Author Topic: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side  (Read 34157 times)

mynameismud

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #20 on: January 17, 2012, 09:14:32 AM »
yes, the last Saturday of Feb next year.  If it is raining the first Saturday when the rock is good.
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #21 on: January 17, 2012, 10:40:07 AM »
Is that section on Los Banditos freed?  and Freeable?


the pic makes it look possible
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #22 on: January 17, 2012, 10:53:47 AM »
Is that section on Los Banditos freed?  and Freeable?


the pic makes it look possible

What section? The only aid on Los Banditos is the overhanging bolt ladder (eight bolts). The rock in that area doesn't look like it would ever go free. Mr Mud looked it over once he joined in on the project, and he agreed that there's not enough there to work with, some of the rock is not so good, and it's very steep (although now he'll probably insist that he can do it, which is great, he's always got a go for it, never say die attitude).

Best not to believe me though and go look for yourself   ;D

cobbledik

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #23 on: January 17, 2012, 11:19:50 AM »
That space around the aid ladder bolts was less like rock and more like hovering buck shot.

---
Looks like Jingus in on our hit list now. I'm assuming is not closed for birds, can't tell because it seems like a nameless crag in the info I've found.

Is Icarus closed now?

mynameismud

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #24 on: January 17, 2012, 11:22:35 AM »
Jingus is always open.  It is up above the res on the east side.
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MUCCI

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #25 on: January 17, 2012, 11:24:36 AM »
Nice Kevin.

I had been trying to get Fabrizio out to do that route.  Great job on the 2nd ascent and quality writeup.

Way to finish up a great year of repeats at pinns man.

Brad Young

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #26 on: January 17, 2012, 11:36:46 AM »

---
Looks like Jingus in on our hit list now. I'm assuming is not closed for birds, can't tell because it seems like a nameless crag in the info I've found.


Did you look on pages 126 and 127 of the book? Jingus is on Ridge Rock which is shown on the map. It never closes (at least it never has).

Brad Young

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #27 on: January 17, 2012, 11:38:18 AM »
That space around the aid ladder bolts was less like rock and more like hovering buck shot.

Oh, and nice description.  :D

squiddo

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #28 on: January 17, 2012, 11:49:52 AM »
Ha yes indeed. I've always done a compare to kitty litter. Maybe clean kitty litter but litter none the less. ADS?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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cobbledik

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #29 on: January 17, 2012, 01:52:58 PM »
Did you look on pages 126 and 127 of the book? Jingus is on Ridge Rock which is shown on the map. It never closes (at least it never has).
Ah got it. I was looking in the book index under J instead of R. Why does "slung knobs for protection" on a Clint Cummins route get the fear going in me?

found these quotes from Clint's trip report...
"I was horrified when I discovered that the best piece in the steep section as a Lowe Ball."
"There was no anchor on top, so he just got a good sitting belay position."

Dixie's going to kill me. That is, if I don't get to it first.

squiddo

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #30 on: January 17, 2012, 01:58:22 PM »

found these quotes from Clint's trip report...
"I was horrified when I discovered that the best piece in the steep section as a Lowe Ball."
 

Lowe Balls in granite can horrify let alone kitty litter. I've taken a whip on 'em before but again, solid stone. yikes!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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Brad Young

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #31 on: January 17, 2012, 04:02:41 PM »
It's a scary route, Dennis did a masterful job on the FA. But when I did it, I put my full, fat body weight on several Lowe Balls in a row and they held.

And, here's the key for the "top" anchor. One option is to sit and use body position as Dennis and Clint did. I wasn't wiling to do that though. Instead, once I topped out and was comfortable on top, I told my belayer that I was off belay. I sat down, untied and then pulled up most of the slack. Next I had my belayer go around to the other side of the rock, I threw the extra slack to him and had him tie into the rope (same tie in as if he was leading). Now, with him as my anchor, I had him sit. I then cleaned the route myself by rappelling off the other side from where he was sitting (that is, I rappelled a single strand of rope directly over the route I had just climbed). I suppose I could have had my belayer tie the rope to a tree too, but it was quicker and easier to just use him as an anchor.

Another alternative would be for the leader to finish Jingus and then down climb the Ridge Rock 5.3 route, and, once on the ground on the opposite side of the rock from the route, sit and anchor the second as they clean the route by jumaring.

The key to these alternatives it to carefully think through the forces and directions of pull on the rope and on the "human anchor." It's not hard to safely clean the route, the method used is just not "orthodox."

squiddo

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #32 on: January 17, 2012, 04:04:03 PM »
Nice explanation Brad
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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mynameismud

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #33 on: January 17, 2012, 05:15:14 PM »
Brad,

That just is not right.  The sit belay anchor is part of the route.
Here's to sweat in your eye

cobbledik

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #34 on: January 17, 2012, 06:45:59 PM »
The sit belay anchor gives me the willies because I can't see how to perform a belay escape. I guess most single pitch issues are just lower to the ground problem solving but I don't like feeling helpless should something unforeseen happen.

Brad Young

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #35 on: January 17, 2012, 07:39:04 PM »

Brad,

That just is not right.  The sit belay anchor is part of the route.


No, it isn't. The sport is climbing, not sitting and not climbsitting. You start at the bottom, you climb to the top, you get to use the orange highlighter. It's all very simple. Climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #36 on: January 17, 2012, 07:42:13 PM »

The sit belay anchor gives me the willies because I can't see how to perform a belay escape.


Kevin, you've got to understand that Dennis is as tough as he is stubborn. Once he's able to get back on the forum he'll post his tough-as-hell solution, which really is an elegant, simple and effective way to make an emergency escape from the belay.

Cut the rope.

squiddo

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #37 on: January 17, 2012, 07:58:24 PM »
Brad- you are on a roll today. Orange highlighter. Classic
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F4?

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #38 on: January 17, 2012, 08:13:54 PM »
What about the yellow highlighted?

Yeah, sit belay anchors are pretty typical outside of bear gulch....I guess when bolts were hard to come by and later climbers were too cheap. Think eiger sanction... ;D
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mynameismud

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Re: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side
« Reply #39 on: January 17, 2012, 08:46:10 PM »
ppphhhhtttt.  It is a climb, climb to the top, sit down, belay your partner, enjoy the view, shake hands, no need to escape just walk off together.
Here's to sweat in your eye