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Author Topic: Castle Rock Conditions Thread  (Read 159691 times)
Atomizer
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« Reply #40 on: February 23, 2011, 12:22:48 PM »

Good to see there are those that still leave the rope at home when going there.  Rope on that sandstone is like tits on a mule.

I don't understand either.

I take ropes up there and love leading stuff up there sometimes, but I have gotten a little freaked out by the "Glue on Bolts" a few times.  I would hate to see what the shafts of those things look like.  Especially after I replaced some hangers at the Pins the other day and saw what the shaft of a non-stainless rawl bolt looks like after less then ten years.



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squiddo
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« Reply #41 on: February 23, 2011, 12:25:13 PM »

I don't understand either.

I take ropes up there and love leading stuff up there sometimes, but I have gotten a little freaked out by the "Glue on Bolts" a few times.  I would hate to see what the shafts of those things look like.  Especially after I replaced some hangers at the Pins the other day and saw what the shaft of a non-stainless rawl bolt looks like after less then ten years.



Oh man, lets make an old school belay bucket and do some drop tests! I'll bring the sticht plate, knee pads and construction helmet! All kidding aside your story does cause some pause on the thoughts of "what if"....
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« Reply #42 on: February 23, 2011, 12:25:59 PM »

Oh man, Brad would love this...as would we all.

I think Brad would love it, guidebooks would be selling like crazy for the new bay area sport climbing area. All those broken off rubber banded belay cards would add so much color to the area.
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squiddo
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« Reply #43 on: February 23, 2011, 12:27:54 PM »

I think Brad would love it, guidebooks would be selling like crazy for the new bay area sport climbing area. All those broken off rubber banded belay cards would add so much color to the area.

HA, I know this is a major thread drift but you keep hitting the funny bone. Reminds me of a time- 10 years ago- when I ran into a gymbie at the Golidlocks wall at Donner. Had a RACK of belay cards clipped to her side.....must have been one from every gym in the West Coast. Made me feel like asking if she was lead certified. Roll Eyes
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-Anonymous spirited climber
Atomizer
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« Reply #44 on: February 23, 2011, 12:29:05 PM »

Oh man, lets make an old school belay bucket and do some drop tests! I'll bring the sticht plate, knee pads and construction helmet! All kidding aside your story does cause some pause on the thoughts of "what if"....

Maybe we should test out the GriGri 2 also. I am still skeptical.  I feel like I could brake the door off with my bare hands.
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Atomizer
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« Reply #45 on: February 23, 2011, 12:30:21 PM »

i could care less about thread drift, this ain't a Super Taqueria.  This site needs attention.
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squiddo
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« Reply #46 on: February 23, 2011, 12:31:09 PM »

i could care less about thread drift, this ain't a Super Taqueria.  This site needs attention.


This statement just made my week Adam. Well said.
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« Reply #47 on: February 23, 2011, 12:32:41 PM »

Off to Castle to check some conditions (ON TOPIC)
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mynameismud
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« Reply #48 on: February 23, 2011, 12:37:39 PM »

I have climbed with a rope up there.  More and more though I just cannot see it.  Watching, looking at and doing the bouldering there, it is very aesthetic.  The lead and TR not really.

Anymore I just cannot see taking a rope to that place.  It is to much like making a water color of the Mona Lisa.  Why, it doesn't make sense.  

Given the choice between leading and bouldering I will choose leading.  But, not at CRSP.  CRSP is bouldering.
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mynameismud
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« Reply #49 on: February 23, 2011, 12:38:25 PM »

Atomizer take a pic of the

The Problem if you do not mind.  Curious what it looks like.
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #50 on: February 23, 2011, 01:27:00 PM »

Quote
You don't tell me about the crimps at Castle, I know the story. I am all about the slopes.

Then don't ask if there is dry rock at castle. Sheesh.  Huh?  Shit is dry asap with a strong breeze.

fire and post up pics

going to try going up myself later, maybe thurs.
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« Reply #51 on: February 23, 2011, 02:27:40 PM »

Quote
Someday you can explain this to me..........

Which part? The Mule?

The rope and TR is apart of the Castle history. How else can you explain that huge anchor on top of Castle. It's the lead bolts on long standing TR problems....

Yah, it's fun to 4th class some of that stuff.

But seriously, who has soloed the falls route? Charlie?
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squiddo
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« Reply #52 on: February 23, 2011, 02:33:04 PM »

Speaking of CRSP, snow is fully going to be falling on it as soon as Thursday evening...or so the weather people say. reminds me of yerars ago when the road closed and I snowshoed all the way into CRSP and bouldered. I was not happy trying to pull the mantle onto the Spoon while competing with snow/ice.
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« Reply #53 on: February 23, 2011, 02:49:55 PM »

thx for the weather beta squiddo.

what time do you want to leave here with me?  bring a camera, gaiters, and alpine gear.


this shiz is going to be EPIC!


enter on the side road from foothill eh?
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« Reply #54 on: February 23, 2011, 03:42:08 PM »

Don't forget the beer!
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Atomizer
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« Reply #55 on: February 23, 2011, 05:25:40 PM »

Then don't ask if there is dry rock at castle. Sheesh.  Huh?  Shit is dry asap with a strong breeze.

What I meant was that I wouldn't be climbing on crimps today, I know the local eitquette. Normally I would say that 48 hours is enough time to wait before climbing after a storm, but today 90% of the boulders were still very wet and there is still a good amount of snow on the ground and falling/dripping out of the trees. As for the strong breeze, I think it takes more than a strong breeze to melt 5 inches of snow. 

The conditions are pretty bad up there. Many problems that look dry, would start to feel wet after a try. Plus you get that classic wet sandstone feeling, where no matter how much you clean the holds it still feels like there are loose grains of sand on the holds. When you climb on rock in this condition you are essentially breaking sand grains off the holds.  I think it is totally unacceptable to climb in these conditions. Many people think that it is just the crimps that break, but in reality by climbing like this you are improving or dismantling the sloper holds too.

The 10% of the problems that are dry include: Eco Terrorist, Hueco Wall, Domino, and some stuff at Magoos.  To top it off the clouds came in and started to mist as I was leaving. But I did have a nice send of Hueco Wall, so there still is fun to be had. It is so beautiful up there right now, I love the vibrancy that comes out of the moss, lichen, and rock when it is moist like it was today.
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rhyang
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« Reply #56 on: February 23, 2011, 07:24:42 PM »

Snowshoes at CRSP huh .. now that would be interesting  Cool

btw I know it won't be climbable for a long while, but last summer or early fall I noticed a closure sign attached to the anchor bolts on Degeneration (10a, waterfall wall right side), I guess because of the vultures.  I mentioned to the ranger that the vultures were long gone, and he said he would tell the appropriate dept.  Kind of curious about the closure status.
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mynameismud
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« Reply #57 on: February 23, 2011, 07:52:59 PM »

Atomizer,

well said.

Sounds beautiful
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #58 on: February 24, 2011, 10:08:00 AM »

I don't climb hard enough to do that, and whether quantifiably there is a difference between wet sloper crystal breaking and dry sloper crystal breaking has yet to be determined IMHO.

Didn't realize it was 5 inches worth and dripping will ruin a good day every time.

cheers
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squiddo
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« Reply #59 on: February 24, 2011, 10:13:12 AM »

I don't climb hard enough to do that, and whether quantifiably there is a difference between wet sloper crystal breaking and dry sloper crystal breaking has yet to be determined IMHO.

Didn't realize it was 5 inches worth and dripping will ruin a good day every time.

cheers

Yeah Munge, seems like we have some waiting to do.....
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