Author Topic: RedRock '10  (Read 20304 times)

F4?

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RedRock '10
« on: April 16, 2010, 08:01:14 AM »


Squiddo on Y2k




A guide from Bishop on the Y2k money pitch...5.8 all on dessert patina plates. Way cool and super windy. Luckily, he was able to help us with our ropes later on.


The next day it was on to Unimpeachable groping. 6 pitches of .10 climbing. It was alot like Levittation29, but a full grade easier...still pummpy & F-ing cold! Not too many pictures since it would have been bad form to have taken my hand of the brake...

1st pitch...


maybe the 2nd pitch





now back to work
I'm not worthy.

mungeclimber

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2010, 08:31:35 AM »
solid
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2010, 08:43:10 AM »
Perfect timing for the trip report. I'm heading out Wednesday for a week there with Bill. Big tick list, starting with Epinepherine and routes on Black Velvet. Your photos are just the right inpiration.

squiddo

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2010, 08:48:24 AM »
Perfect timing for the trip report. I'm heading out Wednesday for a week there with Bill. Big tick list, starting with Epinepherine and routes on Black Velvet. Your photos are just the right inpiration.

yeah, REALLY want to get back out there for Epinepherine and other. Real bad......plenty to do
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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F4?

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2010, 08:51:01 AM »
Brad, do yourself a favor..bring a belay seat for the Black Velvet routes.

Perfect time of the year for Epi. Still on the list.
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squiddo

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #5 on: April 16, 2010, 08:55:18 AM »
more inspiration:

top of p1 for Y2k...about the crux roof and at the bolt on the crux face move:



Looking down the 2nd pitch of Unimpeachable G:



The 4th pitch:


And the 6th pitch of the same route:

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

F4?

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #6 on: April 16, 2010, 09:01:16 AM »
That does it! I'm buying a new camera. Squiddo, yours have much better color.
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squiddo

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #7 on: April 16, 2010, 09:06:21 AM »
yeah right...you've been saying that for years.  ;D
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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mynameismud

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #8 on: April 16, 2010, 09:23:14 AM »
The only route there that I have not done and really want to do is Rock Warrior
Here's to sweat in your eye

squiddo

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #9 on: April 16, 2010, 09:58:49 AM »
The only route there that I have not done and really want to do is Rock Warrior


That Route looks amazing. F4 and I got to chatting on Geronimo with Joanne Urioste.....she recommended some obscure classics.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

Brad Young

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #10 on: April 16, 2010, 10:08:38 AM »
Bill did Rock Warrior last year and wants to repeat it, so I may have no choice this trip....

I may climb seven days and get six roues done. But all we're planning is mutipitch, 5.10, three star classics.

squiddo

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #11 on: April 16, 2010, 10:09:28 AM »
Bill did Rock Warrior last year and wants to repeat it, so I may have no choice this trip....

I may climb seven days and get six roues done. But all we're planning is mutipitch, 5.10, three star classics.

Sounds like a great trip. Have fun and be safe. Take loads of pictures too.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

Brad Young

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #12 on: April 16, 2010, 10:21:23 AM »
It's funny about the photos. Bill and I have been taking week-long climbing trips together since the late 1990s. So I have tons of head shots and butt shots of him. And on longer routes we get moving so fast that I often don't even take a camera. We'll see.

We're going to camp in the national forest above RR, which, in my experience is far superior to the slum/camp set aside for climbers (if it is warm enough).



squiddo

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #13 on: April 16, 2010, 10:27:19 AM »
It's funny about the photos. Bill and I have been taking week-long climbing trips together since the late 1990s. So I have tons of head shots and butt shots of him. And on longer routes we get moving so fast that I often don't even take a camera. We'll see.


Brad- HA, funny thing. I have 10+ years of these type of images organized into photo books from my youth. Seriously though, I have a sweet ass but not that sweet. My wife pulled all of these out and arraigned them on a wall for a recent event. Only later did I note one displayed particularly well was one of me and 3 pals on top of Manure Pile showing the moon to the camera- if you catch my drift.


We're going to camp in the national forest above RR, which, in my experience is far superior to the slum/camp set aside for climbers (if it is warm enough).


Never done that....I might check it out next time. Anything is better than Afghanistan. I do miss the old BLM land site across the street from the Gypsum mine.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

F4?

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #14 on: April 16, 2010, 10:53:06 AM »
Quote
Never done that....I might check it out next time. Anything is better than Afghanistan. I do miss the old BLM land site across the street from the Gypsum mine.

We camped once at Afghanistan, just to know what it's like to camp. After that...I crash at my relatives. Squiddo likes it so much he always sleeps in until 8am.
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squiddo

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #15 on: April 16, 2010, 10:54:57 AM »
We camped once at Afghanistan, just to know what it's like to camp. After that...I crash at my relatives. Squiddo likes it so much he always sleeps in until 8am.

yes, and when you aren't there (which is surprising I've been to RR more without you than with  ;D) i prefer Arizona Charlies....what a dump.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

mungeclimber

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #16 on: April 16, 2010, 11:13:06 AM »
second the AZ Charlies as a smoke infested hell hole.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #17 on: April 16, 2010, 11:16:32 AM »
Since Bill works at Tioga Pass Resort,and they've been closing most winters, he has six months off per year. He travels the whole west, climbing, hiking and living out of his truck. This means he's checked out just about every climbing venue thouroughly. He knows where you can camp for free, where you can camp for views, where you can camp for warmth; he has it all down. And he can usually get there a day or two before me to make sure we get a site. The camping up in the national forest at Red Rocks is gorgeous (similar to up above the Owens River Gorge). And quiet and free. It's also as close to the north end of the climbing as the ghetto camping is to the south end.

You really should try it out.

mungeclimber

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #18 on: April 16, 2010, 11:46:23 AM »
is the beta online somewheres?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: RedRock '10
« Reply #19 on: April 16, 2010, 11:52:55 AM »
Yeah, but the access code is only known to a few 8)