Feather Canyon

[mynameismud]

Wow, this thread was pulled up from 12 years ago.  Very nice

[looks easy from here]

Thanks Noal. I'll probably just foist it off on one of my buddies with the excuse I'm carrying the hardware. 

And while I'm here pestering people for beta, MP says to approach from the west side, but it looks like Bear Gulch parking up Condor Gulch Trail is much shorter with less elevation gain. Is there something I'm missing, or is MP wrong?

[squiddo]

I’ve only done it from the East. That said, the route does end high enough on the HP trail you could start from the West.

Have fun.

[NOAL]

Do it from the East. This way you can scope out where the start of the route is from a far away.  Stash your packs when you leave the Condor Gulch trail.

Also if you come from the West you have to hike all the way up to the High Peaks and up the Tunnel  switchbacks. Then you have to scramble down the gully and around the base, climb the route, and hike back out the whole trail.  It's a lot more hiking.

I have a question for Brad.  Feather Canyon is not in the Rubine guide. Prior to the 2007 guidebook was it an unreported route? 

[JC w KC redux]

I have a question for Brad.  Feather Canyon is not in the Rubine guide. Prior to the 2007 guidebook was it an unreported route?

Feather Canyon is in the Richards guidebook. Published November 1974.

[F4?]

East side
Go light, small packs to carry on the route or none.

Enjoy the route.

Take a pause on the 1st pitch, the 1st bolt was added after the route was established....different skills from different times.

[NOAL]

  Feather Canyon is in the Richards guidebook. Published November 1974.

Wonder why Rubine did not put it in the guide?

[JC w KC redux]

Wonder why Rubine did not put it in the guide?

Not sure. Gagner's has it and he left lots of stuff out.

[Brad Young]

Feather Canyon is in Rubine’s book. He just put it in a weird location. I can look it up after I get home. But from memory he put it in with Condor Gulch routes?

[Brad Young]

If I remember correctly he also gave it one star?

[looks easy from here]

Thanks again.

Also if you come from the West you have to hike all the way up to the High Peaks and up the Tunnel  switchbacks. Then you have to scramble down the gully and around the base, climb the route, and hike back out the whole trail.  It's a lot more hiking.

Yeah, that's exactly what I was thinking and why I was confused that they posted the approach that way..

[Brad Young]

Yep, page 196 of the 1995 Rubine guidebook. And since he calls the route "H&L Dome - Feather Canyon" it's not where one would expect it in the index.

But nope, my memory was wrong as to where he put it. It's in with other High Peaks stuff. And he gave it no stars. None.

I wonder how many times he did the route 

[Brad Young]

And Shane, I can't find your email address although I swear I've got it somewhere. If you'll email me I'll send you back the description of Feather Canyon from the new guidebook text.

Email me at mtnyoung at gee mail dot com.

[JC w KC redux]

I didn't look at Rubine's book.

[clink]

 Guidebook writers, at times, might be desperate enough to sacrifice notes when Mother Nature bellows, creating gaps in the record. Really good guidebook writers always carry a fixed pin.

[NOAL]

I found Feather Canyon in my 2nd edition Rubine guide after all.  It is listed under High Peaks as a route on H&L.  It is not listed in the index or the route list of all the 5.8s  in the back of the book.  He gives it no stars.

It is also described as a 6 pitch route.  1st pitch is the big chimney with the chockstone. All the stuff before that is described as "the approach chimney"  I guess we share the same view as what constitutes a pitch.

[looks easy from here]

Well, we started too late, moved too slowly and brought too much stuff, so we only made it to the top of pitch 3. But everyone had fun and made it out safely, so it was a successful day. We all got to climb the awesome p3 slot canyon, and rapping back down into it was a cool, novel experience. We're planning on going back better informed and better equipped in late spring. I wouldn't have minded having a #2 C4 to protect the upper moves of the p1 chimney, though that would have occupied a key hand pocket, maybe making it a little harder. I was also suffering from low mojo yesterday, for unclear reasons, so next time I'm there I'll probably be having a better day and might float up it without feeling the need for the pro.

[Brad Young]

I've never seen Feather Canyon and H and L Dome NOT close for raptor nesting. Closures kick in in mid January.

I don't think you'll be able to get on it in late spring.

[looks easy from here]

Forgot about that detail. Looks like it'll be near the top of the list for fall '23 objectives.

[F4?]

P3, you had done the chute after the chimney?
It’s after the chute it climbs fast, unless you bring beer and enjoy the views.

Yes, a #2 Camelot on the 2nd pitch does help calm the nerves.