Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[clink]

Old hangers are cool too but unfortunately that old hardware eventually will get replaced.

I agree that this is the case with the generic multitude of hardware, of the unique and personal(stamped) need to stay and get a bolt in good rock near to the original bolt.  Please

[NOAL]

I thought the discussion was about a piton.  Where have hangers with personalized markings been removed?

Also, could it be possible that the fixed pin had become loose from recent rain, high route traffic, etc? Maybe someone climbing the route removed it without any tools because it was loose.  Kind of like the missing hanger on Erectile Dysfunction?

[clink]

Also, could it be possible that the fixed pin had become loose from recent rain, high route traffic, etc?

Yes, most probable. It was driven straight down behind a flake which may have moved. I will let you know if the replacement rings, but the placement was a beauty that would hold if hand placed IMO.

[NOAL]

Could it be used as a directional for TR?  It's been about 8 years since i' ve climbed that route. Can't remember.

Replace it and report back. 

[JC w KC redux]

I thought the discussion was about a piton.  Where have hangers with personalized markings been removed?

Also, could it be possible that the fixed pin had become loose from recent rain, high route traffic, etc? Maybe someone climbing the route removed it without any tools because it was loose.  Kind of like the missing hanger on Erectile Dysfunction?

It was. I just had to bring up the discussion of replacing worn pins again and clink's mind wanders.
There are only a couple cases I can think of where people got emotional about removing old hardware.
The bad thing about RK's hangers is even though they are really cool and historic, they are the lever out type usually with smallish holes and compared with the modern hangers they are thin and potentially weak.
I wouldn't replace a bolt with out replacing the hanger and I don't know anyone else that has done that either.
The Merry Cranksters left the old bolts in cobbles on Fifty Meter Must and I assume placed the new bolts close to them in matrix. Trying to remove bolts from cobbles (if they are fairly small) could definitely alter the route.
I still haven't climbed that route to see exactly what they did.

I totally understand the historic context and the sentimentality and I always try to keep that in mind if I am working to restore an old route. No one wants to see the history disappear but to me the real legacy is the route itself because it will last longer than the hardware (well...maybe...it is after all Mud and Crud).

I agree with your assessment of the piton disappearance Nelkins. Very likely that is what happened.

[Brad Young]

I totally understand the historic context and the sentimentality and I always try to keep that in mind if I am working to restore an old route.

That's a hard balancing act, and you do it well (leaning as you do a bit in favor of safety over history). I think the vast majority of climbers love the history, but if they had to choose safety or history, they'd choose just like you do.

Obviously it's possible to preserve both too.

[JC w KC redux]

The 4th bolt on Ali Baba was reported as rusty and loose on 5-8-17.

Part of what the person that reported it stated:

I contemplated taking it off or hand-tightening and hand-tightening seemed better (followed by immediate email to someone who can fix it). So I HAND TIGHTENED it.

I appreciate the report and the fact that the nut was hand tightened rather than removed.
I added a suggestion to the Rebolting Master List for people that find loose hardware.

[F4?]

Clink,
Regarding the missing Piton, nope not me. I'd suspect that guy with the shaved head, always lowers a rope from the top and climbs back up....very suspicious.

Please replace and replace the one on Jorgies extension....

 

[clink]

rusty and loose

 Yosomighty did climb it a few weeks ago.

[JC w KC redux]

I was out yesterday working on the west side.
I replaced the old 1st bolt on Passion Play. The bolt was a split shaft. It was crooked, rusty and in bad rock - the hollowness of the rock where it was placed was disturbing. The puller tool Bruce gave me removed the bolt with appalling ease.

I met a fun couple at the crag - Neil and Tami(sp?).
Tami got the 2nd ascent on See Ya Crater Alligator and also was the first to clip the replaced bolt on Passion Play.

I also managed to get up to Rumbling Rampart and replaced the anchor. One of the bolts was some kind of quarter inch stud and the other was a wedge bolt that pulled out fairly easy with the puller tool. I was surprised and pleased that I could pull out a wedge bolt with the puller tool. I'll have to go back and work on the lead bolts.

[Brad Young]

...Tami got the 2nd ascent on See Ya Crater Alligator and also was the first to clip the replaced bolt on Passion Play.

NOOOoooo, I wanted that second ascent  

[JC w KC redux]

I replaced the lead bolts on Rumbling Rampart yesterday (5,3,2,1). Temperatures were very pleasant in the sun. The pulling tool that Bruce gave me worked like a charm on bolts 5 and 1. The other 2 needed coaxing by other means since the shafts were five sixteenths. Bolt 2 took only a tiny bump with the crowbar and then slid out with my fingers 

It was very gratifying to get all these done and be able to reuse all the old holes. The bolt Mark replaced years ago still looks good (carbon steel) and it was tight (I checked the torque). The climb is in fine shape now from top to bottom     

[clink]

in fine shape now from top to bottom

Thanks again JC for your labor!!!

[Brad Young]

The climb is in fine shape now from top to bottom     

Yeah. Except for the rock 

Damn, I can't believe I said that - I'm supposed to be a Pinnacles fanatic.

[JC w KC redux]

Yeah. Except for the rock  
Damn, I can't believe I said that - I'm supposed to be a Pinnacles fanatic.

All the more reason to replace the bolts and get another 5.6 in shape for aspiring leaders.

Pot Kettle Mr. Are You Inexperienced

Speaking of...I hiked past Agent Orange yesterday...

[JC w KC redux]

Here is my pulling tool - thanks Bruce!, the giant Kentucky socket set I use to turn it, one of those weird Eye-tallion hangers w camo paint and my custom three eights slotted chisel slash tuning fork. Those are the 4 bolts I took off Rumbling Rampart. The chisel is heavy but it is the bomb for getting something started when the pulling tool won't work. I need to make another one with the next size smaller chisel and a quarter inch channel to replace my nearly worn out quarter inch tuning fork. Tool steel holds up much better and there is less flex than the slotted Lost Arrow pitons used for the old tuning forks. Out with the old...in with the new...

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

John,

nice work!  We put a washer between the rock and the end of the tool to help get a good, straight pull and also to help keep from scarring the rock and bunging up the end of the tool.  BTW, when the end of the tool gets a bit bunged up, you can use a hacksaw to cut it off.  Just be careful to make the end as parallel(square?) as possible so you get a good straight(as possible) pull.

BTW, the two wedge bolts on the left in your photo are pretty short.  With the longer ones were were dealing with on Discovery Wall last season it was much easier to replace them after spinning them with a spinning tool.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Clint and I finished up the rebolting on Shake and Bake.  All protection bolts from bottom to top are stainless steel as are most of the bolts at the belays(there's one plated 5-piece at the 2nd belay).  Also, you can now actually see the bolts on the first pitch.  No guess work required.

[Brad Young]

Clint and I finished up the rebolting on Shake and Bake.  All protection bolts from bottom to top are stainless steel as are most of the bolts at the belays(there's one plated 5-piece at the 2nd belay).  Also, you can now actually see the bolts on the first pitch.  No guess work required.

Wow! Thanks for the work (including J.C. in this thanks too - all three of you do so much re-bolting).

[JC w KC redux]

Wow! Thanks for the work (including J.C. in this thanks too - all three of you do so much re-bolting).

I do it because I love Pinnies but I also appreciate the occasional atta boy.
Bruce and Clint are hard core machines...often hanging for hours with headlamps in the dark to finish what they started.
My hat is off to ya fellas