First Sister West Face

[mungeclimber]

Just to the right of 226 are two distinct pockets. If one were to set a TR on their own quickdraws off the "Possible Belay" (which currently sports rings and makes descent with a single rope very convenient), one can TR a nice route just right of 226 using the distinct pockets.

Just right of that looks good as well.

Also, why hasn't someone lead thru the sole bolt at the right edge?

[mynameismud]

I think someone has lead through the sole bolt.  If it is the one I am thinking of.  Not exactly sure though.  Brad will know

[Brad Young]

I have no idea about that bolt. Neither did Clint. I know it's there, but I've always considered it abandoned, which seems like the only thing that makes sense (unless someone wanted to create an "X" rated route, which seems unlikely; why would they place that bolt so low and then leave the rest of the climbing unprotected?). I think it would be legit to treat it as abandoned and use it to create your own route. I thought about doing that myself, but I've never gotten around to it. And it would be an odd route: twenty feet of harder climbing to 70 feet of what, 5.0?

Still, the route would be on a nice formation which contains mostly good rock, and in a great location.

Mud, what have you heard that makes you think it's been led?

[F4?]

I lead it.

Just keep moving on.

[mynameismud]

I think I have the wrong bolt.  I thought that was the case and that is the reason I wanted your input.

[Brad Young]

I think he is talking about the bolt on the topo on page 94. Low on the far right side of the west face of the First Sister.

[F4?]

I think he is talking about the bolt on the topo on page 94. Low on the far right side of the west face of the First Sister.

Is the guide book wrong?

[Brad Young]

It is wrong in many places. But the topo is correct in that there is a bolt low on the right side of the west face of First Sister. I think this is the bolt that Rob is talking about.

[mynameismud]

Ok, I know the one.  Someone could probably solo it, but why have a bolt then nothing.  I agree as is it makes no sense.

[Jim McConachie]

Ah but it's a fun one.  Led it a few years back.  Bit run out after the clip.  Too bad the steep section isn't longer.

[MUCCI]

I lead that pitch in 05'.  Sandbagged by my partner,

Brand new, and fresh off my first lead (Long's Folly) the day before, I got some horn wraps midway up.

The finish, for me at that time, was one of those moments where you say " Please Don't break" and REALLY mean it.

casual 5.4 me thinks.

Munge, you TR's the face to the left correct?  Much steeper there.  The easy way to that bolt is starting on the right.

[Brad Young]

If it's been led, then it is a route. Jim, does Josh's 5.4 sound right (including the start)? Should it get an "R" or an "X" rating too? Gimme some details and I'll add it to the list.

[mungeclimber]

yowza 5.4?  I was on TR (with a fat pendo potential) and wasn't keen on it. Seemed harder, but I didn't even try.


Mucci, yep. It's a good line thru the pockets. Worthy of doing. I'm thinking no retro of the right arete. Keep it proud.  But a line going up left maybe starting in the pockets or the steep face would be a nice addition with appropriate protection.

[MUCCI]

Yeah, I think where you were TR it is a bit steep and much more difficult.

I don't really remember exactly where I went, just clipped and followed the big holds.  If I lead it again, I would bring tri cams and a bunch of different hexes up to 7 and nuts.  I bet you could eek out some gear up there.

I do remember thinking that it should have at least 2 more bolts after doing the other sister routes.   

Okay 5.4 was a bit of spray....

But not too bad getting to the bolt at the bottom. How many 5.5s at pinnacles have made you pucker?  I can think of a few. 
Regular route on tombstone......Terrifying climbing on bad rock.  5.3 death potential No R or X

R for sure Brad,  and you are definately pulling some crux moves way up there.

[Jim McConachie]

A few hard pulls and a long slab run to the top.  Definitely no fall climbing.  Seems like the short steepish section at the bottom was harder than 5.4.  Have to go and do it again.

[Brad Young]

I got on it yesterday. This is the one bolt (Star Dryvin 3/8", ancient angle iron, home-made hanger) shown on the bottom right of First Sister's West Face on the topo on page 94. It is not listed in the book as a route; it is merely shown on the topo. It is right of route number 226. The bolt is 15 feet up.

I backed off.

It felt like I was going to do at least 5.8 moves to get my feet above the bolt; I knew I wouldn't be able to reverse the moves, and wasn't willing to fall on the old bolt, and that was worrisome enough. But I could also see what looked like sustained, loose 5.7 (at least) for another 20 feet, with no possible pro. After that it was easier and there was a knob that might have been slingable. But then another steep headwall, this on more than 40 feet up.

Is it possible that Jim had in mind the wrong bolt when he described climbing it? Mucci, you looked at it Monday and concluded you didn't climb past this bolt, and that you had misunderstood Munge's post, correct?

[MUCCI]

Yep, I came in from the left on the class 3 ramp, headed up and right to the arete to the top.

Standing under that lone bolt, I realized I actually climbed the center "right" start to the 1st bolt, then traversed right.

That section above the bolt looks really commiting and there is no way I would have forgotten having lead that section.

Cheers to Jim!  How about we add some bolts to it?