Mud n Crud pecking order...

[joe]

I wish it were easier to post photos here, I would insert the Mickey Mouse bottle opener that Gavin and I discovered as 'pro'...

[JC w KC redux]

Cams are a good addition.  I would not hesitate to pick a few up.  Mix them up with passive gear and see how they complement each other.   Aliens are still the standard for thin stuff even at the Pins although the green purple camalots are super bomber ( I am not familiar with the new sizes)

thanks Mud,
I looked at cams yesterday and the Camalots seem to be the best value with double axle and greatest range. Gearexpress.com is messing with my thrifty side since they have all their Wild Country tech friends on closeout - now the Helium friends are out too - arghhh- too many choices!

[mungeclimber]

Right click properties, paste, embed.

Is it on FB?

Share it to me, ill post it if u want.

[squiddo]

Slings......RHYANG likely knows this shot/local.



Now if I could only find that tri-cam shot(s)

[JC w KC redux]

In order to master climbing at The Pinnacles you have to play many different games.  You need loose rock skills, a runout resistant headspace, and be able to deal with sketchy pro which often means bad bolts. Once you can deal with at least two of those skills at a time you go beyond "Peepers" status and become a "Mudder."

i am a long ways from being a master at anything but I think I got a good taste of all those criteria "stacked" on Lichen to Lead. Not sure i would trust some of the bolts based on their age and the rock quality. my sketchy pro was a pretty solid nut placement in the back of the chute that Brad shows as so-so pro on the topo. it gave me a slight boost since i just ran out that section the first time i did P1 - i affectionately referred to that chossy section between the last bolt and the anchor at the top of P1 as Hell and Gone from Cartagena...As far as the overall climb i've never yelled "rock" so many times and i've been on some runout but not like that! i still think it's a cool climb and an adventurous scramble/walkoff...

[JC w KC redux]

BOLTS!
CAMS!
SLINGS!
WARNING! All placements for novelty aid purposes only.

Those pics are great! I have clipped some pretty scary bolts/hangers in the High Peaks but nothing as sketchy as those! That one looks like it would do about as much good as a wood nail in a soda can pull tab! Whenever I clip something suspicious I just remind myself that a fall is unacceptable and climb like it's a solo...

[JC w KC redux]

Slung knobs on second pitch of Tilting Terrace -

I also like the smaller tricams for the occasional hole, like on Dragonfly Dome.

Thanks for that pic and advice - looks like i need to go back and lead P2 on Tilting Terrace to get some more sling practice - I led P1 and then went up Adam's Apple instead - my first and only 5.9 so far...

I did find a nice hole on Lichen to Lead but very questionable that the lip around the opening was thick enough/sturdy enough to hold anything - I had nuts and hexes but nothing would snug...

[JC w KC redux]

Slings......RHYANG likely knows this shot/locale

Now if I could only find that tri-cam shot(s)

Thanks for the "welcome to the club" - conjures one of my fave Joe Walsh tunes.

That looks like a threaded hole in tafoni-style graywacke - I'll take a wild guess and say Castle Rock...

Okay I've done lots of research and it seems to make the most sense to go with Camalots for maximum range and overlap but also quite pricey - I can bite the bullet and get 25.5% off if I buy the whole set(#.4 to #6)or 18.5% if I get at least 3 at a time. The cheaper option is to go with the Wild Country Tech Friends on closeout since they are being replaced by the new Heliums. I can get (#0.5 to #3.5) - 7 pieces for just under $320 but the largest one's range is only 2" to 3.25". I seem to see a lot of folks with elaborate racks laid out at the Pinns but few actually placing anything - or just a piece or two. I don't particularly want to lay out a bunch of dough for something I won't use much. My plan is to continue to lead primarily in Pinns for a long time. I have nothing against going elsewhere but I'm not able to do long road trips more than a couple times a year - AND there's enough stuff in Pinns to keep me busy indefinitely. I'm perfectly happy to clip bolts, sling knobs and place an occasional trad piece. Okay - the rookie's gonna shut up now and wait for some input from all you pros...

[joe]

there was a recent thread on the taco about what cams people use...may want to check it out...my personal bias is BD from large to 3/4, aliens the rest of the way all the way to black, I also keep a few tcu's on my rack yellow, orange, sometimes red...
but for the pinns, most people here will down play the fact that you can climb for years there and never really need to place a piece...that said, if you're building a rack, I would get the best (i.e., Black Diamond, aliens) and you'll never be disappointed...
personal bias only...

[mungeclimber]

Team ProMud reporting for posting duty sir!




Most times I'm at Pinns, I bring, at most, a half rack, unless i have specific routes in mind.


That means:
single set of cams to #3 (camalot)
single set of aliens to the big purple and black ones (forgot the numbers), but these are good for cobble pockets where wider camalots won't always work. Don't bother with black baby alien size at pinns.

couple tri cams (as many as you can afford or want to carry. Often these fit solution pockets.  Btw, that sling pic of Squiddos is on Power Dome, Courtright, last pitch of a classic line!

[mynameismud]

I agree with Joe.  I have had quite a few different cams over the years and the standard is BD down to the Red Alien.  Aliens from there down to low balls.  Lowe Balls down to rp's.  BD's and Aliens will get you up just about anything.  The BD's hold up a bit better than others ( for the most part) I have to put that caveat in there since I know someone that has been climbing on rigid friends for, well, forever.

I had some problems with tech friends after taking big whippers on them and the cable/stem getting all funky.

To summerize you cannot go wrong with BD's and Aliens.

I used to always climb with a few thin runners/slings that I would use here and there.  The thin tape that is used for aid climbing works real good, you do not want to fall very far on it but in a pinch it is better than nothing.

[MUCCI]

Jc- You wrote:

i am a long ways from being a master at anything but I think I got a good taste of all those criteria "stacked" on Lichen to Lead. Not sure i would trust some of the bolts based on their age and the rock quality

Are you speaking of the bolts on the route Lichen to lead?  I replaced the 2 protection bolts (one on P2, one on P3)

If speaking of the crappy bolts posted above, the hangers would fail before those beefy star dryvins, or the rock!

Hope they didn't go bad just yet ?

Glad to see you psyched for pins man!  hope to see you around soon, then the leap over the summer right?

[cobbledik]

People with elaborate racks that only place a few pieces might be better understood as, unless you know exactly what climb you're going to do and have exact beta on it, you have the elaborate rack so that when you need those "only a few" pieces, you have them.

Marginal pieces that you place because the right size is missing or already used don't do a lot for piece of mind when you climb above them, and when you climb above them on Pinns rock, they do even less for piece of mind.

[CruxLuv]

I do have an elaborate rack.

Oh wait - we're talking climbing gear, huh?

 

[mynameismud]

Drunk posting at 9 am again?

NICE!

[squiddo]

I do have an elaborate rack.

Oh wait - we're talking climbing gear, huh?

 

Ha!

[JC w KC redux]

there was a recent thread on the taco about what cams people use...may want to check it out...my personal bias is BD from large to 3/4, aliens the rest of the way all the way to black, I also keep a few tcu's on my rack yellow, orange, sometimes red...
but for the pinns, most people here will down play the fact that you can climb for years there and never really need to place a piece...that said, if you're building a rack, I would get the best (i.e., Black Diamond, aliens) and you'll never be disappointed...
personal bias only...

Thanks for the input joe. Sorry but I am not familiar with "the taco". By large BD do you mean #6? I have only been on a few leads so far where I placed a piece. I have just been looking through the guidebook at some of the starred routes I want to do and some require pro - e.g. the Cone, Dragonfly, etc. I love the High Peaks!

[JC w KC redux]

single set of cams to #3 (camalot)
Btw, that sling pic of Squiddos is on Power Dome, Courtright, last pitch of a classic line!

Thanks munge,
So you don't usually carry cams bigger than #3?

I looked up Courtright - wow!

[CruxLuv]

Drunk posting at 9 am again?

NICE!

Yeah...got a late start today...

[cobbledik]

thanks for the input joe. sorry but i am not familiar with "the taco".

Tacostand is supertopo.
Here' s the thread he referred to
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1755445/what-cams-do-you-use