Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[clink]

 Six days late!

[JC w KC redux]

^^^
I'm always an April fool.

I was thinking too - after all that work Brad put into his brief response to nateb, he might consider getting a personalized plate like Saul Goodman has on his caddy - LWYRUP.

If you don't get it, you Better Call Saul or start Breaking Bad.

[NOAL]

Last season starts this month!

[Brad Young]

^^^

Once again, I'm surrounded by freaks.

But hey, thanks to Aaron at least I can use apostrophes again.

[John.k.moore]

Seems like the place to mention this, when we were coming off Costanoan the other day the right side hanger at the top of pitch 3 was flexing inwards when we weighted it on rappel. Maybe there's a Pinnacles friendly way to rappel or something that we missed. But the hanger was definitely flexing the way we set it up. Oh, and just so it's clear, not the flange of the hanger flexing but the whole bolt, hanger, and everything.

[JC w KC redux]

Seems like the place to mention this, when we were coming off Costanoan the other day the right side hanger at the top of pitch 3 was flexing inwards when we weighted it on rappel. Maybe there's a Pinnacles friendly way to rappel or something that we missed. But the hanger was definitely flexing the way we set it up. Oh, and just so it's clear, not the flange of the hanger flexing but the whole bolt, hanger, and everything.

Definitely the place to mention it.
The only thing that sticks with me is your phrase "the way we set it up".
Isn't that anchor just rappel rings you can thread? There should only be one way to thread it.
I can take a look at it when I get back to the park.
If you carry a camera - it would be really helpful to take a picture of anything in question so I (and other rebolting-experienced folks on here) can see exactly what types of bolts and hardware are being discussed.

Here is an older pic I have of that anchor. The rappel bolts were placed way too far apart for rappel rings - which puts a lot of inward force on the anchor and may act to loosen the bolts over time. The amount of chain needed for that spread would be insane. It would be easier to just move one of the bolts or couple one long chain from the middle bolt with the right bolt's rings. I am guessing it was the sleeve bolt (rightmost) that was flexing. In the interim (of me getting out there), if someone is spooked by the flexing - they can always leave something on the middle bolt to tie it in with the other two. 



thanks,

JC

[John.k.moore]

Definitely the place to mention it.
The only thing that sticks with me is your phrase "the way we set it up".
Isn't that anchor just rappel rings you can thread? There should only be one way to thread it.
I can take a look at it when I get back to the park.
If you carry a camera - it would be really helpful to take a picture of anything in question so I (and other rebolting-experienced folks on here) can see exactly what types of bolts and hardware are being discussed

thanks,

JC

This is obviously in the gym but it's exactly how we set it up. I mean, yes, unless I'm missing something, I'm fairly certain this is the only way to set up the rappel without leaving gear behind. But I do recognize that I'm hardly an expert. I was definitely getting American death triangle vibes on the setup and when that bolt started flexing, I just wanted to be gone. And yes, as you guessed, it's the rightmost bolt that's flexing.

[clink]

 it's obviously the length/breadth issue with a dash of hanger alignment.

 JC can fix it with a simple flex of a lobe and I should accompany him.

[clink]

I was definitely getting American death triangle vibes on the setup

 I was well acquainted in my youth, with the possible and very substantial dangers of the American Death Triangle. The church we attended during my teens was emphatic about just how exceedingly dangerous its casual use was to my future existence. Rules were in place to make sure I wouldn't ever gaze on one and face a sure and sudden demise. So I was protected in my formative years, from seeing many bikini bottoms. You know it only takes one...
 
 One piece suits with an attached skirt, for modesty, were allowed.

[Brad Young]

^^^

Says the man with six daughters (all gorgeous like their mother). It seems like the church’s lesson didn’t take very well.

[clink]

It seems like the church’s lesson didn’t take very well.

 So I have been told.

[JC w KC redux]

I was definitely getting American death triangle vibes on the setup and when that bolt started flexing, I just wanted to be gone.

Careful what you wish for!

In all seriousness - thanks for the confirmation.

[John.k.moore]

Careful what you wish for!

It’s like the scene from The Dark Knight…
Joker: [holds girl out window]
Batman: Let her go!
Joker: Very poor choice of words [drops girl out window]

[Gavin]

Just a heads up - I replaced the rappel rings on Wet Kiss with mussy hooks (courtesy of Bruce Hildenbrand). The rings were getting a bit worn and rusty, and Bruce gave me a number of mussy hooks for the popular Bear Gulch routes that get a lot of climbing activity.

In the near future I'm hoping to adjust the chains on Stupendous Man - I don't feel they are as equalized as they could be and it should be an easy fix to modify the length of one or both of the existing chains.

[squiddo]

Just a heads up - I replaced the rappel rings on Wet Kiss with mussy hooks (courtesy of Bruce Hildenbrand). The rings were getting a bit worn and rusty, and Bruce gave me a number of mussy hooks for the popular Bear Gulch routes that get a lot of climbing activity.

In the near future I'm hoping to adjust the chains on Stupendous Man - I don't feel they are as equalized as they could be and it should be an easy fix to modify the length of one or both of the existing chains.

Amazing thanks

[F4?]

Thanks Gavin.

Cantaloupe Death could use some shiner new anchors.
I’d be happy to help.

[Gavin]

Just a heads up - I upgraded the Stupendous Man anchor today. I replaced the left-side chain with a shorter length, and then added screw links and mussy hooks at the end of each chain. The anchor now feels properly equalized for lowering from Stupendous Man and Power Point.

[Gavin]

Another update - on Saturday (June 24th) I changed up the anchor setup for P.O.D. a bit at Monolith. It now has an equalized setup for P.O.D. using the leftmost bolt and the middle, upper bolt (which is newer, stainless steel, and has a chain length attached to make it equalized with the left bolt). Both have screwlinks attached to mussy hooks now. (The rightmost anchor bolt has a spinning hanger that used to serve as the other anchor bolt with the leftmost bolt using screwlinks and rap rings... Now it has no gear attached.)

I was hoping to upgrade the Cantaloupe Death anchor too but a party was climbing that route... hopefully I can get to that later in the season.

[JC w KC redux]

Thanks Gavin. I am glad you are doing the work.

[ElEf]

Hi, long time lurker, first time poster! Has Anchor Scream (28) in the Ignorable Cliffs been rebolted? It's been a while since we checked it out, but it was all homemade galvanized angle iron hangers with rusted bolts.

Thanks for all the incredible work you all do out there!