Mud n Crud pecking order...

[JC w KC redux]

Being a neophyte to Mud n Crud and a newbie lead climber, I'm just wondering what I'm up against to graduate from the peepers category? I bagged my 21st onsight lead this past weekend and I've been leading since just before Christmas...how am I doin'? All my leads have been in the Pinns...my first and several others in the High Peaks and on the West Side since the closures...I'm hooked...

[squiddo]

Just ask, there is a moderator out there that's gonna love you.

Welcome to the club.

[cobbledik]

Hmmmm, High Peaks and West Side "since the closure?" them's slim pickins.

[JC w KC redux]

Hmmmm, High Peaks and West Side "since the closure?" them's slim pickins.

Yes my wording was misleading...High Peaks before the closures and West Side since...did both pitches of Lichen to Lead this past Sat. Read your post about Hunting Spiders somewhere else(summit.org maybe?) and got a good laugh from the pulling out bowling ball size rocks ref. We cleared off "Lichen" a bit (I've never yelled "rock!" so much) if anyone else has a mind to jump on it. Stepping out/up to the sling knob was exciting! Ignoring the choss and the runout, it turned out to be a fun adventure with the scramble to the top and down the backside.

[CruxLuv]

Watch out, Mud n Crudders...this guy's nothing but trouble. 

His wife's even worse.  (no, it's not me)

 

[cobbledik]

That would have been on Rockclimbing.com routes me thinks (http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Central_California_Coast/Pinnacles_National_Monument/Flumes_Formation_The/Hunting_Spiders_103553.html)

But no, seriously, two bowling ball sized rocks. Pulled one and immediately jumped to another. I remember having just enough time to think, "wow, i'm pretty good" before the second rock pulled out and I fell with just enough time to think, "wow, my partner's right in the firing lane of these boulders. Prob should have made her use a grigri."

[mynameismud]

All your leads in the Pins on the West Side and High Peaks.  That is impressive.  Not many can say that, most folks spend a bit more time in the Gulch.  The groupings are by post count.  As you can tell the admin is not very creative.  A few are in a category of their own.  Brad is in the 800 club since he has done over 800 routes.  Munge is Mr BLL since all he drinks is Bud Light Lime. 

If you want to get out of the peepers category you either have to stand out which you are beginning to do just by leading crud out of the gate or you have to post more.

cruxlux is aiming for her own category of QOC. 

there is some good stuff on the East Side also and you do not have to climb in the Gulch.  Marmot, Frog, Hand.  Then there is the new slabby stuff on Machete, Trainspotting, what else come on guys help me out.  Gerties is short but worth a visit and gets good Sun on cold days.

[cobbledik]

The "Newer" routes on the sisters look interesting and I've been meaning to get out there but haven't yet.

If he likes the West side he should do his penance on Tiburcio's X (East side but go up the center and you'll be right at home)

Hamsters?

[JC w KC redux]

All your leads in the Pins on the West Side and High Peaks.  That is impressive. 

If you want to get out of the peepers category you either have to stand out which you are beginning to do just by leading crud out of the gate or you have to post more.

I can't quite claim all of my leads so far in that category - damn you conscience! I did Sinbad early on along with 1st Sister's Center and Left Routes. Thanks for the other recommendations...I need to learn more about placing trad so I can branch out...

[mynameismud]

It is good to be a bit cautious when going trad at the Pins.  More than one person has zippered pro.  What looks bommer in other area's may not be so at the Pins.  It is super cool stuff though.  The stuff on the Sisters is pretty cool.  Many of us did our time there. 

Not sure if there is a pecking order, it is more of a free for all. 

[JC w KC redux]

Watch out, Mud n Crudders...this guy's nothing but trouble. 

His wife's even worse.  (no, it's not me)

 

that's COLD! where is the LUV? your mushy exterior must be obfuscating a heart of darkness!!

[JC w KC redux]

It is good to be a bit cautious when going trad at the Pins.  More than one person has zippered pro.  What looks bommer in other area's may not be so at the Pins.  It is super cool stuff though.  The stuff on the Sisters is pretty cool. 

I am trying to be super careful. I've only had occasion to place three nuts so far - two in opposition on Twinkle Toes pitch 1 and one this past weekend on Lichen's first pitch. I felt like the opposing setup was bomber - providing the rock held, but the one on Lichen was listed as so-so and that rock was definitely questionable. I'd just like to try some of the routes that have a stray piece here and there for now...I don't have any cams yet b/c I want to get good at placing passive stuff first (I only have nuts and hexes) - the guidebook seems to specify cams on quite a few of the combo routes though - so I'm starting to wonder if having just a few to start would be a good idea...thoughts?
I agree that 1st Sister is big fun - mostly for the exposure and views - felt more like a solo than a lead most of the time - probably better to treat it that way b/c a fall on that slabby stuff would be hideous!

[mynameismud]

Brass ones will get you a long ways....

I only have nuts

[mynameismud]

Cams are a good addition.  I would not hesitate to pick a few up.  Mix them up with passive gear and see how they complement each other.   Aliens are still the standard for thin stuff even at the Pins although the green purple camalots are super bomber ( I am not familiar with the new sizes)

[cobbledik]

Brass ones will get you a long ways....

I see what you did there

And don't forget the best type of protection at the pinnacles, who needs nuts and cans when you have slings! But seriously, I like spectra/dynema slings because they're thinner which can get around smaller chicken heads and knobs.

[Atomizer]

In order to master climbing at The Pinnacles you have to play many different games.  You need loose rock skills, a runout resistant headspace, and be able to deal with sketchy pro which often means bad bolts. Once you can deal with at least two of those skills at a time you go beyond "Peepers" status and become a "Mudder."

I'd be carefull to not gain the unsaid "4th skill" or the even rarer "5th Element" of The Pinns, at which point you may find your self in the unfortunate "800 Club" or "BLL" crew.

[cobbledik]

BOLTS!


CAMS!


SLINGS!


4TH SKILL!


WARNING! All placements for novelty aid purposes only.

[rhyang]

Slung knobs on second pitch of Tilting Terrace -



I also like the smaller tricams for the occasional hole, like on Dragonfly Dome.

[cobbledik]

Agree on the tricams. I fell away from these but have returned to them recently. They often fill the trick part of tricky placements.

[mungeclimber]

Tricam! 

This thread has real promise with pics.