Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[mungeclimber]

http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/pin/rebolt.htm

http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/pinnacles.htm

http://pinnacles.org/climbing_info/route_info.php3?category=Rebolt


This is a sticky thread for rebolting candidates:

1. Rings should go on #314, Gerties SW Face Far Left. There are anchors, but getting down requires downclimbing a 4th class chimney (and not at all third class).  Request by Mungeclimber.
2. Little Sister Spire needs camo chains. Note that bolts are recessed from edge. It had someone's bright cordage for a rap station. This is a visible spire from the trail. Request by Mungeclimber and Squiddo.
3. Heaven's Gate - second to last bolt needs re-aligning. FA author has approved moving, [urlhttp://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=1587.0]if old hole is patched and new hardware uses stainless[/url].
4. Lucky 13. One hanger and bolt has galvanic corrosion but is fairly large bolt but potential thin type SMC hanger. Other anchor bolt reportedly flexing. Small diameter quick links need replacing with camo chain? They were small diameter. Request by JC.
5. Osiris - could use upgrade. Unknown "old" bolt condition. Request by JC.
6. Toog's Gallery - Lead bolts and anchor bolts at top of p1 look 1/4". Request by JC.
7. NE Corner of Monolith - Rusty Star Dryv needs replacing. However, "hanger" is special type "drilled piton". After inspection, brushing, and painting, it would be nice to leave the hanger in place if it appears ok. Possibly one of the last ones at Pinns. Request by JC and Mungeclimber.
8. Big Marmot anchor. Needs replacing smaller diameter rusty POS and camo chains.
9. No Smiles. First bolt is bad thin old SMC type hanger. Bolt appears to be good.

I'll try and add the list of already replaced items later...

[squiddo]

2. Little Sister Spire has someone's bright cordage for a rap station. Camouflaged hardware set for an easy pull would be ideal (chains) on this visible formation.

HA, nice....Munge that's F4's effort.

[mungeclimber]

Second to last bolt on Heaven's Gate needs to be re-aligned.

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=1586.msg17516#msg17516

check with Brad and Jim Lundeen to be sure, but signs point to kosher to move this.

[F4?]

Um, yeah. Brad told me to do it last year when I mentioned doing the route.

Hey, my sling is in pretty good shape.

Best to swap out for some camo'ed chains.

[Brad Young]

Yes, if anyone has the time, inclination and energy to move that bolt, please do so. Please carefully patch the old hole and use stainless steel though? I'll try to get to it this season myself too.

[F4?]

camo'ed chains as well would be nice.

[squiddo]

camo'ed chains as well would be nice.

But, but, the neon yellow cordolette so matched the rock

[F4?]

Let's set a HW update weekend for the area.

Of course, after the bird closures....

If we can get a date set, then we can get some HW from Greg or get Clint to pitch in.

And can you believe squiddo always matches his shirt to pants & helmet?

[mungeclimber]

Svelt rebolting threads!


It's all about style! Do you even know what the stanDaRdS are?

[MUCCI]

I have tons of ASCA anchors and hangers.  I ran out of a box of the standard SS replacement 3.25" that Greg B gave me. 

10 feet or so of pinnacles drilling.  Much happier climbing.


I will call for resupply on the bolts, Just let me know.

[F4?]

Why not stop off at home depot and get a box? They are pretty cheap.

Great to hear mucci has the connection.

[squiddo]

Why not stop off at home depot and get a box? They are pretty cheap.

Great to hear mucci has the connection.

F4- are you posting with a newborn? Pay attention

[F4?]

Sisters rebolting next week? Say 26th??

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Clint and I rebolted Tugboat last Wednesday.  Clint found a bolt hole with a Star Dryvin without hanger in it at the base of the steep water streak so he put in a 3/8"x3.75" SS Rawl 5-piece(all bolts we replaced were with the same type which are provided to us by the ASCA) which can be used as the first belay.

I replaced the first protection bolt in the streak which was a 1/4"x1.5" rawl splitshaft with homemade(non-heat treated) aluminum hanger.  Clint replaced the second protection bolt which was one of those "drill a 3/8" hole and fill it with a 1/4" bolt numbers"  that unfortunately seem to abound at the Pinnnacles.  It is worth noting that there is a lot of moss on the upper portions of the water streak so when the next ascent happens in about 2025 this bolt may be overgrown with moss.

Clint found a 1/4" split shaft with a Longware hanger at the top of the water streak where it gets really easy and the climb is over so he removed it.  Also, we removed the single, 3/8" Star Dryvin with Longware hanger which was the rappel anchor and moved the rappel to the southwest corner of the pinnacle where I drilled two bolts and installed quick links and 3/8" chain.

You can now rappel about 80-85' to the west side of the formation, just uphill from where the climb starts.

BTW, some of the rock on this formation is really hard!

[Brad Young]

 ... so when the next ascent happens in about 2025 this bolt may be overgrown with moss.

I laughed out loud. That is indeed a really obscure formation to work on.

Thanks as always for the rebolting, Bruce and Clint.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

It took two trips by Clint and me, one trip by Clint himself, and one trip by my friend Frosty and me to rebolt the Balconies Regular Route and because we couldn't do everything in parallel I spent a lot of time hanging in slings looking over at Tugboat.  So, I thought it would be a nice to go over there and climb and rebolt it.  Turned out to be a true Pinnacles adventure and I am(knock on wood) still poison oak free!

[mynameismud]

Wow, rebolted the Regular Route.  That is a lot of bolts. Will have to give that one another go.  Thank you for the info on Tugboat.  A little surprised you did not add a TR while you were there.

[mungeclimber]

thx guys!

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

One comment on the removal of the 'superfluous' bolt.  Having the complete history of the climbing routes to an area is pretty important when rebolting.  I own every guidebook to the Pinnacles and since none of them even mentioned that bolt it was OK to removed it, especially since it wasn't protecting anything.  Sometimes, when you come upon unexpected bolts there are some hard decisions to be made.  Luckily, this wasn't one of those times.

[JC w KC redux]

I was leading Alias Bandit Bench this past weekend and noticed someone had put some of the small gauge quicklinks at the anchor for p1 which is shared with Lucky 13. I didn't rappel from there but obviously someone has. One of the links wasn't tightened, so I took care of that. There is no equalization unless at least one chain were to be added and I also wouldn't trust my rope end to pull through those smaller gauge links (haven't ever tried it). Would it be okay to add some bigger links and add one chain to equalize that anchor? I'd be willing to do it if you can tell me where to get the right kind of chain. I already have a supply of large gauge quicklinks and a wrench to tighten.

I solo'ed the Easy Route on Osiris a couple weeks ago and there are no rings or chains on those summit anchors. There are 3 hangers on older bolts and a star dryvin that looks a little newer than the others. I forgot to take a pic. It would be nice to have that one updated, although I doubt it sees much action with only 2 routes. I left a quicklink on the hanger with the star dryvin for a belayed downclimb at the insistence of my pard/KC.

thanks,

 JC