Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[Zay]

I, too, like ice cold beer, and require tolerance. Looks like I'm nozing around the right place 

[mynameismud]

This is on topic for the thread.  We moved the last bolt on Shades of Jade.  We moved the bolt down 10 inches and to the left 4 1/2 feet.  The last bolt now properly protects the bulge.

[JC w KC redux]

This is on topic for the thread.  We moved the last bolt on Shades of Jade.  We moved the bolt down 10 inches and to the left 4 1/2 feet.  The last bolt now properly protects the bulge.

Sweet dude. We were eyeballing the line today from The Barge.
Going back tomorrow for some more tomfoolery. Maybe some bally hoo.

 

[Brad Young]

I can't believe they're still out there.

While J.C. "tapped, tapped, tapped" away, replacing the bolts on yet another route, I got to wander a little.

I found another obviously abandoned project (one now-hangerless bolt 25 feet up and an old bit of one inch tubular tied to something under the moss 40 feet up). All on a decent looking slab that is 90 or 100 feet high. I think they bailed too soon and should have gone a little left where they went a little right.

He and I should go revive and finish it 

[clink]

Three taps per turn does the job.

Note
A turn is not a full revolution.

[JC w KC redux]

Three taps per turn does the job.
Note
A turn is not a full revolution.

Yeah...like you would know 

[JC w KC redux]

I can't believe they're still out there.

While J.C. "tapped, tapped, tapped" away, replacing the bolts on yet another route, I got to wander a little.

I found another obviously abandoned project (one now-hangerless bolt 25 feet up and an old bit of one inch tubular tied to something under the moss 40 feet up). All on a decent looking slab that is 90 or 100 feet high. I think they bailed too soon and should have gone a little left where they went a little right.

He and I should go revive and finish it 

Let's go zig where they zagged 

[Brad Young]

Three taps per turn does the job.

Note
A turn is not a full revolution.

No, gorilla hands and arms do the job (in your case anyway). The human Bosche.

[Brad Young]

Let's go zig where they zagged 

We'll have to zag once to go see what that black retreat webbing is tied to under all that moss). I'm highly curious.

Then we'll zig.   

[JC w KC redux]

We'll have to zag once to go see what that black retreat webbing is tied to under all that moss). I'm highly curious.

Then we'll zig.   

It's tied to a bone 

[JC w KC redux]

I just wanted to give a heads up if anyone rushes out to climb Old Route. The old anchor bolt up there was too cool to pull and it is also nice and tight. With that in mind I placed another bolt in excellent rock and decided to continue using the old bolt in combination with it. The one thing I forgot to take out Tuesday was a pair of three eighths screwlinks with chain links. As a result, I put on the only thing I had with me - a sub-standard screwlink. The combination of that and the smash link on the old bolt resulted in a tough pull - but the climb is short and you do have the option of backing up into a meadow to lessen the friction and the ensuing battle while retrieving your rope. I will get back up there soon and get the appropriate links on the hangers.

[climberdude]

I removed the single Leeper hanger and bolt at the top of Palisade Pinnacle and replaced it with two modern bolts and rappel quicklinks & rappel rings.  I also replaced the single lead bolt on The Lamb today.  JC, nice job on the rappel bolts for Brittle Palace.

[Brad Young]

I removed the single Leeper hanger and bolt at the top of Palisade Pinnacle and replaced it with two modern bolts and rappel quicklinks & rappel rings.  I also replaced the single lead bolt on The Lamb today.  JC, nice job on the rappel bolts for Brittle Palace.

Hey, you're not allowed to be down there on weekdays!

[JC w KC redux]

I removed the single Leeper hanger and bolt at the top of Palisade Pinnacle and replaced it with two modern bolts and rappel quicklinks & rappel rings.  I also replaced the single lead bolt on The Lamb today.  JC, nice job on the rappel bolts for Brittle Palace.

I'll add those to the Master List - thanks!

Did you climb the Palace?

[climberdude]

Yes, I climbed Brittle Palace.  The name fits it.

[JC w KC redux]

Yes, I climbed Brittle Palace.  The name fits it.

I figured you did - especially since you were commenting on the anchor.
I didn't think that climb was Class Four but not many of them actually are.
I carry at least a light rack when checking out Class Four routes.
We thought maybe 5.2 with some fairly decent pro.
I placed a couple medium to large cams and tied off the tree and chockstone.
I wound around the back toward the top for the easiest way to the summit.
Tricky finding the start 
 

[climberdude]

I thought the rating was very easy fifth class, no harder than 5.2.  I also did many other climbs in that area.  The single lead protection bolt on Crumbling Castle - Original Route just beyond the chimney is in need of replacement.  It is a homemade bent aluminum hanger with a Star Dryvin bolt.

[JC w KC redux]

I thought the rating was very easy fifth class, no harder than 5.2.  I also did many other climbs in that area.  The single lead protection bolt on Crumbling Castle - Original Route just beyond the chimney is in need of replacement.  It is a homemade bent aluminum hanger with a Star Dryvin bolt.

Yes, I saw that some years ago when I did the 5.5 route.

Did you do that 5.6 Original Route? That thing looks nutty to me - death fall into the chimney.

The 2nd bolt on the 10a also needs replacing.

What else did you do? Give us the skinny on Quest for Mud 

[climberdude]

I did "Palisades Pinnacle - Northeast Face", "Palisades Pinnacle - East Face", "Monument", "Brittle Palace", "Tombstone - Regular Route", "Tombstone - Doc Holliday Direct" (scary), "Crumbing Castle - Regular Route" (scary), "Crumbling Castle - Original Route" (on top rope), and two variations of "Cave Pinnacle".  I did not trust doing the Original Route of Crumbling Castle on lead because I could not find a good rope solo anchor at the base and the protection in the chimney is probably horrible, i.e., would not hold a fall.  I looked at "Low Peaks", but will have to do that another day.

[Zay]

Machete direct

I have it on good authority that 1 of the bolts for the final bolt ladder, I think the last one, Shifts outwards. I think the guy might have a picture all see if I can get one from him, But I think he said it was one of the boats with the large double hanger thing.  I believe he climbed it roughly 3 months ago.