I lead Straight Up today as the FA'ists intended, and finished on the anchor bolts and lowered. I intend to go back and lead the line straight to the roof, then finish on Roof's anchors. I'm not trying to make an advocate statement with my observations either to pull or leave them at this time. I reserve any judgement.
Some thoughts:
-I don't harbor ill will toward Matt or Greg. In fact, they are both nice guys when I have talked to them in the gym, and in Greg's case I've climbed with him and talked to him offthread.
-The climbing moves that are protected by the lead bolts are good moves with reaches between good edges.
-The route is only over a "Climber Access" trail, not the NPS designated "High Peaks" trail. Hikers only inadvertently go that way if they are lost. There is a warning placard indicating a danger of falling rock on the sign post.
-The anchor bolts are in fact placed in the middle of the traverse for an existing line called "Roof." "Roof" is rated 5.10a in the 2007 guide.
-Placing bolts on an existing line is retrobolting. Retrobolting, when done without the consent of the FA party, if one of them is still alive, is not consistent with the tradition of deferring to the FA party on where protection should be placed where the original route was done ground up. Pinnacles is such an area where there is a great deal of respect for those that have gone before.
-The anchor bolts are in fact bolted next to what is otherwise a protectable crack.
-"Roof" has chains at the end of the traverse. "Roof" continues to the top of the formation.
-The old pitons appeared to be unreliable. One exhibiting some cracking. I did not bounce test either of them.
-The lead bolts on Straight Up are placed well in what appears to be solid holes.
-The opening moves up to the first baby roof are loose.
-The flake that the person is yarding on in the pic is hollow and fractured. Gear behind that flake is not advised. I lead directly to the first bolt without supplemental gear.
-The lead climbing moves after the second lead bolt, felt to me, like it naturally ascends up directly under the anchor bolts (i.e. the natural weakness). Going right from the second lead bolt seemed insecure due to a flake that is fractured all along the backside and the holds being fewer and further between. If the flake holds, the moves are do-able that way as well, but perhaps at a more difficult rating than 5.8.
-Connecting Straight Up to finish on Roof is do-able. The stance where you clip the anchor bolts is not so far from the traverse crack that you can't place gear.
