Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[F4?]

Unless it wasn't reported.......

[clink]

Some were obviously reported as being unreported, avoiding any conjecture.

[JC w KC redux]

Unless it wasn't reported.......

There is no doubt still stuff out there that hasn't been reported. For example, the first 3 bolts on The West Face have been replaced by an unknown party and are still suspect in my opinion - so I didn't include them on my list. They are all wedges (I assume) and I did not test them with a magnet to see if they are stainless. The first stud had a loose nut so I removed and loctited it. The 2nd bolt has at least an inch of stud sticking out which means if it is a 3 inch bolt - there is only about 1 1/2 inches in the hole. The third bolt and I believe the anchor bolts barely had any stud sticking out of the nut - pretty much flush. It's my understanding that you should always try to have at least 3 threads showing above the nut. Since these are all stud style bolts, there is no way to know what type or length they are. I'll continue to take pictures, report and replace as much as I can but I've first got to stop getting sucked into all these FA's and climbing on the curs-ed plutonics!   

[Brad Young]

... but I've first got to stop getting sucked into all these FA's and climbing on the curs-ed plutonics!   

Wahhh, life is so difficult; your climbing career has been ruined by people of bad influence.

[mynameismud]

Wahhh, life is so difficult; your climbing career has been ruined by people of bad     influence.

Definitely!

[clink]

Ibby, ibhy ahh.

[JC w KC redux]

Do they have stand up comedy for climbers? Cuz I think you'se guys missed yer calling!

[F4?]

What about the Retrobolted list?

Who has that?

[clink]

What about the Retrobolted list?

Who has that?

He is buried in a hole dug with Mountain Tools.

[F4?]

All Hail the King of Smack....Clink!

[waldo]

Since these are all stud style bolts, there is no way to know what type or length they are.

I'm a certified bolt tester.  Ask Clink.

[vsi1600]

The first pitch of Shake N Bake is a worthy candidate for new bolts.  Would compliment the excellent new bolts higher up on the route!

Also, a new bolt or two on Heat Seeking Moisture Missile would make the lead a slightly better idea.  I think there's a new bolt on that one somewhere higher up.

[JC w KC redux]

The first pitch of Shake N Bake is a worthy candidate for new bolts.  Would compliment the excellent new bolts higher up on the route!

Also, a new bolt or two on Heat Seeking Moisture Missile would make the lead a slightly better idea.  I think there's a new bolt on that one somewhere higher up.

Not sure what the story is on Shake and Bake since it is listed as '76 and not on my master list on p3 this thread.
Rubine listed them as 3/8" split shaft. S&B has quite the classic history, so I personally wouldn't touch it without one of the rebolting masters along to help.
Maybe Bruce or someone else can shed light on how there can be new bolts up high but with no record I can find either on here, ASCA, Clint's page or FOP. I have been on some of the other old Higgins routes and the star drives on those are still in good shape. Just a suggestion - It would be helpful to know the specific condition of any routes suggested for rebolt - bolt type, hanger type, tight/loose, rusted - etc. I try to take notes and pics when I lead up something that I think is a candidate.

Moisture Missile is Jim's route and he is still an active climber, so maybe he'll shed some light on the nature of the hardware on that route. It is listed as '84 so it's much newer than many of the other older routes still needing attention. Rubine has 1/4" and 3/8" split shaft.

[mynameismud]

Jim replaced one or more of the bolts higher up.  He did this on his own not through FOP or ASCA.

[JC w KC redux]

Jim replaced one or more of the bolts higher up.  He did this on his own not through FOP or ASCA.

Thanks D,

Maybe he'll be kind enough to give us dates and some specifics - probably replaced the 1/4" ers.
I'll be talking to him soon.

Any insight on S&B?

[mynameismud]

There is an old thread here somewhere that was put up when we rebolted Shake and Bake.  A guy from Truckee let us know that if we donated the arms he would donate the hardware.  He provided two drills (that we returned), bolts, hangers and glue.  He did help with some drilling.  We pulled and in a couple of places chopped all the old bolts on Lava Falls and Shake and Bake over the course of a two day weekend.  We ran out of time and hardware for the first pitch of Shake and Bake.  All of the holes for both routes were drilled by hand.  The bolts are 1/2 x 6 or 6.5 so the holes basically had to be around 7.  When possible we drilled in the same hole.

We would have rebolted the first pitch of Shake and Bake as well but just ran out of time and the work was done on the last open weekend of the season so the following weekend was not a possibility to finish.

I do not remember who all was there.  It was something like Clint who basically lived on a rope with a drill in his hand for two full days, F4, Munge, mud, maybe Uber do not remember who else.  Perhaps F4 or Munge remember who was there that weekend. 

Do not want to forget the guy from Truckee he was there.  Anyone remember his name?  It would be good to have his name in this thread.  What an awesome contribution.  He had climbed in the Pins a few times but not all that much.

[Brad Young]

As I recall it was the guy from Truckee, you, Clint, and F4 who did that work.

It's important to note though that only most of the pitches on the second and third pitches of Shake and Bake got replaced, not all. I'd passed on the "all" comment to Skelton in January when he led all its pitches with Mudworm, and that's why he skipped three bolts (the old ones that are still there) when he led the route.

[mynameismud]

That is correct.  I think we missed two bolts,  the first and the last.  The last bolt was always occupied since that was the top anchor bolt and the first bolt we just missed.  The first bolt we just missed.  Maybe it is the first two bolts.  It would be good to clear that part up.

[vsi1600]

You guys did a quality job on Shake n Bake!  The upper pitches felt pretty casual with good bolts.  Thanks for that! 

Not sure what I'd call the first pitch from a safety standpoint, but not knowing where the bolts were, and their suspect nature, made it an interesting outing.

[mynameismud]

VS1600, Welcome to the forum.