A wet and windy Old Original -TR-

[kylequeener]

For anyone who likes foul weather, chossy rock and long ridges.

http://youtu.be/jCEbGip3bbM

[Brad Young]

Pretty Brave getting on it in those conditions. It ain't 5.4 at Pinnacles when the rock is wet!

[cobbledik]

Isn't Machete Ridge under the closures last weekend? If they've changed, I'm all over Icarus.

And if Machete is still under the closures, would they effect The A3 Center Arch route?

[Brad Young]

Isn't Machete Ridge under the closures last weekend? If they've changed, I'm all over Icarus.

And if Machete is still under the closures, would they effect The A3 Center Arch route?

The closures are in effect. They are harder to understand regarding Machete than other formations since only part of it is closed.

(Gavin, chime in here if I get it wrong).

The nesting site is about 100 feet right of the second pitch of Los Banditos (it's in an up-and-right roof/corner). So, routes near this are closed. Since it's up on top and not on the face, Old Original is open. The short routes at the base are not very close to the nest and are open (including the Arch - Up the Center route - those are my fixed pins Kevin, and maybe call me about the route before you get on it - the description in the book is not correct and I'll fill you in). But the longer routes from Dadelus to the right up to and including Icarus are close to the nest site and are closed.

[mynameismud]

Wow, crazy times.  Really cool you got out in that weather.

[cobbledik]

Thanks Brad. I still haven't eyeballed the arch yet, so it's a while off for me before I would head out. Icarus is def one of my next solos, so I'll have to wait on that one. *huff*
Any word on the cleanup of the excess bolts that are mentioned in the guidebook?

- - - -

Anywho, love the video. My favorite is appearing at the anchor with a coil of rope in your hand while the partner is still belaying until she see's the futility of it and just lowers the belay device. My gf has done that before too.

[mynameismud]

Some clean up has been done but it could probably use a fresh impartial eye.

[Brad Young]

I'm not sure that I agree, Dennis. You and I and Jim carefully removed all the bolts we thought were added to the route, with the sole exception of the belay bolts. You and Jim patched the holes. These bolts were all in the third and fourth pitches. We also moved the added second pitch Icarus belay bolts over onto the variation, and off of Icarus. After that you and I did the whole variation route and as part of that I led the Icarus third pitch (from where the variation joins it and then up) all on gear. And then you led the fourth pitch of Icarus with it's original bolts only (they are the only bolts there now).

I don't see what else could be done?

[CruxLuv]

Pretty Brave getting on it in those conditions. It ain't 5.4 at Pinnacles when the rock is wet!

Heuvos Grande!

Great vid and got me itching for Sunday's field trip.   

[Brad Young]

Heuvos Grande!

Great vid and got me itching for Sunday's field trip.   

All right, CruxLuv, spill the beans: what's up for Sunday?

[kylequeener]

Hey since I'm interested in that arch route as well maybe Brad can elaborate on the errors in the guide book, either here or maybe in the corrections thread. I was planning on going out tomorrow to practice soloing the bottom pitches of SOD and solo the Old Original in good conditions, but non bolt ladder aid pitches are what I'm interested hearing more about. I'm basically trying to do a couple of aid pitches to build some basics on. I have a want to solo Zodiac this coming summer as an intro to Valley wall climbing. If anyone has some Pinns pitches they deem worthy of repeating I'd like to hear about them. I'll pretty much be soloing them.

[Brad Young]

There's a thread on here somewhere - and I think a correction. I thought the route started from the right, and put it that way in the book (it seemed obvious actually). But last year Josh and I found bolt holes right below the roof crack; the lowest hole is right below an old fixed piton that's hard to see. We found two holes total, but neither had a bolt in it. I took photos of the lower hole and posted them up somewhere here.

So it is obvious that the original route went straight up, but that someone later pulled the bolts. I started a thread to ask if anyone minded if I put the bolts back. No one seemed to mind and so I bought bolts and tan anodized hangers to replace the bolts with (it might be possible to use the same holes - they look pretty good). But I haven't gotten back yet.

I had originally led out the roof about halfway, but didn't have enough gear to finish. Intending to come back "soon," I left my pins in place (knifeblades driven straight up in a micro crack). But I haven't gotten back yet.

The aid is very thin and certainly more than casual. It will not go clean, not at knifeblade thickness.

I intend to get that thing done this season - it's one of only six routes at Pinns that I know of that is easier than 5.10 that I have not done. So, gotta get it soon.

[CruxLuv]

All right, CruxLuv, spill the beans: what's up for Sunday?

Not sure where we'll end up.  Going TRing with Scott from the Pac Edge group this time.  Looking forward to being along for the ride rather than driving.   

Weather should be SWEEEET!

Where are other peeps going?

[cobbledik]

If you want to practice your solo aiding, go do Mustache on Discovery Wall. After the first 5 placements, it's casual by pinnacles aiding standards and nice and long. Bring peckers or short blades for the opening moves or a supreme faith in micro nuts. You could probably go clean a lot easier now because my ex-partner was a bit overzealous in cleaning the pecker if i'm not mistaken. I vaguely remember getting into a scolding "be careful about the rock" argument with her.

Once you hit the small ledge 15-20' up, it's all C1 from there. (Pinnacles C1 requires screamers though, so keep that in mind. - That crack would be considered quite rotten outside of the Pinns)

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Central_Ca...Coast/Pinnacles_...ument/Discovery_Wall/Mustache_107531.html

[Uncle Stinky]

Nice video Thanks. 

[cobbledik]

I have a want to solo Zodiac this coming summer as an intro to Valley wall climbing.

soloing Zodiac isn't really an intro to valley wall climbing, it is valley wall climbing. Bring offsets.

[Brad Young]

Where are other peeps going?

J Tree for a week.

[mungeclimber]

Possibly Pinns, late start, with Noots.

Will know more later.


Would like to TR Bandits in Bondage. Been too long since I've followed that. Might make a good lead project.


Also would like to aid that center roof problem too!
Has the old bolt on the roof itself been replaced yet?

Great vid!  The long wind blow rope across the chasm was cool.

[mynameismud]

@Brad,  It would be nice to have a fresh view on the upper pitches.  From what I remember I was not really happy with it when we left.  Perhaps a bolt or two can be removed.  Dunno.  Additional feedback would be nice.

That roof crack is A0 with a 40 ft cheater stick. 

[Gavin]

For folks climbing this weekend: I'll be around as well, likely climbing on Saturday and Sunday at Disco Wall or Monolith with a couple of co-workers. I'll hope to see others out and about!