Author Topic: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side (Read 34115 times)

cobbledik · « **Reply #40 on:** January 17, 2012, 10:20:53 PM »

I have learned that the crux of the route is sometimes Dixie. There are always workarounds and methods of doing things that I'll employ when solo or with a platonic partner that I won't do with Dixie. I'm too close emotionally I guess. My concern about a belay escape has nothing to do with me and everything to do with knowing that if something unforeseen was to happen, I could be counted on to self-rescue and generally keep her in some sort of acceptable managed risk.

squiddo · « **Reply #41 on:** January 17, 2012, 10:50:42 PM »

Interesting point. Climbing with a loved one does change perspective.

mynameismud · « **Reply #42 on:** January 18, 2012, 07:58:20 AM »

Kevin, my answer was more for Brad. I understand where your coming from. Not sure the route is worth doing but I look forward to reading the write up.

cobbledik · « **Reply #43 on:** January 18, 2012, 08:11:12 AM »

We'll let you guys know when we head out to it.

Brad Young · « **Reply #44 on:** January 19, 2012, 06:52:16 PM »

I re-read Kevin's report for the photos and for fun.

I want to make one point about "kitty litter" that is critical: yes, the rock around the aid bolt ladder is generally of poor quality. But all the aid bolts are long, 3/8" and every one of them is in good rock. Each one would hold a serious fall.

cobbledik · « **Reply #45 on:** January 19, 2012, 08:30:56 PM »

I definitely agree. Not a single bolt on the ladder seemed anything but bombertrucktruckbomber.

My girlfriend was quick to point out the failed bolt hole at the first pitch anchors. "What happened to this bolt?" she asked. I reached out and plucked a random thumb-sized rock out of the wall with little resistance on the part of the rock or its mud-caked home. I answered her by shrugging my shoulders and tossing the rock to the meadow below.

Unfortunately part of my writing style is to go gonzo when I can and questioning the security of secure things (such as the above writing or the part of the TR comparing the orange of the glue around the bolts to the flaking mold/moss/lichen/whatever-it-is) is done more for artistic representation of the speaker's questioning mental state than as a practical evaluation of the safety of the bolts.

I'm still playing about with how much symbolism and fantasy I can imbue a trip report with while still holding practical truth up at the some time. I'm a huge fan of Mailer and HS Thompson and so it's an interesting place to find myself between practical tangible truth and symbolic fantastical truths.

Wait till you see the premeditated TR, That behemoth is getting out of control.

kylequeener · « **Reply #46 on:** January 24, 2012, 02:01:24 PM »

Nice TR. I hadn't heard of anyone doing it yet.

My g/f and I got on this route not too long after it was completed. Dandy little bolt ladder. Did it with no fifi or biners, made the long reaches harder. Interesting exit moves from the aiders. No matter how hard you can crush it's still a heart rate elevating 5.9 section.

cobbledik · « **Reply #47 on:** January 24, 2012, 03:24:25 PM »

Quote from: nolimitclimbing88 on January 24, 2012, 02:01:24 PM

My g/f and I got on this route not too long after it was completed.

So was the orange redirect biner yours or the FA's? I had assumed it was from the FA since we weren't aware of anyone else jumping on the route between us and the FA. I left it behind for that reason. Oh well, could have had some early ascent booty.

Brad Young · « **Reply #48 on:** January 24, 2012, 03:31:17 PM »

I don't think we left anything, although Bratton was the last of our party at that belay station.

cobbledik · « **Reply #49 on:** January 24, 2012, 03:55:31 PM »

Thought it was FA gear because of its perfect color matching to the rock.

Brad Young · « **Reply #50 on:** January 24, 2012, 04:41:53 PM »

Bratton can chime in about whether he left the 'biner.

Meanwhile, it looks like you were climbing on my old rope!

cobbledik · « **Reply #51 on:** January 24, 2012, 06:07:44 PM »

Good ole cheapo Maxim that I picked up in South Lake when I took some friends to Lover's Leap and we forgot a third rope for our choochoo train up haystack this summer.

I had that rope and a 70m 9.4 in the car. I have trouble ever choosing the skinny rope anymore.

kylequeener · « **Reply #52 on:** January 24, 2012, 07:31:13 PM »

That would be my carabiner. Fuzzy memory about what happened exactly when I left the belay, but it came down to my g/f trying to jug for the first time ever and the slight traverse in the line gave her trouble while passing the pieces. Unable to get visuals or good communication to coach her through she transitioned to a rappel and I went and cleaned it leaving that directional piece. After doing that approach aid pitch I never really felt like getting back on it. Good to know that piece is still up there. I feel like going back up there and cleaning it. I hate leaving trash on routes. Will have to wait to do that, of course.

F4? · « **Reply #53 on:** January 24, 2012, 08:21:01 PM »

homie don't leave gear.

cobbledik · « **Reply #54 on:** January 24, 2012, 08:40:56 PM »

Quote from: nolimitclimbing88 on January 24, 2012, 07:31:13 PM

Fuzzy memory about what happened exactly when I left the belay, but it came down to my g/f trying to jug for the first time ever and the slight traverse in the line gave her trouble while passing the pieces. Unable to get visuals or good communication to coach her through she transitioned to a rappel and I went and cleaned it leaving that directional piece.

huh? I is confused. Did you only do the first pitch?

mynameismud · « **Reply #55 on:** January 24, 2012, 11:11:44 PM »

booty

kylequeener · « **Reply #56 on:** January 25, 2012, 09:43:04 AM »

Quote from: cobbledik on January 24, 2012, 08:40:56 PM

huh? I is confused. Did you only do the first pitch?

Yeah. Probably my first route that required using aiders. I had done Machete Direct but free climbed the 1st pitch and french freed the 2nd bolt ladder. We had little idea of what we were doing on Los Banditos and totally bonked. I'm pretty confident we would cruise that today, as we've done with several of the other Machete mud bolt ladders since. Now I definitely find every way possible not to leave booty for anyone, especially anyone who lurks ST or M&C. I had a habit of leaving biners back in the ignorant radster sport climber days of last year

cobbledik · « **Reply #57 on:** January 25, 2012, 11:24:54 AM »

Did you use it to retreat off of?

F4? · « **Reply #58 on:** January 25, 2012, 02:42:30 PM »

Speaking of finding gear on a route and the prior owner...

Over the past few years Jake and I have been on 2x not too popular routes. Low and behold we've come accross a bail biner...Oddly, this gear looks really, really familiar...as I had seen this gear before...on Mr. Mud's rack.

The grin he gave when I gave it back was priceless. Due to there's always a good story behind it.

So if you find bail gear (that's not painted brown-Brad's), check with Mr Mud.

kylequeener · « **Reply #59 on:** January 25, 2012, 09:36:22 PM »

I doubt I used it as the only piece, I probably used it as a directional. I can't remember. The drugs do a good job seeing that happens for me.

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Author Topic: Trip Report - Los Banditos - Machete Ridge - Pinnacles West Side (Read 34115 times)