Official Rebolting and Route Hardware suggestion thread

[NOAL]

There's a re-bolting master list that John maintains here on the site.  I don't see Anchor Scream on there.  Next time I am in that area I can check it out.  Thanks for posting on the forum.  If you go to Pinns on the reg please post more!

[Marco]

Went out there Jan 29 with Gavin this year. Was not rebolted.
The anchors to the right that are used for the 5.11 and triangle skirt route consists of cold shuts and could also use replacement. Clock is ticking, those two routes might get another repeat by the time Brad's 3rd edition pinnacles guidebook comes out.

[NOAL]

The 3rd edition will be authored by AI Brad Young.  Just think if there was an Android Brad forever roaming Pinnacles between the months of Oct-May.  Would it continue to create lists and itinerary?  Maybe it would start work on "A Senior Citizen Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Park"  All the ratings would be bumped up and the Monolith wouldn't be in there.

[burnsbabe]

The 3rd edition will be authored by AI Brad Young.  Just think if there was an Android Brad forever roaming Pinnacles between the months of Oct-May.  Would it continue to create lists and itinerary?  Maybe it would start work on "A Senior Citizen Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Park"  All the ratings would be bumped up and the Monolith wouldn't be in there.

ClimbGPT, create me a list of route descriptions in the style of known Pinnacles Climbing crank Brad Young. Ensure all the routes have something odd about them, like a fixed pin, a third anchor bolt that uses a star dryvin that's been left for history and no other reason, or something similar. Routes should be no harder than 5.10d, so that BradBot can continue to climb all routes at Pinnacles at 5.10 or lower in Good Style (TM).

[Brad Young]

Two days without reception. Back to it only to find that I have not one but three of you that need beatings. Give me time, I’ll get to it….

[clink]

 Sounds like the android has the real Brad tied up somewhere in the Park.

[burnsbabe]

Anybody know how old the bolts and hangers are for the underground section of Subterranean Tango?

[mynameismud]

I could be wrong, but I think they are original.  Moves are not bad, one and a half moves then backs off. 

If you go down there check out Deck Chairs, good bolts and some fun moves.  Weird climb but kind of cool, I have done it a few times. 

[Brad Young]

I think they are original.

Tom Davis had comments about those bolts a few months ago on Mountain Project (where the route names are - naturally - screwed up). Have you seen those?

[burnsbabe]

Seeing it now. There isn't a separation for the full version vs just the above ground section on MP. I'd be interested in figuring out how to replace them, but I've only installed from scratch (which you know) vs rebolting.

[Brad Young]

Six of us got three critical bolts replaced on The Verdict with utterly fantastic glue ins. All six lead bolts on the route are now glue ins. The 20 plus year old first three glue ins on it still look as good as new.

Fun that both the first ascentionist and the guy who has climbed the route many hundreds of times were part of the crew.

Big learning day.

[Brad Young]

Rebolting The Verdict:

Clint working to remove bolt number two:







I finally remembered to use eye and ear protection:




Since Clint was able to fully extract the first two bolts (carbon steel sleeve bolts which he'd placed himself 37 years ago!!), we were able to drill out the old holes for new bolts one and two:







Gavin, Bruce and Brad replacing bolt six (and - for Gavin and Brad - learning the process of doing so):







Kurt and Steve replacing bolt number two (and learning!):







A well deserved lull (after he spent three continuous hours hanging on the rope and working):




Everyone agreed that Gavin was best qualified to find a new place for the new bolt number six (we could not extract that location's old bolt):

[briham89]

Rebolting The Verdict:

I finally remembered to use eye and ear protection:

Gavin, Bruce and Brad replacing bolt six (and - for Gavin and Brad - learning the process of doing so):

You'd think that would be normal kit at some point....but it somehow never made it into my bag. I'm sure it was nice to have.

How was the glue-in process? I haven't placed any. I'm guessing this would not work for ground up FA's because the glue needs time to dry?

[Brad Young]

^^^

Your guess is correct. No practical way to use glue ins on lead and honestly I think that using them as replacements will only be necessary for the 10 or 20 percent of the bolts in the park that get fallen on and/or hung on the most. (They're a lot of work and take a lot of gear and create a significant mess.)

On the other hand, we were all surprised at how quickly the glue started to harden. Except Bruce, who's done this before and who told us all that it would harden quickly.

Oh, and Steve, who can't seem to get over how easily the bolts slide into the fresh glue and to whom it seemed logical that they would slide out with the same ease. I'm not sure he trusts yet that it will or has hardened.