Author Topic: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?  (Read 19943350 times)

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5974
    • Mudncrud
Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #100 on: March 01, 2012, 11:10:50 AM »
The bolts in the middle of The Roof need to be removed.
Here's to sweat in your eye

cobbledik

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 328
  • Bucky approves
Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #101 on: March 01, 2012, 12:10:36 PM »
Upon looking at the pictures I took and zooming in, it would seem that the anchors are stud bolts and not 5-piece bolts. I can't say for sure for the anchor bolts themselves because the rap rings are in the way, but I can see clearly that the lead bolts are threaded stud bolts as opposed to the hex head 5-piece.

I'm assuming that this would make removal a bit more messy?

MUCCI

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 462
Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #102 on: March 01, 2012, 01:21:33 PM »
I'm assuming that this would make removal a bit more messy?

Not a bit.


cobbledik

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 328
  • Bucky approves
Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #103 on: March 01, 2012, 02:06:40 PM »
I guess not with your new toy, no.

Atomizer

  • Atomized
  • *
  • Posts: 836
Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #104 on: March 03, 2012, 07:58:23 AM »
I walked by this route yesterday and was pleased to see that the anchors have been removed. It looks like whoever did it knew what they were doing.  I couldn't even tell where they bolts had been.

Now what do we do about the two now useless bolts below?

cobbledik

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 328
  • Bucky approves
Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #105 on: March 03, 2012, 06:31:51 PM »
Call them a direct variation to The Roof route. I believe the same suggestion occurred earlier upthread.

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 6172
Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #106 on: March 03, 2012, 07:41:49 PM »
Yeah, where'd the bolts go?

Sweeet day @ the pinns.

MUDs need to buy a new rope....min 60m..
I'm not worthy.

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5974
    • Mudncrud
Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #107 on: March 03, 2012, 10:40:10 PM »
It is only missing 45 feet from one end.  Makes the approach that much easier for us middle aged sport climbers.
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6683
Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #108 on: March 13, 2012, 07:35:14 AM »
Having read Atomizer's comment that the two lead bolts are still there, I modified the route description in the "sticky thread" for new routes. I think the two bolts are probably a legitimate alternate start? So I rewrote the description to be consistent with that:

"104.2  Straight Up  5.10a  A variant first half to route number 104, Roof. Start five or six feet to the right of that route's (corner) start. A short loose section leads straight up onto ledges, then onto solid rock and past two bolts.  Join Roof just after the start of its rightward traverse; finish to that route's intermediate anchor."

oldtopangalizard

  • LoadStone Lovers
  • *****
  • Posts: 11
Re: New route on right side of Discovery Wall?
« Reply #109 on: February 02, 2014, 07:56:05 AM »
Wow, great stuff on this thread. Having been gone from Pinnacles for so long I'm not up on this kind of info. It was in the mid to late 80's that I used to do the Roof. I always enjoyed moving under the roof out right setting funky stuff in the horizontal. I imagine smaller cams fit in there real nice, we were always too cheap to spend over $15.00 for a piece of gear, imagine that.  I always thought it was big time fun, mostly because it was different from the other Pinnacles routes we would climb.
  Lot of interesting reads on this forum. I will be in the eastside in a month or so, I'll have to take a look where the second route is.