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Author Topic: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout  (Read 16472 times)

Brad Young

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Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« on: November 02, 2009, 07:23:22 PM »
I met a young couple in the West Side parking lot Sunday. Spent some time talking about options for the day. They ended up on Machete and finished the day on the Flumes north side. I saw them on their way out.

The young man, Chris, handed me the second to last bolt from Adam's Apple when we met on the trail. Yes, the whole bolt and hanger. He'd come upon it sticking halfway out of the rock and pulled it out the rest of the way with his fingers. It was a cheapo hardware store bolt (3/8"). It protected a crux of the climb and was installed in 1992. I suspect it's seen a ton of hangdogging in those years, and the rock surrounding the bolt was likely loosened. Best as I can reconstruct, it may have barely held a lead fall, leaving it partway out of the rock. Anyone available before December to replace it? Should it be replaced with a glue in (so the same thing doesn't happen in 15 or 20 years?

Let people know that this bolt is missing if you can.
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MUCCI

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #1 on: November 02, 2009, 09:06:06 PM »
I am going to try and schedule a day next week/weekend to drop in from the top to finish Beserker, then the next day do Lichen to lead, when I am there I would be happy to place another Rawl provided it is the appropriate replacement.  I have never used a glue in but would imagine it needs to be placed on a monday to avoid weighting it for 48 hours.

I will let you know when I can make it, and will first scope the hole to see if there are any other options around for placement.

Brad- I got the original topo for Beserker's route from lars!  Way different than what is in the guidebooks.  I will snap a photo and send it to you.

Thank god that bolt didn't pull, that route is badass!
Mucci
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Brad Young

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #2 on: November 02, 2009, 09:24:50 PM »
Josh, I checked out the situation from the top and from Power Tools. The top anchor on Costanoan is well placed to get down to the second pitch anchor (ie, top of second pitch) of Berserker. And to get to the third pitch too.

I will know by Friday (maybe Monday) whether I will be free some of next week to go down there with you.

How's the cough? (I don't have it yet.)
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MUCCI

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #3 on: November 02, 2009, 10:28:27 PM »
Cool info, anchors help out alot! Ha, I will know on friday what the following week looks like. 

It will be sweet to tic this one off, Not a whole lotta bolts to deal with either!

No cough, new truck, heading to the east side WHOOP!
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F4?

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #4 on: November 03, 2009, 07:58:39 AM »
The hardest part of putting in a glue in is drilling the hole.
 
That and not trying to inject the glue at the END of the day when temps start to drop. The glue is temp sensitive. We found that out the hard way on Laval Falls. I talked with Greg some time afterwards and he confirmed the glue can be a PITA.
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squiddo

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #5 on: November 03, 2009, 01:01:11 PM »
Quote from: F4? on November 03, 2009, 07:58:39 AM
The hardest part of putting in a glue in is drilling the hole.
 
That and not trying to inject the glue at the END of the day when temps start to drop. The glue is temp sensitive. We found that out the hard way on Laval Falls. I talked with Greg some time afterwards and he confirmed the glue can be a PITA.


Yes, but we appreciate your labor:-)
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mungeclimber

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #6 on: November 03, 2009, 08:56:39 PM »
Brad, didn't I take a whip on that bolt BITD when a hand hold broke on me?

hrm, nevermind, that second to last would have been too high now that I look at the book.  Maybe 3rd or 4th.

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squiddo

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #7 on: November 03, 2009, 09:09:20 PM »
Quote from: mungeclimber on November 03, 2009, 08:56:39 PM
Brad, didn't I take a whip on that bolt BITD when a hand hold broke on me?

hrm, nevermind, that second to last would have been too high now that I look at the book.  Maybe 3rd or 4th.


Munge, its your fault A**  ;D.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #8 on: November 03, 2009, 09:41:03 PM »
nah, tweren't me

 :)
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Brad Young

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #9 on: November 03, 2009, 09:47:02 PM »
I don't remember Munge falling ever except for the second pitch of Reeds Direct and I only recall that because I caught it on film.
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squiddo

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #10 on: November 03, 2009, 11:18:54 PM »
Quote from: Brad Young on November 03, 2009, 09:47:02 PM
I don't remember Munge falling ever except for the second pitch of Reeds Direct and I only recall that because I caught it on film.

Sweet! Post up please
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mungeclimber

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #11 on: November 03, 2009, 11:24:15 PM »



apparently I was fooling around too much posing....




cuz I fell...




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mungeclimber

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #12 on: November 03, 2009, 11:26:16 PM »
there was a touch of water in the seam I was using to pull up into the upper wide crack section and my last piece was, well, below me.

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squiddo

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #13 on: November 04, 2009, 06:52:52 AM »
do i see ballets and a mullet in that picture?
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F4?

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #14 on: November 04, 2009, 08:15:24 AM »
Yepper, business in front..party in the back!
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squiddo

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #15 on: November 04, 2009, 08:42:41 AM »
Quote from: F4? on November 04, 2009, 08:15:24 AM
Yepper, business in front..party in the back!

funny, looks like a parade ::)

I need to scan up some 80's lycra picts. ON second thought perhaps not
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mungeclimber

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #16 on: November 04, 2009, 09:52:31 AM »
oh no, now you gotz to post em!
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squiddo

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #17 on: November 04, 2009, 10:44:56 AM »
I'll work on scanning
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Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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Brad Young

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #18 on: January 11, 2010, 06:56:28 AM »
OK, the bolt is fixed. I got an email from Bruce Hildenbrand:

"Brad,

someone filed a 'route warning' on the FoP site that the second to last
bolt on Adam's Apple had fallen out. Clint and I went to the Pinnacles
on Saturday to address the problem. I rapped down the route and could
not find the hole! Luckily, I brought the topo out of your new guidebook.
When I consulted the topo I deduced where the bolt hole should be and,
Viola!, there it was."

Bruce and Clint (and Mucci, Bratton, and Mr Mud, plus others) do just incredible work on behalf of others on these bolt issues. Thanks to each of you.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Adam's Apple Bolt Pullout
« Reply #19 on: January 11, 2010, 11:46:44 AM »
Uber and I chatted with Bruce and Clint at the end of the day. Always neat to see them in the Mon.  Anyways, Bruce was really animated about describing trying to find that bolt hole. Pretty much would have been a lost cause...
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