Author Topic: Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook  (Read 739519 times)

clink

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #160 on: December 24, 2016, 03:07:45 PM »
The Western Front route Y.F.T. acronym is for Yummy Frontal Tickles. FYI
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Brad Young

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #161 on: January 03, 2017, 12:13:14 PM »
At J.C.'s suggestion I added a (sort of) correction indicating that the topo for Shoot the Tube is now wrong by one bolt.

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #162 on: January 05, 2017, 04:50:44 PM »
At J.C.'s suggestion I added a (sort of) correction indicating that the topo for Shoot the Tube is now wrong by one bolt.

Weird - not the post but the fact that I didn't see it until I saw a "new" on the sticky.
EDIT - I just missed it. It was back 56 posts.
Thanks for doing/clarifying that.
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Brad Young

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #163 on: January 16, 2017, 07:40:29 PM »
I added correction number 37 regarding route 354, "Looking For the Past."


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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #164 on: January 17, 2017, 09:52:21 AM »
I added correction number 37 regarding route 354, "Looking For the Past."

Looking For the Past - aka The Kissing Boulders  :lol:

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JC w KC redux

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #165 on: February 05, 2017, 12:34:21 PM »
Correction suggestion:

Route 464 South Toe. The lead bolt is three quarters of the way up the route. The current description says half way up.
I also think the description might be better as: Chimney as high as possible, clip a bolt and then commit to that side.
I just added the phrase clip a bolt although that is going to be obvious right about the time you get there. It just isn't obvious from below when you are in it. The bolt can be seen if you stand way back from the formation.

The anchor has been replaced and is set for rappel down the west side. The rappel is 45 feet.


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Brad Young

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #166 on: January 08, 2018, 09:38:36 AM »
I just added correction #38 regarding the mixed free/aid route South Yak - South Face.

Our efforts Saturday were partly a rebolting and partly an exploration to determine how far and to what end the recently discovered third pitch went.

It was a fun and successful effort.

While I replaced spinner bolts low, Jennifer belayed Bruce's lead of the aid portion of the climb. The second pitch is slightly overhanging and physical and the third, traversing pitch, is awkward as hell (equally so on lead and follow). The remaining old bolts add spice to the lead (trust me - you'll see the photos below and NOT want to hang on those that remain!).

I followed Bruce (on aid of course) to the anchor and we rappelled off. Here's me following (and grunting, slicing my hand and swearing) the third pitch:







Bruce rapping off:




Me rapping off:







And, the stars of this post, the old bolts that made up the aid ladder (all are quarter inch with screw tops). Imagine hanging on these with no new bolts for backup (yuck!):







J.C., I assume you can extrapolate enough information to complete the post about the rebolting effort on the master list? If not, lemme know and I'll fill in any gaps. And although Bruce and Clint were the heavy re-bolters on this one, you and I and Jennifer Wang and Kathy and Tricia all played a role (the latter two were ground support for us when we replaced a few of the bolts).

Anyone looking for some tricky aid climbing practice should give this one a go. It's certainly not an "average" aid training bolt ladder!


clink

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #167 on: January 09, 2018, 07:56:01 AM »
 Steep!

Quote
I followed Bruce (on aid of course) to the anchor and we rappelled off. Here's me following (and grunting, slicing my hand and swearing) the third pitch:

 You sweared? Must'a been tuff.
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briham89

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #168 on: March 10, 2018, 11:55:19 AM »
You sweared? Must'a been tuff.

I've heard Brad swear changing from shorts to pants  :smilewinkgrin:

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #169 on: March 10, 2018, 11:59:57 AM »
I've heard Brad swear changing from shorts to pants  :smilewinkgrin:

Funny, he didn't swear yesterday  :biggrin:

He hiked up in shorts but with the intermittent cloud cover and the uncertainty of how long we would be on the first deck of Quadruple Decker, he changed back.
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Brad Young

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #170 on: March 10, 2018, 01:08:40 PM »

I've heard Brad swear changing from shorts to pants  :smilewinkgrin:


Hey punk, don't you have some icicle to hang off of for a while?

waldo

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #171 on: March 10, 2018, 08:31:41 PM »

While I replaced spinner bolts low, Jennifer belayed Bruce's lead of the aid portion of the climb. The second pitch is slightly overhanging and physical and the third, traversing pitch, is awkward as hell (equally so on lead and follow). The remaining old bolts add spice to the lead (trust me - you'll see the photos below and NOT want to hang on those that remain!).

bolts that made up the aid ladder (all are quarter inch with screw tops). Imagine hanging on these with no new bolts for backup (yuck!):

Bomber.

mynameismud

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #172 on: March 10, 2018, 11:25:24 PM »
Nice work, looks cool.
Here's to sweat in your eye

clink

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #173 on: March 11, 2018, 08:03:38 AM »
Quote
Bomber.

 Aerial Destruction Device you mean.
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clink

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #174 on: March 11, 2018, 08:10:24 AM »

 
Quote
Funny, he didn't swear yesterday  Big Grin

 He should get the job of announcing the second coming.
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Zay

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #175 on: March 12, 2018, 05:52:53 PM »
Page 210, route 529. Condor Conduit- Regular... "Approach as for Condor Condom Condiment but..."

clink

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #176 on: March 12, 2018, 06:27:27 PM »
 
 Keeping it safe.
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Brad Young

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #177 on: March 14, 2018, 03:01:45 PM »
I added correction number 39 (regarding North Goal Post) today.

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #178 on: March 17, 2018, 01:06:00 PM »
I added correction number 39 (regarding North Goal Post) today.

Might be the easiest route I will ever do. Walk up, touch the second bolt, walk away :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup: :ihih:
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook
« Reply #179 on: March 17, 2018, 01:19:26 PM »
Page 210, route 529. Condor Conduit - Regular... "Approach as for Condor Condom Condiment but..."

A lovely leftover from the original name. Maybe waldo can elaborate. Where is waldo? Last I saw, he was in the Valley.

P.S. I heard that there is a lot of PO to get to and up the chimney - might still need a protective covering :lol:

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