Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[Zay]

regarding my last post...

just climbed West Face, which includes final two pitches of machete direct. i didnt notice any bolts shifting on me, though quite a few of those suckers are pretty damn old!

[Brad Young]

...though quite a few of those suckers are pretty damn old!

So am I. You got a problem with that?

(Did you do Los Banditos yet - oh yeah, it's closed right now isn't it?)

[JC w KC redux]

regarding my last post...

just climbed West Face, which includes final two pitches of machete direct. i didnt notice any bolts shifting on me, though quite a few of those suckers are pretty damn old!

There are definitely still some old bolts on the climb.
From what I remember, most of the critical ones are in decent shape or have been replaced.
I haven't been on p4 but I don't remember anything manky on p3 and you can tell the stuff on p1 and 2 look decent from the ground. People may have worked on it over the years with no reports - maybe as a result of trying to free the aid sections?
I do recall a star dryvin at the 5.8 crux on p5 but the move is so contrived that it is easy enough to avoid by staying in the crack. There is one more star above that but the move is easy and then you just run it for the rest of the last pitch after placing a piece - I only remember getting in one decent piece of gear. The anchor pitch 5 has old bolts but there are also gear placements and safety in the number of bolts.

Here is the only rebolt info I have - it's posted on the rebolt Master List

784 – Machete Direct – p2 anchor - Hildenbrand, Cummins, Jan 2013
784 - Machete Direct - p3 belay hangers - Hildenbrand, Cummins, Jan 2014
784 – Machete Direct - p3, 2nd bolt -  Hildenbrand, Jan 2015
 

[JC w KC redux]

So am I. You got a problem with that?

(Did you do Los Banditos yet - oh yeah, it's closed right now isn't it?)

Los Banditos is okay except for the 4th pitch - as long as you go left after pitch 3 (down the Rappel Bypass) you won't get on the section of Old Original that is sensitive.

[Zay]

JC, roger that i definitely never felt like i was "gunna die" from any of the bolts. in fact i was surprised by how well intact some of the quarter inchers looked.

Brad, I was actually trying to convince Megan to do los banditos yesterday! but shes got a wrist injury and was afraid thr cruxes might be a bit too much. so i went into the shower scratching my suddzy head thinking, "what the hell do i want to do today... something different..." 

West Face was the eureka conclusion. We had a blast, though i do have to say that parts of that third class traverse were pretty ****** up! shortly after passing thr bolt ladder for deadilus you have to scramble over/around a nasty chunk of rock about the size of a fridge, you can see tunnels erroding through it, and a knock knock test concludes that you could probably dislodge the whole mo fo with a light kick.

fun adventure climb!

[JC w KC redux]

I worked on Pinch or Lynch Regular Route yesterday and was actually uncomfortably chilly.
Temp only got to 65 and there were wind gusts up to 28.
I got the anchor replaced, added chains and then dropped in for the 3 lead bolts.
I replaced the third, couldn't find the second and finished by replacing the first.
I'll have to go back to find and replace the second lead bolt.
If it's like the others, it is a star dryvin on an SMC Death hanger and evidently hard to see (imagine that).
Too bad F4 didn't put this route up with his pink hangers 

The top lead bolt





All the old junk. The anchor had one Leeper and one SMC Death hanger. All the replacement bolts are in the original holes.





and this is for clink. The step across you have to do to get out to the anchor.

[mynameismud]

That bolt looks bomber.

[JC w KC redux]

That bolt looks bomber.

Thanks F4 Jr.

[Zay]

hey JC,

which one is the death hanger? ive alwayd been told the old leeper hangers are the more trapezoidal looking ones... like with triangular angles...

are the SMC death hangers the rounder ones from your picture? im surprised that ive heard about leepers being sketchy but not about DMC "death hangers".

something new to watch out for!

would you recommend retreating from a route with the SMC DH's? or just clip it.,focus, and dont fall?

[squiddo]

Thanks F4 Jr.

Whoa, an honor and a slap!

[JC w KC redux]

hey JC,

which one is the death hanger? ive alwayd been told the old leeper hangers are the more trapezoidal looking ones... like with triangular angles...

are the SMC death hangers the rounder ones from your picture? im surprised that ive heard about leepers being sketchy but not about DMC "death hangers".

something new to watch out for!

would you recommend retreating from a route with the SMC DH's? or just clip it.,focus, and dont fall?

Sadly all the Leepers are suspect (recalled ages ago). The star dryvins can be really solid or at least feel that way. Two of the stars I pulled yesterday were tight but came completely out of the hole (lead sleeve and all) with the nail only halfway out. With a really good one, you have to pull the nail, then the sleeve and finally the lead sleeve. It should be a 3 stage process - not one. The bolt pictured looked and felt good but it was one of the ones that came out in one stage. The other one was one of the anchor bolts. Regardless of the bolt, the hangers cannot be trusted.
Here is a discussion of the Death hangers. In answer to your question, either choice is prudent. I can't tell you how many No Fall routes I have done at Pinns. Well...I could but that is a different story altogether  

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1675000/SMC-hangers

[JC w KC redux]

are the SMC death hangers the rounder ones from your picture?

Yep

[mynameismud]

If you take a really good look at it and it does not move, your probably fine.

[F4?]

Bolts looked perfectly fine.

Pink does match the pinnacles rock.

[clink]

If you take a really good look at it and it does not move, your probably fine.

 This applies to many of the posters here as well.

[mynameismud]

Oh, jeepers.  Clink that was good.

[F4?]

Damn clink!!!

[JC w KC redux]

Pinch or Lynch is done. I'll post officially later.

[waldo]

This applies to many of the posters here as well.

I'm not moving, Clink.

[Zay]

JC did you get my message? I have thursday off and am looking to learn some rebolting kung fu!