Climbing Advisories and Closures 2024 (Protection of Nesting Birds of Prey)

[JC w KC redux]

Dang it's only up to 109.

Guess I'll go back to earthquake prediction.

[JC w KC redux]

^^^
^^^
Redeemed! It was 111 today at 12:30

[Gavin]

I just updated the closure list - it goes into effect today (January 18). The list is pretty consistent with previous years but let me know if you see errors / omissions.

I did add the south side of Citadel to the closures... I think this only impacts the route Sally Port and the 4th Class Descent. All climbs on the north side and at Whitetail Rock should be fine to stay open, but we've had a falcon pair nesting on the south side of Citadel for the past few years.

[JC w KC redux]

^^^
Looks good from what I can see Gavin - although my vision is still shit.
Sally Port might be confusing until Brad decides how to update the new routes list (it is not listed yet).
I still cannot post the rebolting list either.
I was surprised you were able to post the closures without issue but maybe you just modified what was there instead of trying to wipe the post clean and repost as I did (fatal mistake).
I heard Aaron might be attempting a site rescue at some point.
I just want to say to Aaron - good luck...we are all counting on you...

[F4?]

Thanks Gavin!!

Whew, Piglet Pinnacle is open!

Here is to a successful season!!

[Gavin]

^^^
I was surprised you were able to post the closures without issue but maybe you just modified what was there instead of trying to wipe the post clean and repost as I did (fatal mistake).

I was a bit surprised too... I pasted in text from a Word doc and that may have had something to do with posting without issues as well.

[JC w KC redux]

I was a bit surprised too... I pasted in text from a Word doc and that may have had something to do with posting without issues as well.

I don't get it.
I just tried that on the rebolting master list and I cannot post Jack Shit.

[Gavin]

Heads up, gang - a pair of condors has just been confirmed nesting at Machete Ridge again and mandatory closures are going into effect today at Machete Ridge, covering the routes on the southwest portion of Machete, basically the same routes that were closed last time this same pair of condors nested at Machete Ridge 2 years ago.

Let me know if you have questions. There will be multiple signs on T-posts along the climber access trail just south of Corona / Dos Equis.

[NOAL]

Cool!

[F4?]

So los banditos  is closed?

Lower part is okay, 2 pitches of bandits in B?

[JC w KC redux]

CLOSED: Pigeon Crack, Crackophobia, Son of Dawn Wall (and variations), Robots of Dawn, Icarus (and variations), Shortly Tooloose, Gambling Groove, Desperado Chute Out (and variations), Rumors, Stretch Seven, Serpiente de Cascabel, Bullseye, Derringer (and variations), Old Original (first five pitches),, Rappel Bypass, Rappel Reverse, The Hideout
Okay: All routes

Gavin - did you mean to say All OTHER Routes at the end of the statement?

[Gavin]

JC - yep, good catch; I just changed the last statement to "all other routes."

F4 - correct: lower pitches of Bandits in Bondage (and other Bad Man Mezzanine routes) are okay.

[traslin]

What is the status of Full Circle on the Balconies (new route between The Powers That Be and Electric Blue)? Friends of Pinnacles indicates that that portion of the wall is open.

[Brad Young]

^^^

Full Circle is squarely within the closures.

Here's what Gavin posted about the closures as they apply to The Balconies:

"Balconies / Crowley
Sensitive: All climbs on Balconies cliffs from Regular Route south to Happy Hamlin's, Balconies roof routes, Crowley Towers
Okay: All Balconies climbs from Digger north to Knifeblade and Nexus, all routes at The Flumes, all climbs below Balconies Cliffs Trail including Osirus and Toogs, Smiling Simian, and Even Coyotes Do It Doggy Style"

Regular Route is well north of Full Circle (and so, Full Circle is south of Regular Route and in the closures).

If it says differently, the FoP site is wrong.

[traslin]

Gotcha. Thanks for clarifying.

[Zay]

I was JUST about to start another thread about that.

Can confirm: FOP claims "open."

Does Bruce still run that site?

[Brad Young]

Gavin's not around right now, but I suspect if he were he's tell you why the far right end of The Balconies can stay open. I think he would say that there's a fairly subtle but definite bend in the lower tier of The Balconies, well to the right of Shake and Bake, just left of/at the pitches of Regular Route, and significantly left of Digger. That bend makes the far right (north) end completely not visible from the south end.

And you can figure out for yourself about where the falcons are nesting (hint, it's not near the north end).

The advantages of having a raptor biologist who is also a climber: He can make sure that raptors have all the room they need to breed successfully, without going further than is really needed.

[Brad Young]

I was JUST about to start another thread about that.

Can confirm: FOP claims "open."

Does Bruce still run that site?

Bruce has never run that site, Brooks runs it. You should message the site and ask them to correct the misinformation?

[Zay]

On it

[Zay]

Just messaged them.