Author Topic: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread  (Read 5730012 times)

JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1040 on: May 13, 2019, 11:41:17 AM »

Sounds pretty ghastly.
Glad I don't climb there.
Thanks for sharing.
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F4?

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1041 on: May 13, 2019, 12:11:33 PM »
Quote
Not worth its own thread, but I'd like to drop a few words about the small Lake Tahoe/I-80 corridor crags that Squiddo and I climbed on last Friday and Saturday. To say the least it could use a few days of careful and intelligent attention like you give Pinnacles.

I bet the developers were on a tight budget, may have been staying at the Ritz Carlton in Truckee.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1042 on: June 01, 2019, 08:34:49 AM »
Cross-posting from Quest for Mud (Special Edition) since this also pertains to rebolting.

Kat and I spent the day at Peace of Heaven on Wednesday.
The flies were awful.
The climb wasn't too bad and now it is completely rebolted.
Both of the lead bolts were in some nasty, crumbly recesses that made it especially difficult to get the tuning fork under the star dryvin nails. I had to do significant amounts of carving down and around both bolt locations to get the old stuff out, create proper surfaces for the replacements and allow the draws to hang correctly. The nail on the first lead bolt was under-driven but the hanger was tight and both nails were unusually difficult to extract (surprising given the lousy rock quality). It was a similar situation on the summit with the old, single-bolt anchor. I could write a book about all the things I have learned rebolting.
Here is a composite of photos showing in clockwise order the old first bolt (straight on), from the side (to show the protruding nail), the replacement bolt and the replacement anchor with chains. The second replacement lead bolt is not shown but is every bit as pretty as the first. 



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JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1043 on: September 21, 2019, 12:39:41 PM »
Cross-posting and slightly modified from the Quest for Mud thread.


Kat and I finished the work at Crowley yesterday (started in December 2018).
All the old bolts were replaced just prior to the 2019 Closures.
Yesterday was spent removing the remaining old anchor bolts.

All the Crowley Towers bolted climbs now have replacement bolts (lead and anchor) and all the old bolts (save one old anchor bolt on Tower Three) have been removed (see the Rebolting Master List). Several of the old climbs have no protection. There are also some new routes out there - check out the Newly Established and Found Routes list.

Of particular interest was one of the old anchor bolts (the right bolt) on Tower One. That bolt was only 1 1/2 inches long and no crowbar was needed for removal. It was a star dryvin but the head on the nail did not overlap the sleeves. Not sure what kind of nail it is but definitely not the correct/stock item. The whole assembly came out after a few taps under it with a tuning fork. Look at the scrunched up lead sleeve on that gem (lower left). For those not familiar with star dryvins - the lead sleeve should be at the bottom of the sleeves and provides all the pull-out strength. It's a miracle this thing did not come loose.

Notice that the right bolt is the top bolt - so all the weight would have gone on it - and it has one of those lovely aluminum lever-out homemade tab hangers. The biner was a leaver that someone put on the lower bolt to keep the rope from getting trapped under the smashlink (Brad?). The picture on the right shows the size of the nail head nicely (it barely overlaps the sleeve edges). At least whoever constructed this anchor placed a second bolt. All the other anchors on the Towers were single bolts. Gotta love it.



 
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mynameismud

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1044 on: September 22, 2019, 05:33:09 PM »
nice work
Here's to sweat in your eye

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1045 on: September 22, 2019, 05:35:28 PM »
Hardware looked okay.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1046 on: September 22, 2019, 05:49:36 PM »
nice work

Thanks.

Hardware looked okay.

Not exactly an unexpected response  :lol: :out:
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1047 on: October 10, 2019, 06:03:11 PM »

Cut off from the world today by PG&E.
But that is a different story...altogether...

I was on the west side yesterday and rebolted Sombrero - two 1 1/2 x 1/4 inch split shafts - the second bolt had the hanger levered over the edge of a lodestone (and a significant crack in the lodestone from placing the bolt in it).
Both of the nuts on the studs were barely screwed on (no threads showing - end of stud flush with top of nut). The nut on the second bolt was too flimsy to use the tuning fork to get it out (popped right off) and the threads were too damaged to use my puller tool (I tried that first). It's amazing it ever stayed on there. The rust must have been holding it. Both studs were in the rock less than an inch. 
All good now.

Should be an interesting lead since the first bolt is too low and the second is too high (it was originally a two bolt, bolt ladder that went free). Reminds me of the Third Sister.
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clink

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1048 on: October 11, 2019, 01:54:46 PM »

 You have to where a sombrero to have a legit ascent.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

NOAL

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1049 on: October 11, 2019, 02:06:18 PM »
JC should just where a sombrero all the time.  If he climbs a lot of chimneys it will turn into a cowboy hat.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1050 on: October 11, 2019, 06:08:47 PM »
You have to where a sombrero to have a legit ascent.

Wear did you learn to speak ingles?
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NOAL

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1051 on: October 11, 2019, 06:40:02 PM »
Over hear.

F4?

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1052 on: October 11, 2019, 07:50:18 PM »
Low expectation
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clink

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1053 on: October 11, 2019, 08:17:53 PM »
I should have stuck with crash pads being large sanitary napkins.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1054 on: October 12, 2019, 06:55:40 AM »
I should have stuck with crash pads being large sanitary napkins.

More like Depends.
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briham89

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1055 on: October 21, 2019, 03:20:58 PM »
The anchors on Wet Kiss are VERY loose. The anchor consist of three bolts. One in the middle (and higher than the other two) and two ASCA bolts on the left and right side of the middle bolt. The middle bolt is fine.
The two ASCA bolts (5 piece) are extremely loose. You can visibly see the bolt moving when you try to move the hanger around. I'm guessing they will tighten up, but I unfortunately did not have a wrench on me.

There is a lead bolt on the big pucker that is also not even finger tight (super loose). I can't recall if it was at the first or second bulge, but it should be obvious. It should be easy to tighten this up after dealing with the wet kiss anchor.

I am happy to go do this, but let me know if someone gets to it before I do.

squiddo

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1056 on: October 21, 2019, 03:41:53 PM »

I am happy to go do this, but let me know if someone gets to it before I do.

Whoa, love that route. Same here on the service.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1057 on: October 21, 2019, 03:43:30 PM »
The anchors on Wet Kiss are VERY loose. The anchor consist of three bolts. One in the middle (and higher than the other two) and two ASCA bolts on the left and right side of the middle bolt. The middle bolt is fine.
The two ASCA bolts (5 piece) are extremely loose. You can visibly see the bolt moving when you try to move the hanger around. I'm guessing they will tighten up, but I unfortunately did not have a wrench on me.

There is a lead bolt on the big pucker that is also not even finger tight (super loose). I can't recall if it was at the first or second bulge, but it should be obvious. It should be easy to tighten this up after dealing with the wet kiss anchor.

I am happy to go do this, but let me know if someone gets to it before I do.

Thanks for the heads up.
Those bolts should tighten up. I have plans to go down there for some more work on Discovery soon, so I'll let you know. Thanks for reporting that and I encourage you to buy a small adjustable wrench and put it on a biner - then make it standard to put it on your harness every time you climb anything with bolts. If anyone besides you is reading this (I know you know this), I want to warn folks that it is important not to overtighten stainless 5 piece bolts (first you have to be able to positively identify a stainless bolt).
Looks like you can drop in to that anchor from the top anchor on Trauma. There is also a single bolt belay on top for Portent's Right Finish. I replaced that a few years ago. Looks like it is heating up this week and then dropping back down for the weekend.
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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1058 on: October 24, 2019, 06:48:26 PM »
Just got home after spending the entire day at Discovery Wall working. I lost track of how many times I dropped in to check and tighten bolts on various routes. 6 or 7 times I think. I also worked on the rappel anchor above Swallow Crack. I'll report results and post some pics tomorrow - time for a shower and food!
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briham89

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Re: Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread
« Reply #1059 on: October 24, 2019, 09:55:29 PM »
You da man!  ;D