Because size does indeed matter

[CruxLuv]

Hi gang-

I was hoping for suggested pro size's and quantity for Portent and Coyote Ugly.  My partner tomorrow will be leading them for the first time - whoop!

My sissy butt will be trying Nodal Line on Upper Crust. 

Thanks

[JC w KC redux]

on Portent i placed a yellow(#2) camalot first and then a large nut a move or two higher up(with a long runner) but that piece was probably overkill. if you make it past the start/first 2-3 moves into the alcove you don't really need anything but it made me feel better + i need practice placing pro. i did it as 2 pitches and belayed KC good and tight from the first anchor after receiving this advice from a seasoned pro: Be super careful on Portent - leading (spot real good) and following (also needs a spot or fully loaded-fully stretched out over head belay).   Rope stretch is 10-20% over 80 - 100 ft so thats up to 20 ft!   Innocents and unawares/followers have broken ankles and legs here!   

you can sling a knob near the top just for fun/practice.

CU says pro to 4 inches so i'd say a #4 camalot for that - maybe take a #3 too - but what do i know?

there is nothing sissy about choosing a 5.5 where the crux is before the first bolt - hope you luv it for realz...




 

[CruxLuv]

Thanks John and Happy Belated! 

[JC w KC redux]

no problem. upper crust looks cool - lots of choices. i'm still undecided. i'll eat bday cake and ponder...

[waldo]

The suggestions above are good ones.  You might have a long runner(s) to girth hitch a knob above the climb's last bolt.  There are a couple of candidates and I forget which is my chosen one.  I didn't always tie off a knob but find that it soothes the mind when finishing up.

[mungeclimber]

Waldo, are you heading in tomorrow for climbing?

[JC w KC redux]

you can sling a knob near the top just for fun/practice.

waldo - i already suggested that - no worries - the one i liked is very near the top and feels good but it's pretty much over by then except for the last few exit moves...

[JC w KC redux]

not sure why my pic won't post - i did the img thing in brackets - maybe it doesn't like facebook for a medium

[rhyang]

For Coyote Ugly, a single #3 camalot or 3.5 wild country tech friend is probably sufficient.

I think on Portent I placed a #2 or #3 camalot, but you might want to place some smaller stuff for the start .. Got to love a 5.6 route with a 5.7 start

Someone told me the first 15 feet don't count at Pinnacles

[JC w KC redux]

Someone told me the first 15 feet don't count at Pinnacles

you got that right!!! i didn't think the start of portent was hard - just committing - but i have a long reach...

[CruxLuv]

Here ya go JC

[waldo]

Pardon, JC.  I've got to read things more thoroughly.  The picture reminds me that there's drag if you don't throw a couple of long runners in.

[JC w KC redux]

Pardon, JC.  I've got to read things more thoroughly.  The picture reminds me that there's drag if you don't throw a couple of long runners in.

no problem - it was at the end so maybe i put you to sleep
i used a 2 foot runner - it wasn't much drag b/c we did it as 2 pitches - there was actually more drag coming from the bolts lower down even though i extended the runners at the 2nd set of double bolts - i clipped everything but probably should have skipped that one since there's another single pretty close to it. i'll do it a bit different next time and want to go back and try the alternate ending too.

[JC w KC redux]

Here ya go JC

how'd you do dat?