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Author Topic: Castle Rock Conditions Thread  (Read 131683 times)
mungeclimber
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« on: January 16, 2010, 04:37:37 PM »

Populated with many peoples today 1/16
mostly dry rock - the wind has been blowing up there. A new tree has fallen next to the other fallen tree on PL.

started to sprinkle mid afternoon

Ran into Teddy on the way to Indian Rock. Hung out at Indian Cracks, shot the shit.
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Brad Young
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« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2010, 04:42:34 PM »

Went to Two Mile Bar for the first time. Got the topo and the route descriptions sussed out. Some of those cracks pack a wallop for 25 feet!
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2010, 04:48:53 PM »

really?  first time?

whoa


yeah, some of those cracks are really good!  figured they had to be if Grant bothered with writing em down.

how was the PO?

any snakes?
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Brad Young
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« Reply #3 on: January 16, 2010, 07:18:44 PM »

First time climbing there (I did the prior guidebook work on a wet day). We started out on Super Crack of the Stanislaus:









Then we did several other shorties. The moss in the cracks was little damp, not too bad, but enough to bleed onto the tape!





Sorry for the thread drift.

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Ubergoober
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« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2010, 11:29:20 PM »

Nice, Brad! I've got to check that out sometime.
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SCREWD4LYFE!!
mungeclimber
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« Reply #5 on: February 25, 2010, 12:46:51 AM »

uhm, it's wet up there, but since I ain't sleeping you get a post.

no charge
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skully
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« Reply #6 on: February 25, 2010, 05:16:03 AM »

What a deal..... Cool
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Holy crap! oh, please little hook stay, please stay, that's right you're fine........And  Yes! off THAT manky shit. Whew.
mungeclimber
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« Reply #7 on: November 24, 2010, 07:44:59 PM »

conditions today were sticky icky

cold! Like a Dawn Patrol session.

all the puddle holes on top of magoos had ice almost 1/4" thick.

not a fucking soul up there. all the holds were clean and tacky.

no bugs.

Finished off on The Bank problem down the hill.


seriously though, good stuff. thx Salad for coming out.

will likely be able to do a morning session Friday

forecast

Quote
Tonight: Clear, with a low around 30. Blustery, with a north northeast wind 11 to 14 mph increasing to between 22 and 25 mph. Winds could gust as high as 32 mph.

Thanksgiving Day: Sunny, with a high near 42. East northeast wind between 5 and 13 mph.

Thursday Night: Clear, with a low around 34. East wind at 5 mph becoming south.

Friday: Sunny, with a high near 46. Calm wind.

Friday Night: Mostly cloudy, with a low around 37. Southwest wind around 5 mph.

Saturday: Rain, mainly before 4pm. High near 42. Chance of precipitation is 80%.

Saturday Night: A 30 percent chance of showers, mainly before 10pm. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 34.

Sunday: Partly sunny, with a high near 39.

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mynameismud
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« Reply #8 on: November 24, 2010, 08:21:10 PM »

High near 39...
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« Reply #9 on: November 25, 2010, 07:38:17 PM »

PG is warmer than that.
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« Reply #10 on: February 20, 2011, 09:39:35 AM »

Judging by the pics I saw on Crackbook this morning, wet and snow-covered... Ideal condition, yo!
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« Reply #11 on: February 20, 2011, 07:16:07 PM »

Anybody got some ice tools I can borrow, Castle Rock Falls is going to be epic tomorrow!
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mynameismud
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« Reply #12 on: February 20, 2011, 07:49:10 PM »

We got over 4 inches of rain from this last storm.  The falls should be running well. 

Wet suit and snorkel!
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Atomizer
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« Reply #13 on: February 20, 2011, 07:58:48 PM »

It sure seems like it is going to be pretty cold up there tonight.  You don't think it is going to be ice?

But that's just talk, I'm going to the Pins tomorrow.  I feel like a junkie right now, having withdrawals, and I really need to get high!

I am so serious I shaved my beard, bought a hold brush, and don't plan on wearing underwear, all in the name of sending.
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mynameismud
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« Reply #14 on: February 20, 2011, 08:17:24 PM »

The real key is the lace thong
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Atomizer
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« Reply #15 on: February 20, 2011, 08:42:50 PM »

Damn, I don't have one.  I better head out to the bars and see if I can booty one of those tonight.
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mynameismud
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« Reply #16 on: February 20, 2011, 08:57:55 PM »

booty one tonight or

booty one on sight?
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« Reply #17 on: February 21, 2011, 09:44:54 AM »

Reality...the weather sucks.

Go to the gym.
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mynameismud
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« Reply #18 on: February 21, 2011, 11:15:10 AM »

NOt
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« Reply #19 on: February 21, 2011, 10:39:40 PM »

Whats all this talk about bad weather? I Took advantage of some nice sun at the pins today.
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mynameismud
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« Reply #20 on: February 22, 2011, 12:14:13 AM »

Did you get it?
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« Reply #21 on: February 22, 2011, 08:13:08 AM »

Yup I finally got POD clean on toprope no falls!  But, I took a pretty big whipper when pulling over the lip on Lower North Face, almost decked, went back up, went left instead of towards the last bolt, skipped said bolt, broke foothold off, would have needed a helicopter, did not fall, linked to 2nd pitch of Rocket in My Pocket, and then really enjoyed beer after wards.
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« Reply #22 on: February 22, 2011, 09:24:28 AM »

Lower North Face is surprisingly sketch and pumpy for how short it is.  Glad the Heli was not needed.
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« Reply #23 on: February 22, 2011, 09:34:41 AM »

Seems like a common story with climbs that had their glory days as aid climbs.
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MUCCI
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« Reply #24 on: February 22, 2011, 11:42:00 AM »

WHAT are you guys talking about, freeing the bridwell bolts? or Ranger bolts?

Edit:  Oh snap, I dig it!  Damn, that must have been a puckering experience above the Piton ledge....

Good work.
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« Reply #25 on: February 22, 2011, 11:54:49 AM »

This is actually about rescuing my draws off Ranger Bolts after my dejecting loss of drive.  It seems like its time to install some perma-draws on that thing.
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #26 on: February 22, 2011, 12:16:44 PM »

you need belizzi beta!
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mynameismud
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« Reply #27 on: February 22, 2011, 12:54:52 PM »

The suspense it killing me.  Looking forward to the send so I can relax.

That has been an ongoing project of mine for quite sometime.  Look forward to getting the shoulder straightened out so I can at least give it a go again.

Here's to sweat in your eye

This is actually about rescuing my draws off Ranger Bolts after my dejecting loss of drive.  It seems like its time to install some perma-draws on that thing.
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« Reply #28 on: February 22, 2011, 01:27:45 PM »

Quote
But, I took a pretty big whipper when pulling over the lip on Lower North Face, almost decked, went back up, went left instead of towards the last bolt, skipped said bolt, broke foothold off,

I had always wondered how hard that one was. Short but hard?

POD is always a good gauge. If bad run....pack and head home with tail between legs. If good....spray like no tomorrow!
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mynameismud
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« Reply #29 on: February 22, 2011, 01:52:50 PM »

It can be top roped from the anchors. 

It is basically a sustained boulder problem.  Definition of Crimpy.
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« Reply #30 on: February 22, 2011, 02:20:28 PM »

I can never forget my old partner Scott's spectacular lead fall at the last bolt. It's where you are holding onto the rail or knob and the bolt is right in your face.

Scott gets the draw on the bolt, but then....delimma...too pumped to hold on and pull the rope.....too pumped to go up or down...he trys to pull the rope up twice, each time dropping to rope to hang on to the rail..and then pop he's off for 15ft+!

This was before the days of gyms and he was onsighting POD off the couch!!
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mynameismud
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« Reply #31 on: February 22, 2011, 04:36:51 PM »

Isn't the rail on Rocket in my Pocket not Lower North Face
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« Reply #32 on: February 22, 2011, 06:08:35 PM »

My story is about pod.

Rocket in pocket was another day.....WTF? How is this 10c? The blue guide says 10c! Scott walked it.
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #33 on: February 22, 2011, 08:09:32 PM »

take this pinns stuff to another thread. sheesh
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« Reply #34 on: February 22, 2011, 10:21:04 PM »

Lower North Face seemed harder than Rocket in my Pocket, but about the same as POD.  It's sequential and is tricky without chalk and the top bolt is badly located.  I got suckered onto the wrong holds and then ended up on some wet mossed over knobs on the top out.

On another note anybody think there are some dry rocks at Castle Rock. Thinking of heading up tomorrow before the next storm comes through.
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« Reply #35 on: February 23, 2011, 06:27:02 AM »

Tomorrow might be better and would give it an extra day to dry out.  We got 4 1/2 inches of rain but then again we are a bit further North.  Castle gets a bit of Protection from Bhutano Ridge.

Might be good.  Stay off the small stuff Smiley

Kinda miss that place, some good times up there.  Good to see there are those that still leave the rope at home when going there.  Rope on that sandstone is like tits on a mule.

Your vids brought in the nostalgia fairly hard.
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #36 on: February 23, 2011, 09:40:47 AM »

big rounded slopers only, you're solid

if you don't someone else will.
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« Reply #37 on: February 23, 2011, 11:13:28 AM »

You don't tell me about the crimps at Castle, I know the story. I am all about the slopes.  Heading up in a hour or so, want to hit El Projecto (the boulder that is incorrectly called Egghead arete or something) and try again what Potter and Sharma say is the hardest problem at Castle.  If anybody is up for it just shout for Atomizer.
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squiddo
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« Reply #38 on: February 23, 2011, 11:43:04 AM »

This is actually about rescuing my draws off Ranger Bolts after my dejecting loss of drive.  It seems like its time to install some perma-draws on that thing.

Oh man, Brad would love this...as would we all.
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squiddo
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« Reply #39 on: February 23, 2011, 11:45:13 AM »


Kinda miss that place, some good times up there.  Good to see there are those that still leave the rope at home when going there.  Rope on that sandstone is like tits on a mule.

 

Someday you can explain this to me..........
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« Reply #40 on: February 23, 2011, 12:22:48 PM »

Good to see there are those that still leave the rope at home when going there.  Rope on that sandstone is like tits on a mule.

I don't understand either.

I take ropes up there and love leading stuff up there sometimes, but I have gotten a little freaked out by the "Glue on Bolts" a few times.  I would hate to see what the shafts of those things look like.  Especially after I replaced some hangers at the Pins the other day and saw what the shaft of a non-stainless rawl bolt looks like after less then ten years.



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squiddo
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« Reply #41 on: February 23, 2011, 12:25:13 PM »

I don't understand either.

I take ropes up there and love leading stuff up there sometimes, but I have gotten a little freaked out by the "Glue on Bolts" a few times.  I would hate to see what the shafts of those things look like.  Especially after I replaced some hangers at the Pins the other day and saw what the shaft of a non-stainless rawl bolt looks like after less then ten years.



Oh man, lets make an old school belay bucket and do some drop tests! I'll bring the sticht plate, knee pads and construction helmet! All kidding aside your story does cause some pause on the thoughts of "what if"....
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« Reply #42 on: February 23, 2011, 12:25:59 PM »

Oh man, Brad would love this...as would we all.

I think Brad would love it, guidebooks would be selling like crazy for the new bay area sport climbing area. All those broken off rubber banded belay cards would add so much color to the area.
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squiddo
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« Reply #43 on: February 23, 2011, 12:27:54 PM »

I think Brad would love it, guidebooks would be selling like crazy for the new bay area sport climbing area. All those broken off rubber banded belay cards would add so much color to the area.

HA, I know this is a major thread drift but you keep hitting the funny bone. Reminds me of a time- 10 years ago- when I ran into a gymbie at the Golidlocks wall at Donner. Had a RACK of belay cards clipped to her side.....must have been one from every gym in the West Coast. Made me feel like asking if she was lead certified. Roll Eyes
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« Reply #44 on: February 23, 2011, 12:29:05 PM »

Oh man, lets make an old school belay bucket and do some drop tests! I'll bring the sticht plate, knee pads and construction helmet! All kidding aside your story does cause some pause on the thoughts of "what if"....

Maybe we should test out the GriGri 2 also. I am still skeptical.  I feel like I could brake the door off with my bare hands.
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« Reply #45 on: February 23, 2011, 12:30:21 PM »

i could care less about thread drift, this ain't a Super Taqueria.  This site needs attention.
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squiddo
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« Reply #46 on: February 23, 2011, 12:31:09 PM »

i could care less about thread drift, this ain't a Super Taqueria.  This site needs attention.


This statement just made my week Adam. Well said.
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« Reply #47 on: February 23, 2011, 12:32:41 PM »

Off to Castle to check some conditions (ON TOPIC)
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mynameismud
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« Reply #48 on: February 23, 2011, 12:37:39 PM »

I have climbed with a rope up there.  More and more though I just cannot see it.  Watching, looking at and doing the bouldering there, it is very aesthetic.  The lead and TR not really.

Anymore I just cannot see taking a rope to that place.  It is to much like making a water color of the Mona Lisa.  Why, it doesn't make sense.  

Given the choice between leading and bouldering I will choose leading.  But, not at CRSP.  CRSP is bouldering.
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mynameismud
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« Reply #49 on: February 23, 2011, 12:38:25 PM »

Atomizer take a pic of the

The Problem if you do not mind.  Curious what it looks like.
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #50 on: February 23, 2011, 01:27:00 PM »

Quote
You don't tell me about the crimps at Castle, I know the story. I am all about the slopes.

Then don't ask if there is dry rock at castle. Sheesh.  Huh?  Shit is dry asap with a strong breeze.

fire and post up pics

going to try going up myself later, maybe thurs.
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« Reply #51 on: February 23, 2011, 02:27:40 PM »

Quote
Someday you can explain this to me..........

Which part? The Mule?

The rope and TR is apart of the Castle history. How else can you explain that huge anchor on top of Castle. It's the lead bolts on long standing TR problems....

Yah, it's fun to 4th class some of that stuff.

But seriously, who has soloed the falls route? Charlie?
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« Reply #52 on: February 23, 2011, 02:33:04 PM »

Speaking of CRSP, snow is fully going to be falling on it as soon as Thursday evening...or so the weather people say. reminds me of yerars ago when the road closed and I snowshoed all the way into CRSP and bouldered. I was not happy trying to pull the mantle onto the Spoon while competing with snow/ice.
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« Reply #53 on: February 23, 2011, 02:49:55 PM »

thx for the weather beta squiddo.

what time do you want to leave here with me?  bring a camera, gaiters, and alpine gear.


this shiz is going to be EPIC!


enter on the side road from foothill eh?
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« Reply #54 on: February 23, 2011, 03:42:08 PM »

Don't forget the beer!
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« Reply #55 on: February 23, 2011, 05:25:40 PM »

Then don't ask if there is dry rock at castle. Sheesh.  Huh?  Shit is dry asap with a strong breeze.

What I meant was that I wouldn't be climbing on crimps today, I know the local eitquette. Normally I would say that 48 hours is enough time to wait before climbing after a storm, but today 90% of the boulders were still very wet and there is still a good amount of snow on the ground and falling/dripping out of the trees. As for the strong breeze, I think it takes more than a strong breeze to melt 5 inches of snow. 

The conditions are pretty bad up there. Many problems that look dry, would start to feel wet after a try. Plus you get that classic wet sandstone feeling, where no matter how much you clean the holds it still feels like there are loose grains of sand on the holds. When you climb on rock in this condition you are essentially breaking sand grains off the holds.  I think it is totally unacceptable to climb in these conditions. Many people think that it is just the crimps that break, but in reality by climbing like this you are improving or dismantling the sloper holds too.

The 10% of the problems that are dry include: Eco Terrorist, Hueco Wall, Domino, and some stuff at Magoos.  To top it off the clouds came in and started to mist as I was leaving. But I did have a nice send of Hueco Wall, so there still is fun to be had. It is so beautiful up there right now, I love the vibrancy that comes out of the moss, lichen, and rock when it is moist like it was today.
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« Reply #56 on: February 23, 2011, 07:24:42 PM »

Snowshoes at CRSP huh .. now that would be interesting  Cool

btw I know it won't be climbable for a long while, but last summer or early fall I noticed a closure sign attached to the anchor bolts on Degeneration (10a, waterfall wall right side), I guess because of the vultures.  I mentioned to the ranger that the vultures were long gone, and he said he would tell the appropriate dept.  Kind of curious about the closure status.
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« Reply #57 on: February 23, 2011, 07:52:59 PM »

Atomizer,

well said.

Sounds beautiful
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« Reply #58 on: February 24, 2011, 10:08:00 AM »

I don't climb hard enough to do that, and whether quantifiably there is a difference between wet sloper crystal breaking and dry sloper crystal breaking has yet to be determined IMHO.

Didn't realize it was 5 inches worth and dripping will ruin a good day every time.

cheers
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« Reply #59 on: February 24, 2011, 10:13:12 AM »

I don't climb hard enough to do that, and whether quantifiably there is a difference between wet sloper crystal breaking and dry sloper crystal breaking has yet to be determined IMHO.

Didn't realize it was 5 inches worth and dripping will ruin a good day every time.

cheers

Yeah Munge, seems like we have some waiting to do.....
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« Reply #60 on: February 24, 2011, 11:08:26 AM »

I don't climb hard enough to do that, and whether quantifiably there is a difference between wet sloper crystal breaking and dry sloper crystal breaking has yet to be determined IMHO.
I don't think it is a question of how hard you climb. If sand is coming off in your hands you are a vandal and eco terrorist.  Yesterday I felt the same thing happening on both v1 and v8.  If you don't climb hard, you are probably over-griping and pulling even more sand off. But as a matter of fact, I never feel sand coming off in my hands when climbing on fully dry holds. But in the larger scheme of things all those boulders are just going to turn to sand in time and end up in front of the boardwalk, where more people will be able to enjoy them.

I guess its off to PG Sunnyvale this afternoon.
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« Reply #61 on: March 01, 2011, 08:27:45 AM »

Conditions anyone? Thinking of heading up this morning and I don't want a repeat of last week.
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« Reply #62 on: March 01, 2011, 09:06:28 AM »

Sitting at my desk here at work it looks beautiful out.

If you go post pics so we can live vicariously through your efforts.
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« Reply #63 on: March 01, 2011, 10:58:01 AM »

Doesn't look like I will make it up today.  I am going to relocate the pile of mulch instead then head off to make the raviolis with Angelili.
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« Reply #64 on: February 21, 2015, 08:37:46 PM »

Perfect conditions today. Not super tacky, but very pleasant. No bugs.
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« Reply #65 on: July 20, 2016, 07:59:48 AM »

71F at 5pm yesterday.
No breeze to speak of.
Skeets were out, not horrible.
No black gnats.
Good session with the Santa Cruz contingent
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« Reply #66 on: July 27, 2016, 05:23:52 AM »

Damn it was warm last evening. CRSP, where Munge can show you a pitch of climbing compressed into an 9x5ft traverse.
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« Reply #67 on: July 27, 2016, 09:02:52 AM »

Soberanes fire really made the evening smokey without the benefits of any psychoactive aspect.

#wheezing
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« Reply #68 on: August 27, 2016, 07:28:54 AM »

Harry and the boys, possibly Aaron, myself and others are shooting for 8:15ish  Sunday morning at the hwy parking.  Smiley

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« Reply #69 on: August 27, 2016, 06:44:05 PM »

Harry and the boys, possibly Aaron, myself and others are shooting for 8:15ish  Sunday morning at the hwy parking.  Smiley

 Puke
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« Reply #70 on: August 27, 2016, 07:35:38 PM »

...or join JC for some frying fun in the sun;D

Next time.
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« Reply #71 on: August 27, 2016, 07:41:44 PM »

...or join JC for some frying fun in the sun;D

Next time.

Ha yep just my thought. Love to clink, kid duty, it would be me chasing the 3 year old in circles. Had fun!
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« Reply #72 on: August 27, 2016, 08:24:03 PM »

...or join JC for some frying fun in the sun;D

Next time.

It was only 89 today. Another perfect summer day with fog early. Snooze you lose Yeti breath.
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« Reply #73 on: August 28, 2016, 05:45:41 AM »

Quote
Another perfect summer day with fog early. Snooze you lose Yeti breath.

Fog Early? One of your neanderthal nicknames?
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« Reply #74 on: August 28, 2016, 06:54:41 AM »

Fog Early? One of your neanderthal nicknames?

That's weak. I guess that is what happens when you don't climb at Pinnacles.
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« Reply #75 on: August 28, 2016, 05:29:46 PM »

Great crew today!
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« Reply #76 on: February 10, 2017, 08:42:58 PM »

Uh, so you may have to go around for Castle Sessions now. Ooofa
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« Reply #77 on: April 04, 2017, 09:16:20 PM »

Road signs on 35 south from the 9/35 junction indicate 'local traffic only' but that just means your going to a local destination and not through to hwy 17.

Castle conditions were prime last night. No skeets yet. Some gnats, but barely notice them. Cool and slight breeze. Stone temps were cool to the touch and tacky.
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