Author Topic: East side on Tuesday ?  (Read 45720 times)

rhyang

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East side on Tuesday ?
« on: December 26, 2010, 01:17:24 PM »
Forecast is for a few good days, no rain until Tuesday night.  Usual suspects out of town.  Willing to lead 5.8-5.9, follow harder.  Have rack, rope, can carpool from the south bay.  PM or email if interested.

-Rob

squiddo

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #1 on: December 26, 2010, 04:12:18 PM »
PM sent
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Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #2 on: December 26, 2010, 04:39:48 PM »
Tempting...I'll bring James.

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rhyang

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #3 on: December 28, 2010, 06:58:20 PM »
Got some fun climbing in today before the rain (thank you, national weather service :) )

Squiddo warming up on First Sister - Lost Sister (5.7)


Gertie's Pinnacle and the Hatchet


Gertie's - SW Face Right (5.8 ) -- my turn.

(also did the 7 and 10a next to it, err maybe 10b now that I pulled a hold off  ;D )

Tiburcio's X and Bear Gulch Reservoir


Finished out the day on Coyote Ugly (5.9) -- my first time leading it !

This hardened mud stuff is growing on me .. full set here.


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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #4 on: December 28, 2010, 08:50:46 PM »
Squiddo, all black os so 90's
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squiddo

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #5 on: December 28, 2010, 10:01:54 PM »
Squiddo, all black os so 90's


Sorry E, were you saying something? I couldn't tell what with the iPad spelling error and all.......
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Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #6 on: December 29, 2010, 08:30:58 AM »
Just saying your fashion sense of all black is a bit out dated.
80s would be neon pants.....so it must 90s ala grunge.



Yeah, you are jealous of my Ipad.

Admit it!
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squiddo

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #7 on: December 29, 2010, 11:35:56 AM »
Rob-

thanks again and a great day!

Thanks for not busting off a hold!



>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #8 on: December 29, 2010, 01:18:56 PM »
You guys didn't do Heaven's Gate?

That's the climb to do over there. Sweet Arete.
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mynameismud

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #9 on: December 29, 2010, 02:06:29 PM »
Isn't Heavens Gate in Condor Gulch?
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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #10 on: December 29, 2010, 05:52:27 PM »
Nope, you be on crack. It's on one of the sisters...far right.

Now if we had a route DB on the forum.... ;D ;D
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rhyang

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #11 on: December 30, 2010, 09:46:43 AM »
I'm curious about Condor Crag -- Condor Condiment (5.8 ) has a star in the guidebook.  North face, so probably better in the springtime after a dry spell.  Any pics or beta ?  (I seem to remember a party having an epic on it last year)

mynameismud

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #12 on: December 30, 2010, 09:50:08 AM »
It is worth spending some time on the Condor Crags.  Good this time of year to, just need a week or so of good weather for it to warm up and dry out a bit.  This has been a wet one.
Here's to sweat in your eye

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #13 on: December 30, 2010, 12:40:53 PM »
Mr Mud is getting forgetfull.....Condor Condiment is north facing..i.e. damn friking cold with no direct sun (done a few shadded routes in the winter and have learned).

Some parts are easy, yet heady. Jack did a wonderful job establishing the route. But take caution when his name is on a route. The 10a section was fun to watch Mr Mud mantle onto a load stone to clip the bolt (typical Jack style). After that it was pull over the lip into sunshine and run it to the belay.

I can dig up my pictures of Condiment.

I like St. Valintines M.

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squiddo

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #14 on: December 30, 2010, 12:51:20 PM »
cool, might check this out next week.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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mynameismud

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #15 on: December 30, 2010, 01:01:11 PM »
It is north facing but with a few days of sun in a row it drys out a bit and isn't to bad.  Would not want to be on it, or do the approach, if it has not had time to dry out.

yes, post the pics
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squiddo

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #16 on: December 30, 2010, 01:13:19 PM »
yeah- not perhaps that one.....I like sun
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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #17 on: December 30, 2010, 06:20:58 PM »
We have to be easy on Mr Mud, it was a few years ago (October maybe), and he has since warmed up.

Who else can make Astroman seem like it's 5.7.... ;D
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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #18 on: December 30, 2010, 09:13:19 PM »
Here are a few of the condor climb (2nd pitch)

2nd pitch that was 5.6 low with natural gear (which we didn't have) and JackH true 5.8


The Feral Rat cleaning the 5.8 part. He had led the 1st pitch. While leading the 5.8 part, I blew a foot hold, started to fall, but rebalanced onto the other foot. Good thing because I was yelling "falling", but the Rat didn't hear me or else I would have been ripped off.


Famous author on the 2nd pitch. Take note, he was the wise one wearing a hat, gloves and a thong (just kidding).


Upper part, very cool position....


I will search my achives for more.
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mynameismud

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Re: East side on Tuesday ?
« Reply #19 on: December 30, 2010, 09:58:02 PM »
nice pics,

Thank
you
Here's to sweat in your eye