Author Topic: Monolith mixup (Read 7529 times)

KlimerKurt · « **on:** March 08, 2012, 10:05:22 PM »

So, last Sunday I was at the Pinns on the East side, and bored of the usual, showing a friend around who's a fairly new climber. I wanted to avoid the Disco wall. We headed straight to Monolith, and hopped on Wave Rider, 5.7R, and I agree with Brad, a very clever, and fun route. Big holds, and an angling traverse above the steep routes to the right of The Direct route. It had a nice solid feel, and finishes at the last bit of the Monolith Reg. Route. Fun route!

We chatted at the base with Gavin and ranger friends, and then I asked him which anchor off the back was for Penguin Handshake, planning a TR burn on something new and hard for me. He thought it should be the second one from the corner, and I set up and got to work. I struggled miserably with the start, especially getting past the 2nd bolt, yanked on a draw, and continued to do TR battle, trying to figure the unchalked moves on the supposed 11c three star route. I got through the middle pretty good, only to be shut down again right at the top of the steep section, creatively sport-aiding again. I had been on Foreplay the week before,love it, and thought maybe I should try something more difficult. I finished my attempt thinking "I guess 11c is way harder than I thought" and "I know I need to lose a little weight, but damn that felt way out of my reach!"

Finished up a great afternoon session at the Upper Crust on a really warm day, and then came home and looked more carefully at Brad's Book....

The 11c I was flailing on was Gorillas in the Moss 12.d! I drank a beer and went to bed feeling a bit better. ;-) Wouldn't have attempted it if I knew, but I think some major training is in order to have any chance on that thing...thin and desperate! Guess I should look at the book more carefully...Ha!

Anyone have any experience on 'Gorillas in the Moss' or 'Penguin Handshake'? I hope to go out and have a look at Penguin next time

By the way, nice reworking of the trail/POD area by Gavin's ranger friends, even a little fence seperating the gawkers on the trail from the climber/gear cluster on the rocks.

mynameismud · « **Reply #1 on:** March 08, 2012, 11:16:46 PM »

I have done Penguin Handshake and thought it fun but challenging.

My experience on Gorillas in the Moss was some what like yours.

Atomizer · « **Reply #2 on:** March 09, 2012, 08:31:27 AM »

Penguin Handshake broke a year or two ago. Mittens and Hoipoiloi say it is now more likely 5.12 A/B. I haven't been on it, but I would trust what those guys say. They were cursing and falling a bunch by the fourth bolt.

joe · « **Reply #3 on:** March 09, 2012, 07:40:25 PM »

been on Penguin with Tom D, thought it was hard and that was before significant holds broke, although he did break off a useful chip...

KlimerKurt · « **Reply #4 on:** March 11, 2012, 08:47:45 PM »

Thanks everyone...I didn't find any chock on Gorillas, and cleared some large dead dry tree limbs blocking the start. That should have been a clue! Maybe I'll have to take a look at Penguins. Sounds harder now. My girlfriend and I just came back from 3 days of Yosemite Climbing. Sorry to brag, just stoked

I recommend the multi-pitch slabs of the Cookie Sheet-our 2nd time there. Hightlight this time was Smear Campaign, 5.8,5.9,5.9, 500ft of fun to a damn fine view of Reed's, Merced river up to Bridalveil Falls, and the Rostrum and Elephant. We also had a great time at Pat and Jack Pinnacle, and Dan and Jerry's Playground, Below the SE face of El Cap. Is it OK to talk about Granite on Mud and Crud? I can't help it. Get some if you can!

mynameismud · « **Reply #5 on:** March 12, 2012, 06:19:50 AM »

I think this is a site of equal opportunity boasting. Unless of course you wanna talk about Sonora Pass and sonorapassclimbing.com

We never mention that here!

F4? · « **Reply #6 on:** March 12, 2012, 06:34:40 AM »

what is granite? Never seen it @ the Pinns.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #7 on:** March 12, 2012, 10:01:42 AM »

Quote from: My Name is Mud on March 12, 2012, 06:19:50 AM

I think this is a site of equal opportunity boasting. Unless of course you wanna talk about Sonora Pass and sonorapassclimbing.com

We never mention that here!

hippocrite

F4? · « **Reply #8 on:** March 12, 2012, 10:42:38 AM »

Ban him from the "other" site.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #9 on:** March 12, 2012, 10:48:02 AM »

[acerbic irony]Nothing but garbage rock up on SPH. No decent climbers have gone thru there, nope. [/acerbic irony]

F4? · « **Reply #10 on:** March 12, 2012, 12:44:24 PM »

I'd bolt it!

cobbledik · « **Reply #11 on:** March 12, 2012, 02:11:09 PM »

Looks like a prime candidate for top down inspection while placing bolts using hooks (with the fixed line as a safety backup of course)

mynameismud · « **Reply #12 on:** March 12, 2012, 02:24:43 PM »

A0 with the LoveTron

F4? · « **Reply #13 on:** March 12, 2012, 02:42:06 PM »

True, top down would be the best way to exploit the place.

I'd then tape key holds and spray paint the route names @ the bottom. No fixed draws I'm cheap.

Squiddo could then come along and put in bermed trails.