Author Topic: Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook (Read 745381 times)

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #40 on:** January 07, 2013, 08:33:37 AM »

Quote from: Brad Young on January 06, 2013, 10:37:54 PM

OK, I misunderstood you. Is it right now?
I originally led the route without the fifth bolt and found that scary too.

Yes - that looks good.
Good that you added the 5th bolt to the route considering all that choss.
Even that huge block at the top felt somewhat loose!

mungeclimber · « **Reply #41 on:** January 12, 2013, 11:22:01 PM »

Bad Ape is decidely not 5.10c at this time. Consensus of four climbers that can usually finaggle their way up 5.10c's. Everyone got shut down.

By contrast, most were able to pull the moves on Windmills.

I thought at first that perhaps the route was misdrawn on the topo, but even the old Rubine guide had it in as the 'scoop' to the right of No Smiles, not following the obvious line of cobbles out right, which goes btw.

Brad Young · « **Reply #42 on:** January 14, 2013, 12:07:08 PM »

I added a clarification today (# 22) regarding Crowley Towers - Tower Four.

F4? · « **Reply #43 on:** January 14, 2013, 12:47:53 PM »

Quote

Bad Ape is decidely not 5.10c at this time. Consensus of four climbers that can usually finaggle their way up 5.10c's. Everyone got shut down.

Guys are getting weak.

squiddo · « **Reply #44 on:** January 14, 2013, 03:41:34 PM »

Quote from: F4? on January 14, 2013, 12:47:53 PM

Guys are getting weak.

F4, we'll meet up with you yet don't worry!

mungeclimber · « **Reply #45 on:** January 14, 2013, 04:51:11 PM »

Quote from: F4? on January 14, 2013, 12:47:53 PM

Guys are getting weak.

pft

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #46 on:** January 17, 2013, 11:27:32 AM »

Addition Page 235 - The Three Bears. Only Baby Bear is listed with a top anchor. All three formations have two bolt anchors with chains.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #47 on:** January 18, 2013, 11:57:35 AM »

pg 378 FA info.

For the route No Smiles, that was Tom's lead. The ordering should be reversed.

How found: email exchange with Tom H.

Bruce Hildenbrand · « **Reply #48 on:** January 18, 2013, 03:31:31 PM »

Quote from: JC w KC redux on January 17, 2013, 11:27:32 AM

Addition Page 235 - The Three Bears. Only Baby Bear is listed with a top anchor. All three formations have two bolt anchors with chains.

Yup! My friend Frosty and I drilled all those anchor bolts and added the chains.

Brad Young · « **Reply #49 on:** February 24, 2013, 07:58:22 PM »

I added a correction today (#23) regarding Needle's Eye.

Atomizer · « **Reply #50 on:** March 28, 2013, 09:20:26 AM »

I don't know if this has been said before, but Tailspin gets 2 stars in my book. The route is starting to solidify. Just a few more pieces of mud to break off. Its a a sweet route.

F4? · « **Reply #51 on:** April 06, 2013, 07:29:20 PM »

Now a National Park....

waldo · « **Reply #52 on:** August 25, 2013, 06:17:32 PM »

Brad,

I was out by the Sisters with Aaron and Rosie yesterday taking advantage of early shade. Aaron made nice leads on Heaven's Gate and the 3rd sister, by the by. A question came to mind about Sister Five. The Wong Way is not quite clear to me. After passing the bolts and achieving the pedestal/ledge, did the first ascensionists continue around to the back and finish up the regular route, or did they hand traverse that scrofulous crack out onto the bulge and then head up?

Brad Young · « **Reply #53 on:** August 25, 2013, 07:03:53 PM »

Quote from: waldo on August 25, 2013, 06:17:32 PM

Brad,

I was out by the Sisters with Aaron and Rosie yesterday taking advantage of early shade. Aaron made nice leads on Heaven's Gate and the 3rd sister, by the by. A question came to mind about Sister Five. The Wong Way is not quite clear to me. After passing the bolts and achieving the pedestal/ledge, did the first ascensionists continue around to the back and finish up the regular route, or did they hand traverse that scrofulous crack out onto the bulge and then head up?

Bob, without looking at the route and my description, I have no idea at all. Remind me when I'm down there with you next and we'll look at it together.

F4? · « **Reply #54 on:** August 25, 2013, 08:03:22 PM »

Great to hear heaven's gate is getting traffic.

Was there a bee's nest on going the wong way? I think we used to go around.
But it's been years.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #55 on:** August 25, 2013, 08:45:07 PM »

Quote from: F4? on August 25, 2013, 08:03:22 PM

Great to hear heaven's gate is getting traffic.

Was there a bee's nest on going the wong way? I think we used to go around.
But it's been years.

We were out there a few weeks before Mr Mud's bday gathering and the large nest was still very active in the big, slanting horizontal on the lower part of Silhouette Arete. We passed as KC had just been stung the previous week when we were around the other side on 3rd sis NW face. Haven't been back.

Brad Young · « **Reply #56 on:** December 12, 2013, 03:59:52 PM »

I added today a correction regarding route 816, Pigeon Crack.

F4? · « **Reply #57 on:** December 16, 2013, 09:11:28 PM »

He best put out a new guidebook.

oldtopangalizard · « **Reply #58 on:** January 29, 2014, 12:44:03 PM »

Nice to know about Lonesome Bolt. I keep looking at that and think 'Hmmmm, looks run'. Won't think about it anymore.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #59 on:** January 29, 2014, 01:01:34 PM »

Quote from: oldtopangalizard on January 29, 2014, 12:44:03 PM

Nice to know about Lonesome Bolt. I keep looking at that and thinking Hmmmm looks run. Won't think about it anymore.

I led Sheepish - sketchy gear that quickly becomes useless after you leave the big knob shown on the topo and climb up through the runout on poor quality rock.
I imagine the rock quality is probably the same or worse above the crux of Lonesome.
The beefy single bolt anchor way up could be used to TR Lonesome.
I heard tell of a climber much better than myself who backed off Lonesome.

News:

Author Topic: Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook (Read 745381 times)