Heading out to the West Side like a couple of bandits.

[cobbledik]

The ladyfriend and I will be up at the campground Fri-Sun this weekend. Planning on driving around to the West Side Sat morning to do Los Banditos before the walls close for the birdies.

We'll be at Campsite 10 and she'll be driving up from Burbank starting at 6pm, I'll be driving there from Concord at 3pm so I'll be sitting there waiting for her to show up so come by and visit. I'll probably have brews.

Kevin

[MUCCI]

Kevin,

Why not walk over from the east side?

45min right to the start of your route.

Just a thought, good luck on that route.  Brad keeps touting how far those bolts are apart in the ladder, Little does he know there are tools for such hinderences!

Cheers!

[mungeclimber]

oh man, sorry Kevin. I'm heading up for ice this weekend with the rare weather opportunity we have.

I realized late last night, this weekend is it. 

My Regular Route effort on Balconies will have to wait.









question:  if Lava Falls forms up with ice, do the balconies closures remain in effect? 

[F4?]

Brad keeps touting how far those bolts are apart in the ladder, Little does he know there are tools for such hinderences

It's not the bolt spacing, rather the mandatory free climbing! All holds are bomber.

[Brad Young]

This will be a second ascent (as far as I know). Let us know how it goes.

[cobbledik]

We plan on documenting the ascent (or attempt) so we'll def report back. 

I had planned on having the GF re-aid the ladder for the following of the pitch, she's 5'4" though, would it be better to just have her jug it or will she be able to manage if the bolts are far apart?

[Brad Young]

I think the aid bolts are pretty far apart. Jim and I are each just over six feet, and Eric isn't short. And I know we drilled as high as we could, even top stepping while in second steps of the aiders (when we could hook or sling something). But still, if we could drill that high can someone 5'4" reach that high and clip? I'm not sure (and we may be about to find out  ).

[squiddo]

any way you slice/clip it, sounds like an adventure.

[F4?]

we'll be out there sunday....right squiddo?

[squiddo]

I'm not sure E- still waiting for your confirmation. 

[cobbledik]

aight then. Re-aid we'll do, if needed, I can always set up a 3:1 haul from the anchor if a few more inches are needed.

I have a hatred of hiking and approaches that prevents me from seeing 45mins as anything but a cruel cruel joke. After going up to Leaning Tower last weekend, my thighs are still unhappy with me.

[F4?]

sorry there squiddo, it is a green light. Get yer fresh panties on...




If you are that concerned about the bolt lenghts...clip slings to the ones that she can pull on.

[cobbledik]

If you are that concerned about the bolt lenghts...clip slings to the ones that she can pull on.

+100

[cobbledik]

Had a beautiful day on the route. TR with oodles of pix to come but for now, a quick wrap up
Pitch 1: the free moves to the anchor are both fun AND frightening. I'd say 5.10, not 5.9
Pitch 2: amazing 3 star pitch. Consistently fun movement on solid rock. Yelled, "this if f**king cool!" more than twice.
Pitch 3: nicknamed the leaf blower pitch and still very dirty and loose, def should have an "r" rating. rocks that come off at the top of the pitch bounce out far enough to threaten the base of the crag (I think)
Pitch 4: superfun tube hiking.
With a true summit to boot!

[F4?]

The 1st pitch crux is similar to the lava falls top out....5.9

Nice job

[squiddo]

The 1st pitch crux is similar to the lava falls top out....5.9

Nice job

Oh NOW I wanna do it:-)

[mungeclimber]

cool

[cobbledik]

The 1st pitch crux is similar to the lava falls top out....5.9

Nice job

It's been many years since I've done Lava Falls so I can't make a comparison, I will say that the hand holds at the top out of the first pitch are def not obvious or juggy, easy footwork but just at vertical to require technical movement that I wouldn't place in the 5.9 category. The opposite of the second 5.10 bulge in pitch two which seemed less technical because of the reachy but super-secure jug one reaches for and can thus use to bypass obvious/tenuous moves with the alway-elegant grunt.

[Brad Young]

Had a beautiful day on the route. TR with oodles of pix to come but for now, a quick wrap up
Pitch 1: the free moves to the anchor are both fun AND frightening. I'd say 5.10, not 5.9
Pitch 2: amazing 3 star pitch. Consistently fun movement on solid rock. Yelled, "this if f**king cool!" more than twice.
Pitch 3: nicknamed the leaf blower pitch and still very dirty and loose, def should have an "r" rating. rocks that come off at the top of the pitch bounce out far enough to threaten the base of the crag (I think)
Pitch 4: superfun tube hiking.
With a true summit to boot!

Glad you two enjoyed the climb.

Rating the free climbing from the last bolt on the ladder to the anchor is hard. It's pretty damn exposed and it's difficult to think about just the moves when rating it.

The route took several climbing days to establish. During that time, Bratton led that section twice, so his thoughts about it being 5.9 are worth listening to. When I led it it was a total unknown, I had no idea if I would even be able to find anywhere to stop and drill. And, yes it was frightening. I sure felt it was 5.10a then. It almost goes without saying that Jim and Dennis - having not then even climbed the moves - voted for 5.9 (in point of fact, Dennis wasn't even there that day - and he still voted for 5.9).

Actually the way that part went free is pretty interesting. After what is now the last bolt in the ladder went in, Bratton came down and it was my turn to lead. I jugged up and got set. A "three way" conversation then ensued between me and Jim, and me and me.

As I am ready to start climbing, Jim says, (in an accusing voice): "You're going for that free aren't you?"

Me - to myself: "Uh, free? I hadn't even THOUGHT of continuing without one more bolt."

Me - to Jim: "Uh, yeah, I thought I'd see what I could do."

Jim - to me: "It sure looks like it'll go."

Me - to myself: "He's not only a fanatic, he's a berserk fanatic; he's just crazy. I'm going to die if I try this free."

Me - to myself: "Yeah, but what's worse, death, or Jim's scorn?"

Me - to Jim: "Yeah, I can see the first moves, I'm going for it."

The words "thank God" are a good approximation of my thoughts when I did come to the curved ledge and I could drill. The rest of the route was fun, but that was certainly the highlight for me.

[F4?]

During that time, Bratton led that section twice, so his thoughts about it being 5.9 are worth listening to. When I led it it was a total unknown, I had no idea if I would even be able to find anywhere to stop and drill. And, yes it was frightening. I sure felt it was 5.10a then. It almost goes without saying that Jim and Dennis - having not then even climbed the moves - voted for 5.9 (in point of fact, Dennis wasn't even there that day - and he still voted for 5.9).

I actually had to lead that sucker 3 times!

My thought was...the lava falls top out has small holds, so so feet and 1 final move (I've since gone back and done Lava and that move is easier). So 5.9 seemed pretty close. 10a...not to far from it and maybe so. I tend to use Lava Falls as my base line for a 5.9 grade.

Plus how can you inflate your grades when in the presence of Jim Mc. Good thing the next guide version won't be out for years....We have plenty of time to figure the grade out.