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Author Topic: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.  (Read 1252573 times)

mungeclimber

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #40 on: November 02, 2011, 07:58:42 PM »
like this one in particular...

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cobbledik

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #41 on: November 02, 2011, 08:01:42 PM »
Rapping from the anchor to watch from the ground on this route, yes. 51% of me wanted to be able to see her at all times so I could help her if she had any problems with the traversing nature of the route or with removing the iron and such. 49% just wanted to get off the damn route. So it was sort of good?

I'll be down in Riverside this weekend working on my solo aiding process, then the week after i'm heading down south to try to aid one of the nailing pitches on Tahquitz clean. We'll see.

I can still see the first part of the final traverse on Premeditated that stumped me and caused my breakdown. In hindsight (or course) I feel like a tricam (which i had on me) would work to solve the first 2 pins I placed. Maybe it would have worked and I'm pissed at myself for not thinking that at the time. Could the rest of the traverse go with ball nuts and/or inverted cam hooks? probably. I was so fried I couldn't get my head together to go clean again until the final bulge. I told myself that I had to fall before I'd nail, but The Fear got the better of me. I should be proud of the send but I'm instead just beating myself up constantly.

Damn you pinnacles, I'll make a lady out of you yet.
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cobbledik

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #42 on: November 02, 2011, 08:04:40 PM »
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mungeclimber

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #43 on: November 02, 2011, 08:05:29 PM »
lol

yeah, don't knock your ascent.  But it will be there if you want to try again too.


brilliant to go to the ground. the poor mucci guy must have been futtered in the head not to think of it. hahahaha


Kev, you going to post up on the Taco?  
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cobbledik

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #44 on: November 02, 2011, 08:14:01 PM »
I'll post on the Taco and Bigwall once i finish the TR (probably 2 weeks to finish it. It's getting very creative writey. My college profs will be proud)


Yeah, that climb is like giving birth (based upon what I've been told) Once I was on the path back to the car, I already couldn't really recall the physical fear I felt on the route. Everything was, "that wasn't sooooo bad" So My Name is Mud was right, "never say Never"
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MUCCI

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #45 on: November 02, 2011, 08:18:11 PM »
I wouldn't beat yourself up too much.  Aid falls are serious business.  On PreMed, you could assume A4 bodily injury if you fell.

Clean rating?  Man, I would not want to test ANY of your clean placements in a fall.  But I would say that a fall from the crux, where you started nailing, would end your career.

Remember that your life is worth more than maintaining a clean ascent.  I think you showed good judgment up there, finally nailing where it was mandatory.  Showed the old dogs what can be done with a few cams and such:)  A few well placed pins can and just might save your ass in the future.

Look at what you already accomplished on this route.

1st time the same person has lead both pitches
1st time P1 went clean.
1st female ascent.
4th, possibly 5th ascent.

Good job Kevin.


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cobbledik

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #46 on: November 02, 2011, 08:20:13 PM »
Thanks Mucci and Brad and Munge and the rest of you guys. It means a lot to me, seriously.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #47 on: November 03, 2011, 08:29:00 AM »
Quote
4th, possibly 5th ascent.

thought it was 6th? definitely an "early" repeat.
thread around here somewhere on that...
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MUCCI

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #48 on: November 06, 2011, 09:07:41 PM »
Munge-
Barbellas ascent was never confirmed, (he could not remember).
I also remember reading they rapped off bolts in a lodestone, which is p1
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mungeclimber

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #49 on: November 06, 2011, 09:17:32 PM »
roger that
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Atomizer

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #50 on: November 07, 2011, 06:48:14 AM »
Will that thing go free? Unfortunately, after closer recon of our Bridwell Bolts Free project we realized that the ten feet of rock that looks like it will break off will break off. Whats the story with freeing this?
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cobbledik

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #51 on: November 07, 2011, 07:04:02 AM »
Do you mean will it go clean or free?

Clean = yes
- - - I only nailed a 15' section of rock, I believe that camhooks and tricams and hooks will get past it, not sure if i'll ever go back up to test my theory.
Free = yes
- - - The moves are there for a moderate grade but then again, I wouldn't be surprised if a free attempt wouldn't just keep pulling rock off until you dig through to the other side of the balconies.
R/X = yes
- - - None of it can be protected well enough to survive the force of a lead fall without drilling bolts.
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Atomizer

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #52 on: November 07, 2011, 07:06:18 AM »
Hey Mittens, lets go with the Tommy Caldwell method and rap bolt that shit!
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Atomizer

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #53 on: November 07, 2011, 07:07:41 AM »
We're looking for the steepest most chossy piece of rock in the pins to work our magic on.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #54 on: November 07, 2011, 07:21:58 AM »
LOL
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F4?

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #55 on: November 07, 2011, 07:32:26 AM »
Mr Mud will free it.

Give him 2 weeks in Golds...then watch out!
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F4?

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #56 on: November 07, 2011, 07:45:38 AM »
A better project would be to check out Great Spectacular....the bolts are there..
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cobbledik

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #57 on: November 07, 2011, 07:56:49 AM »
This route wont work for steep, the slab is the best part because everything that comes off hits the slab and breaks more off. A pinnacles snowball rolling downhill.

Mustache would be a good route to free, boulder to a bomber cam at around 15' then normal dirty crack climbing.
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Brad Young

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #58 on: November 07, 2011, 07:59:01 AM »
Or, nearby "The Great Spectacular" is "What If?" which might go free but would likely need a little wire-brush affection first.

Yeah... you guys could make Pinnacles history.
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Brad Young

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Re: Premeditated Part 1: Pitch 1 goes clean.
« Reply #59 on: November 07, 2011, 08:25:48 AM »
Quote from: Atomizer on November 07, 2011, 07:06:18 AM

Hey Mittens, lets go with the Tommy Caldwell method and rap bolt that shit!


And, really, Adam I thought with your obviously high intelligence that you'd be better at spelling and at grammar in general. But even you screw up on spelling, having obviously omitted the letter "e" as the last letter of your adjective in the quote above. Shame on you; I award you a B- as your grade.
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