Author Topic: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?  (Read 19943308 times)

cobbledik

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New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« on: October 31, 2011, 05:08:36 AM »
I was climbing at Discovery Wall on Sat and noticed a new route had been put in right beneath the Roof pitch on the far right side #104 in the (old?) guidebook

The route had about 2 fatty bolts going right up the face to a two bolt fatty rap anchor right in the middle of the roof traverse. Seemed like a rather short and unneeded route considering that the two bolt anchor is right in the way of the best part of the Roof climb.

Anyone know who bolted it? I didn't climb it so it might be worth it, but I have my doubts.

I'll post pictures later today when I take them out of my camera.

Kevin DeWeese
(edited 11/17/11 to change my mistaken bolt count of 3-4 down to 2 and to add my real name to the post)

Brad Young

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #1 on: October 31, 2011, 05:31:35 AM »
It's called "Straight Up." Rated 5.8. It was put up by Matt and Greg this last August. I haven't climbed it yet either, and, since I"m not in Pinnacles mode yet, I haven't added it to the site.

I'll link the thread to them and I'll bet one of them will respond.

mynameismud

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #2 on: October 31, 2011, 08:24:57 AM »
Seems like an odd location.  The last part of the traverse on The Roof is a the crux for some people and they on occasion drop down.  Their last piece works basically as a TR then they go up to the anchors.  Will these new anchors get in the way.  Really hate to say it but this does seem like a bit of a squeeze job.  There is still a lot of rock out there.
Here's to sweat in your eye

joe

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #3 on: October 31, 2011, 11:29:32 AM »
"There is still a lot of rock out there."

really Erik, are we calling it rock now?

Brad Young

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #4 on: October 31, 2011, 11:45:39 AM »
Yeah, DES. I thought we were calling it fruit, and classifying it by how low to the ground it was hanging?

Wow. It sounds like the start of another Pinnacles climbing season.  ;D

mynameismud

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #5 on: October 31, 2011, 12:53:57 PM »
Joe,

Yes it is rock.  Anything else is second rate.
Here's to sweat in your eye

cobbledik

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #6 on: October 31, 2011, 02:11:18 PM »
I think there's more bolts a little lower where the guy is but I could be mistaken. Shows where the anchors are in relation to the Roof route.


Up close of the anchors



Personally, I'm a little concerned about what the anchor bolts do to the hand traverse beneath the roof at that point. I can't remember exactly, but I seem to recall the roof line dipping down a bit then back up as it moves from left to right.

mynameismud

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #7 on: October 31, 2011, 02:38:23 PM »
I thougt it would be further to the right.  Do not really like the location of those bolts.  Fairly sure that has been TR'd in the past using cams as directionals.

Is anyone else looking at the line going straight out the roof?
Here's to sweat in your eye

Atomizer

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #8 on: November 01, 2011, 05:21:03 AM »
Now that you say so Mud, i'm looking at he line going out the roof. But all those bolts leading up to it really disgrace the roof route.

F4?

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #9 on: November 01, 2011, 05:44:27 AM »
Isn't one of the roof cruxes about right of the anchor bolts?

Yeah, sorry to say, but they would change the character of the roof traverse.
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mungeclimber

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #10 on: November 01, 2011, 09:50:13 AM »
change the character?  bah


It's called bolting next to a crack.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Atomizer

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #11 on: November 01, 2011, 09:52:36 AM »
Wasn't there some pins up in that roof?

F4?

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #12 on: November 01, 2011, 09:58:55 AM »
Quote
change the character?  bah

Um, yes. My recollection was of clipping some pins. Getting a piece in and having to lightly dance around the chunk of rock. With bolts near, it's not as scary.
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cobbledik

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #13 on: November 01, 2011, 09:59:51 AM »
Two angles with tat run through their eyes. They're still there, one on the left and the other on the right of the new anchor bolts.

cobbledik

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #14 on: November 01, 2011, 10:50:35 AM »
Yellow webbing attached to each angle


F4?

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #15 on: November 01, 2011, 12:01:46 PM »
Mmmm, okay, 10% less scary. You'll still be clipping the pins.

Whatever, back to painting.
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MUCCI

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #16 on: November 01, 2011, 03:07:34 PM »


I have TR'd that whole face, with MANY others, on many occasions.  We used the pins and cams for anchors and also TR's the arete below the Roof anchors and the crack to the right of the arete which would go with gear only.  These Top ropes have been established for decades.

Having lead that route, I would be disappointed to come across those bolts in the middle of the crux of a classic bridwell free route.  Not very hard, but it was a good lead for me and many others over the years.

I did a lot of work rebolting the gutter and the roof routes a few years ago.  I am more than displeased with the lack of respect both of you have shown for the area.

Matt, Greg-

I would appreciate it if we could have a discussion about this route, either here or in private.

Feel free to PM me.



cobbledik

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #17 on: November 01, 2011, 03:30:03 PM »
Part of the reason I noticed the new bolts was because I tried to lead Roof last season and backed off because of water on the route and my own unwillingness to step up that day. I knew I could do the route technically and so looked forward to going back to finish off the route.

I know I can still lead it and ignore the bolts, but I can't help but feel like I missed out on something that I can't get back to now.

mungeclimber

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #18 on: November 01, 2011, 03:34:42 PM »
Mucci, seems to me that only the anchors are problematic. Though this is based solely on the pics, but it's been a number of years since I've lead that thing or even been on it. 

If the route can be lead thru on the bolts and joins up with the existing anchor, it might make a good variant lead. I'm assuming the lead bolts went in ground up.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

MUCCI

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Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #19 on: November 01, 2011, 03:50:16 PM »
 Blatant disregard of a long-standing agreement btw the park and climbers in "Not establishing any new routes over existing hiker trails".

Further, bolted an existing TR, infringed on a gear only lead, and bolted an anchor in the middle of the gear protected hand traverse.

Var without the anchor?  Really?




Am I missing something?

I will be interested in hearing the rationale.