Author Topic: Anchor Thief! (Read 16404 times)

Atomizer · « **on:** January 31, 2011, 12:52:39 PM »

One of the Mussy Hooks was stolen off the new anchor on Feed The Beast. Who would do that, someone take it for their route? This brings a question to mind, are convenient lowering anchors against the ethics at the Pinns? Do people feel that this is an invasion of Sport Climbing in a traditionally minded area? Personally I like the things and value the investment someone else made in the climb.

mynameismud · « **Reply #1 on:** January 31, 2011, 01:22:49 PM »

Did not know it had a Mussy Hook.

Do people still climb that route?

I didn't think it was trendy anymore...

Didn't you get the memo Choss is in!

Brad Young · « **Reply #2 on:** January 31, 2011, 02:41:00 PM »

Quote from: Atomizer on January 31, 2011, 12:52:39 PM

This brings a question to mind, are convenient lowering anchors against the ethics at the Pinns? Do people feel that this is an invasion of Sport Climbing in a traditionally minded area? Personally I like the things and value the investment someone else made in the climb.

I haven't heard any complaints about the few places at Pinns where such "convenience" devices have been installed. It hasn't happened much; nothing like what we see in some areas where all possible efforts are made to avoid even having to carry quickdraws half a mile in to the cliff. It is my impression that Tom (in this case) has been quiet and circumspect about the few places he's done this.

F4? · « **Reply #3 on:** January 31, 2011, 07:17:58 PM »

You will never hear me complain. I'm thankful for the chains brad has equipped many of the routes I've done. Lava falls for example used to have a huge piece of webbing on the 2 nd belay. It was ugly and unsafe. Chains made it much safer and blended in better as well.

The only time you'll hear me complain is when I'm having to carry them damn chains.

Brad Young · « **Reply #4 on:** January 31, 2011, 07:31:56 PM »

Is there much difference between "plain" chains and chains with Mussy hooks on them? I've personally equipped tens of Pinns routes with camouflaged, galvanized 3/8" chain. This avoids crappy, faded, worn webbing and, I think, minimizes climber impact. I don't use Mussy hooks, but I'm usually leaving the chains on routes that aren't sport/lower off types of routes.

Not sure why someone would take one Mussy hook. Seems kinda silly. Misguided is the word that comes to mind. I wonder why they took it?

I'll state right now though that I'll hit the f#cking roof if jackasses start leaving "chain quick-draws" at Pinns. This is a hugely lazy, unsightly, selfish, egotistical, self-centered scourge that has infected too many crags (one is too many). I care too much about Pinns to put up with it there.

mynameismud · « **Reply #5 on:** January 31, 2011, 07:41:17 PM »

I will not take Mussy hooks or fixed anchors. I have put in my share of chains.

Some of the new convenience anchors I prefer not to have but I will not mess with them.

If routes are equipped with fixed chains or draws. Hmm, I will put it out there right now. I will help myself to those. I see that as booty. Folks can fix what ever they want at Table Mountain and I will not take a stance one way or the other. But at the Pins, well, that is different.

F4? · « **Reply #6 on:** January 31, 2011, 07:42:26 PM »

Who'd want to schlepp 20lbs of Chains to Pod?

mynameismud · « **Reply #7 on:** January 31, 2011, 07:45:01 PM »

F4? · « **Reply #8 on:** January 31, 2011, 08:17:04 PM »

Nah, I'm too lazy. I'd get squiddo to. Or slip a few links into Mungie's pack.

Plus, chain draws would knock off holds= not good for the route.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #9 on:** January 31, 2011, 09:53:05 PM »

I didn't know there were lower offs. I thought they were just hangers. I suppose with crowds comes the need to avoid cluster frigging each other's anchors.

At least once I had some asshat pull my gear off of FTB Toprope set up so they could clip in their equipment.

Don't touch my stuff dude

Atomizer · « **Reply #10 on:** February 01, 2011, 08:19:19 AM »

I heard of someone getting their toprope setup stolen and rope thrown down while at Goat Rock (Castle).

I think very few people go to The Pinns enough to ever leave fixed draws, most people get bored pretty quick here and head elsewhere. And of us that don't get bored, I may be the only one that would even try something hard enough to even wish I could do such things. As much as I would love to walk up to Ranger Bolts and have all the draws on it, I would hate to walk up to it and see draws on it... And they would be stolen pretty quick.

MUCCI · « **Reply #11 on:** February 01, 2011, 12:29:01 PM »

Pinnacles is a safe harbor for climbers to test their mettle, young or old, cautious or bold...
Theft has shown its ugly head at pinns a few times, hangers etc. Mostly I believe in the 90's? There are no "pinnacles christians" if you get my drift?

Rather a few folks who would like to see pinnacles retain it's reputation of adventure and bold climbing history.

I do find it hard to believe that only one mussy hook was taken, details? is the bolt gone? Was it chopped?

Fixed draws will never catch on at pinnacles, nor should they. Those who I know that have climbed Ranger Bolts and Cataract C did it from the ground up. To "Work" a route on the monolith means you will have the attention of all of the other weekenders who mainline up to do POD. Hanging steel would give that area even more of a circus vibe.

So yes, I agree theft of fixed anchors and such is bad form, I spend alot of time replacing anchors and removing tat. If I ran into a bunch of draws on the way down, they would be removed as well. I would make every effort to find the owner and return them, but tat is tat and people tend to leave stuff like ropes, gear and webbing in places that are frequented by tourists and park personel.

The last thing we want is the park to ask one of us to remove fixed ropes...or fixed draws.

Atom- I would be happy to help out with replacement if you want, I assume with your post you are motivated to fix this issue?

Cheers!

Mucci

joe · « **Reply #12 on:** February 01, 2011, 02:00:48 PM »

good to see you here Adam.

F4? · « **Reply #13 on:** February 01, 2011, 03:50:18 PM »

Still if folks could leave thier gear in...that would be less weight to have to carry.

Even better, bolt the cracks and then we'd not have to fiddle with Pitons and hexes.

Come on it's all about convienence.