Author Topic: Castle Rock Conditions Thread  (Read 190356 times)

mynameismud

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #20 on: February 22, 2011, 12:14:13 AM »
Did you get it?
Here's to sweat in your eye

Atomizer

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #21 on: February 22, 2011, 08:13:08 AM »
Yup I finally got POD clean on toprope no falls!  But, I took a pretty big whipper when pulling over the lip on Lower North Face, almost decked, went back up, went left instead of towards the last bolt, skipped said bolt, broke foothold off, would have needed a helicopter, did not fall, linked to 2nd pitch of Rocket in My Pocket, and then really enjoyed beer after wards.

mynameismud

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #22 on: February 22, 2011, 09:24:28 AM »
Lower North Face is surprisingly sketch and pumpy for how short it is.  Glad the Heli was not needed.
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Atomizer

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #23 on: February 22, 2011, 09:34:41 AM »
Seems like a common story with climbs that had their glory days as aid climbs.

MUCCI

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #24 on: February 22, 2011, 11:42:00 AM »
WHAT are you guys talking about, freeing the bridwell bolts? or Ranger bolts?

Edit:  Oh snap, I dig it!  Damn, that must have been a puckering experience above the Piton ledge....

Good work.

Atomizer

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #25 on: February 22, 2011, 11:54:49 AM »
This is actually about rescuing my draws off Ranger Bolts after my dejecting loss of drive.  It seems like its time to install some perma-draws on that thing.

mungeclimber

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #26 on: February 22, 2011, 12:16:44 PM »
you need belizzi beta!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #27 on: February 22, 2011, 12:54:52 PM »
The suspense it killing me.  Looking forward to the send so I can relax.

That has been an ongoing project of mine for quite sometime.  Look forward to getting the shoulder straightened out so I can at least give it a go again.

Here's to sweat in your eye

This is actually about rescuing my draws off Ranger Bolts after my dejecting loss of drive.  It seems like its time to install some perma-draws on that thing.
Here's to sweat in your eye

F4?

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #28 on: February 22, 2011, 01:27:45 PM »
Quote
But, I took a pretty big whipper when pulling over the lip on Lower North Face, almost decked, went back up, went left instead of towards the last bolt, skipped said bolt, broke foothold off,

I had always wondered how hard that one was. Short but hard?

POD is always a good gauge. If bad run....pack and head home with tail between legs. If good....spray like no tomorrow!
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mynameismud

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #29 on: February 22, 2011, 01:52:50 PM »
It can be top roped from the anchors. 

It is basically a sustained boulder problem.  Definition of Crimpy.
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F4?

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #30 on: February 22, 2011, 02:20:28 PM »
I can never forget my old partner Scott's spectacular lead fall at the last bolt. It's where you are holding onto the rail or knob and the bolt is right in your face.

Scott gets the draw on the bolt, but then....delimma...too pumped to hold on and pull the rope.....too pumped to go up or down...he trys to pull the rope up twice, each time dropping to rope to hang on to the rail..and then pop he's off for 15ft+!

This was before the days of gyms and he was onsighting POD off the couch!!
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mynameismud

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #31 on: February 22, 2011, 04:36:51 PM »
Isn't the rail on Rocket in my Pocket not Lower North Face
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F4?

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #32 on: February 22, 2011, 06:08:35 PM »
My story is about pod.

Rocket in pocket was another day.....WTF? How is this 10c? The blue guide says 10c! Scott walked it.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #33 on: February 22, 2011, 08:09:32 PM »
take this pinns stuff to another thread. sheesh
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Atomizer

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #34 on: February 22, 2011, 10:21:04 PM »
Lower North Face seemed harder than Rocket in my Pocket, but about the same as POD.  It's sequential and is tricky without chalk and the top bolt is badly located.  I got suckered onto the wrong holds and then ended up on some wet mossed over knobs on the top out.

On another note anybody think there are some dry rocks at Castle Rock. Thinking of heading up tomorrow before the next storm comes through.

mynameismud

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #35 on: February 23, 2011, 06:27:02 AM »
Tomorrow might be better and would give it an extra day to dry out.  We got 4 1/2 inches of rain but then again we are a bit further North.  Castle gets a bit of Protection from Bhutano Ridge.

Might be good.  Stay off the small stuff :)

Kinda miss that place, some good times up there.  Good to see there are those that still leave the rope at home when going there.  Rope on that sandstone is like tits on a mule.

Your vids brought in the nostalgia fairly hard.
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #36 on: February 23, 2011, 09:40:47 AM »
big rounded slopers only, you're solid

if you don't someone else will.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Atomizer

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #37 on: February 23, 2011, 11:13:28 AM »
You don't tell me about the crimps at Castle, I know the story. I am all about the slopes.  Heading up in a hour or so, want to hit El Projecto (the boulder that is incorrectly called Egghead arete or something) and try again what Potter and Sharma say is the hardest problem at Castle.  If anybody is up for it just shout for Atomizer.

squiddo

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #38 on: February 23, 2011, 11:43:04 AM »
This is actually about rescuing my draws off Ranger Bolts after my dejecting loss of drive.  It seems like its time to install some perma-draws on that thing.

Oh man, Brad would love this...as would we all.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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squiddo

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Re: Castle Rock Conditions Thread
« Reply #39 on: February 23, 2011, 11:45:13 AM »

Kinda miss that place, some good times up there.  Good to see there are those that still leave the rope at home when going there.  Rope on that sandstone is like tits on a mule.

 

Someday you can explain this to me..........
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Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber