Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[JC w KC redux]

This is the lone bolt on the NE Corner 5.6* of the Monolith - what a JOKE! FA says 1956. It gave me a feeling of security equal to clipping the pull tab on a BLL. I only put the draw on it to act as a directional for KC. The knob just below it looks slingable from below. Unfortunately the top surface is a smooth slanting sloper with no lip and even though I wanted to sling it, I seriously doubt it would keep a sling in place. Maybe the fact that you have to lead the first pitch of the Regular Route to get up here negates any real pro on this separate climb? Needless to say, I treated it as a solo. I'd be grateful if someone would be willing to use this as a teaching tool and help me replace the bolt and hanger.

[JC w KC redux]

so no comments on this POS?

[MUCCI]

I will set up a time, in the NEAR future, where we can both go and replace that relic.

It looks to be a choice hanger, maybe even a Dolt Pin?

I have never done that route either....

Thanks for the heads up!

[JC w KC redux]

I will set up a time, in the NEAR future, where we can both go and replace that relic.

It looks to be a choice hanger, maybe even a Dolt Pin?

I have never done that route either....

Thanks for the heads up!

right on brudda!

[F4?]

I have never done that route either....

What???

It's a great line. That bolt is just fine....

You also have to do the Piton traverse as well....preferably when wet to get the full experience (extra points for wearing any of said items... knickers, suspenders and double leather boots with a nail or 2 for traction).

[JC w KC redux]

What???

It's a great line. That bolt is just fine....

You also have to do the Piton traverse as well....preferably when wet to get the full experience (extra points for wearing any of said items... knickers, suspenders and double leather boots with a nail or 2 for traction).

yep...that's the ticket!

too late...i already did the taverse but no extra points...


starting the traverse...i believe my next words were HOLY CRAP!

looking back



after clipping the last piton

[mungeclimber]

I will set up a time, in the NEAR future, where we can both go and replace that relic.

It looks to be a choice hanger, maybe even a Dolt Pin?

I have never done that route either....

Thanks for the heads up!

leave the pin if it's not corroded (perhaps brush it down and paint it), just replace the bolt itself.

[mungeclimber]

Suggested replacement per JC


http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=1720.0


Anchor bolt flexing and lower bolt is SMC corrosion type.

[JC w KC redux]

leave the pin if it's not corroded (perhaps brush it down and paint it), just replace the bolt itself.

no worries. i probably won't ever mess with it - it's a piece of Pinns history. is it an old piton that was modified into a hanger? it just didn't look like anything i would want to fall on - but on this route i wasn't going to fall anyway. maybe that was the logic when they rebolted the corner anchor - plus i already mentioned previously in this thread that you have to be strong and skilled enough to lead the Regular Route to get up here - so the corner route is just good fun after that - with or without the pro. the rebolting team may have also considered the close proximity of the bolt to the corner anchor - if this relic were to pop, the anchor would catch ya...

[mungeclimber]

it hasn't been rebolted, yet, has it?  I figured the star dryv was from the FA, but you did say 1953, eh?

It should get rebolted with a good bolt, just I love those curious pieces of gear!

[JC w KC redux]

it hasn't been rebolted, yet, has it?  I figured the star dryv was from the FA, but you did say 1953, eh?

It should get rebolted with a good bolt, just I love those curious pieces of gear!

1956 - it's a couple years older than me!
To my knowledge no one has touched it.
It's only been a month since we were up there.
Haven't heard from Mucci lately. Maybe when they all think it's the season again.
As for us? we go every weekend.

[mungeclimber]

you crazy kids. It's 108 season.  

We'll fix ya right up next weekend though.

[F4?]

I shutter at the thought of replacing those pins. Would be fun to do it on
Rappel...

[JC w KC redux]

I was disturbed by this anchor yesterday. Brad had mentioned seeing one configured like this on SPH with a substandard size chain - which this appears to be. I thought the inconspicuous white paint was a nice touch too - probably rustoleum.
The rappel is only about 20 feet. This is the anchor above Dumbo at Elephant Rock. 
The FA shows as 2000.

any thoughts?

[waldo]

That bolted piton on the NE corner of Monolith should be in the National Historical Registry.  It's the only one left at Pinnacles that I know of.  Anybody else know of another?  I think a modern bolt nearby and perhaps a little plaque next to it are in order.

[mungeclimber]

I was disturbed by this anchor yesterday. Brad had mentioned seeing one configured like this on SPH with a substandard size chain - which this appears to be. I thought the inconspicuous white paint was a nice touch too - probably rustoleum.
The rappel is only about 20 feet. This is the anchor above Dumbo at Elephant Rock.  
The FA shows as 2000.

any thoughts?

This pic looks upside down.


Waldo, yes!

[F4?]

Yup, I agree. It's bommer.

That bolted piton on the NE corner of Monolith should be in the National Historical Registry.  It's the only one left at Pinnacles that I know of.  Anybody else know of another?  I think a modern bolt nearby and perhaps a little plaque next to it are in order.

PS, the chain setup mentioned...that's a std Fixe stainless setup. By no means is it substandard. Even better is to hit it w black and red paint.

[Brad Young]

I was disturbed by this anchor yesterday. Brad had mentioned seeing one configured like this on SPH with a substandard size chain - which this appears to be. I thought the inconspicuous white paint was a nice touch too - probably rustoleum.
The rappel is only about 20 feet. This is the anchor above Dumbo at Elephant Rock.  
The FA shows as 2000.

any thoughts?

JC, the one I mentioned up here had store-bought 5/16th inch (probably chinese made) chain in a similar configuration. Safety depended on about six of the chain links all being safe (these six extended down from one bolt - if any one link broke, the rappel would fail).

I suspect that the Fixe gear in this anchor is better, but I still think it is foolish (partly because it is so unnecessary) to use one link to rappel from - even if the one point is of the quality shown in your photo.

[mungeclimber]

BY, what do you mean "one point"?

[Brad Young]

BY, what do you mean "one point"?

One ring in the case of John's photo; instead of two rings or chain-ends like we usually set up. I edited my post to clarify.