Author Topic: New Route on Balconies (Read 13598 times)

The Big · « **on:** March 20, 2006, 09:04:49 AM »

From the base of the chimney that is down and left of Gary and Phylis's Headwall climb out left from the tree. Then up, up and away.

Drop Zone 5.7 - mudworm Xi, Erik Mr Mud, Robert Behrens. 7x

mudworm put in her first two bolts. The second one from stance.

The Big · « **Reply #1 on:** March 20, 2006, 10:27:57 AM »

Oopps dam that title should read Machete. Bet I got your attention though.

mudworm · « **Reply #2 on:** March 20, 2006, 10:36:15 AM »

Balconies? I wish. At least we would have been in the sun since the morning.

The route is on Machete.

And Rob and Erik B also improved some other route(s) there. I'm not sure about the details.

mudworm · « **Reply #3 on:** March 20, 2006, 10:40:24 AM »

Guess my sore wrist really slowed down my typing.

Oh here is a hearty "THANK YOU!" to all you who have placed bolts before. THANK YOU!

I now have a new appreciation to what "placing bolts from stance" means. Insane is the word.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #4 on:** March 20, 2006, 10:40:55 AM »

words of warning, still some looseness on it, but nice and long. Not a sport climb, but you probably won't die on it either.

There are NEW anchors placed by Bruce H (ASCA stamped) at the base of these two climbs (Drop Zone and Redline). Mr Mud thinks the tree is fine. I'm not opposed to the anchors and chains.

bolt added to Redline to reduce total runout distance (FA party, approved)

2nd bolt on Gary and Phyllis Headwall replaced with 3/8" by 3" Rawl/Powers expansion bolt, with great effort I might add by myself and F4?. Old bolt was actually pretty good for sticking out of the rock about 1/4", old hanger was suspect aluminum and was a spinner at a tricky clip.

NEVER place 3/8 compression bolts. As Greg Barnes has noted before, it often results in cratering around the hole and is difficult to replace over time.

salad · « **Reply #5 on:** March 20, 2006, 10:50:28 AM »

where was the bolt placed on redline? I dont recall giving my ok, unless it was that last 150 foot runout.

please elaborate on the name drop zone? hopefully the first bolt will allow a tiney ankle biter on the deck for full effect.

F4? · « **Reply #6 on:** March 20, 2006, 10:51:47 AM »

Replacing the 2nd bolt helped the Gary and Phyllis route, the clip was pretty darn tricky since you had to pull the right draw with a narrow gate. If you didn't, you wouldn't make the clip.

The remaining bolts are tiny 1/4ers (they have a hex head) & the top anchors need some work (chains to be added). All in all it's a great route and the runout to the anchors is not that bad.

I'll replace the top anchors next time and add some chains.

Next Saturday??

mudworm · « **Reply #7 on:** March 20, 2006, 11:12:43 AM »

Quote from: "cock"

please elaborate on the name drop zone? hopefully the first bolt will allow a tiney ankle biter on the deck for full effect.

I didn't come up with the name, but thought the name was appropriate. Your belayer is in your (and Redline's) drop zone after you clip the last bolt.

salad · « **Reply #8 on:** March 20, 2006, 12:09:55 PM »

worm, there might be a little more the name... ask munge...

mungeclimber · « **Reply #9 on:** March 20, 2006, 12:46:13 PM »

Quote from: "cock"

worm, there might be a little more the name... ask munge...

I'd feel really poopy about giving up your secrets my friend.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #10 on:** March 20, 2006, 12:51:21 PM »

Quote from: "cock"

where was the bolt placed on redline? I dont recall giving my ok, unless it was that last 150 foot runout.

It's about 10-13' above the last bolt, right before the lip just before where it eases back to easy 5th class. I wanted it higher, but an upper bolt would be mostly for showing what direction the climber should go to find the anchor. Apparently it's so well camou'd that Mudworm couldn't find it.

F4? · « **Reply #11 on:** March 20, 2006, 01:21:21 PM »

And what is up with the top anchors for Redline, Fullthrottle & Drop Zone? Placed back in a dish. I scrambled around up there for 10 min. Were you guys on crack when you placed the anchors? :roll:

Any self respecting sport route establisher would place the anchors to where they would be seen. :roll:

At least one bolt would give one a general sense of direction to go.

salad · « **Reply #12 on:** March 20, 2006, 01:45:16 PM »

factor, maybe you should stick to castle rock, either that or go to europe where they paint arrows on the rock to help climbers find their way.

mudworm · « **Reply #13 on:** March 20, 2006, 01:45:31 PM »

Quote from: "F4?"

... Any self respecting sport route establisher would place the anchors to where they would be seen. :roll: ...

Munge said those were not sport climbs.

salad · « **Reply #14 on:** March 20, 2006, 01:46:44 PM »

also, if you decide drop zone isnt a good name, let me throw "Sal's Monsterous Steamer" in the hat.

BTW, what ever happened to that sucker?!?!?!

Mr Mud?

?

The Big · « **Reply #15 on:** March 20, 2006, 03:39:17 PM »

I didn't have anything to do with that shit.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #16 on:** March 20, 2006, 07:07:22 PM »

mysterious for SURE

Jody Langford · « **Reply #17 on:** March 20, 2006, 09:52:58 PM »

Quote

Apparently it's so well camou'd that Mudworm couldn't find it.

Why do we camo hangers that can't be seen by anybody but climbers anyway?

mungeclimber · « **Reply #18 on:** March 21, 2006, 12:24:05 PM »

well, on the camou thing, this is on Machete facing toward the trail.

I figure if one can see the old tat slings, then anything metal will be visible too, if the sun hits it.

So, in my goal to gridbolt machete, i'm being ethically pure in camo'ing.

F4? · « **Reply #19 on:** March 23, 2006, 12:58:59 PM »

Hey Cock,

I'll stick with routes at the Pinnacles. But speaking of climbing in europe...isn't Mr Mud heading there soon? Do you think he'll catch the sport climbing fever??

News:

Author Topic: New Route on Balconies (Read 13598 times)