Author Topic: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4  (Read 11022 times)

mungeclimber

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Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« on: May 03, 2012, 03:37:49 PM »
Waldo? Gavin? Joe?

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

CruxLuv

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #1 on: May 03, 2012, 03:56:57 PM »
Now you're just rubbing it in.
The "best" climber is the one having the most fun.

Brad Young

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #2 on: May 03, 2012, 06:22:30 PM »
It's gonna rain.

Stay home and get me corrections on the SPH second edition. Surely (Shirely?) you must have some edits and corrections?

And, while you're at it, go up to Dennis' work and hold him hostage until he comes up with two names for two routes at Midguard. Damn, how hard can it be to come up with two names in an 18 month period?

And if you won't stay home or go beat up Dennis for me, will you be around to go over it with me this weekend (we still have your chair, although Katie's been using it).

mungeclimber

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #3 on: May 03, 2012, 06:32:27 PM »
rain at Pinnacles in May?  never!

Coming up Saturday morning. I'll bring the mark ups I have and we can go thru the rest Sunday when you provide a belay on a certain reverse facing crack?  (howz that for hostage taking? :) )

 
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

F4?

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #4 on: May 03, 2012, 07:47:42 PM »
Dude, yer chair is gone.

I'm not worthy.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #5 on: May 03, 2012, 08:12:42 PM »
Surely (Shirely?) you must have some edits and corrections?

he probably has edits and corrections but don't call him Shirley...
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waldo

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #6 on: May 04, 2012, 05:30:59 AM »
Is today tomorrow?  If so, I'm free after eleven, unless you bring Shirley.  She and I don't get along.

CruxLuv

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #7 on: May 04, 2012, 05:46:42 AM »
Hiya Bob!  Good morning-

Pretty sure we're heading to the East Side - meeting at 9:30.  I just texted Rob that you're avail too-

(sssshhhh...I'm playing hookey!)
The "best" climber is the one having the most fun.

mynameismud

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #8 on: May 04, 2012, 02:55:24 PM »
Not touching that one...

on a certain reverse facing crack?   
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #9 on: May 04, 2012, 09:11:12 PM »
better not, it hasn't been redpointed yet.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mungeclimber

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #10 on: May 04, 2012, 09:27:56 PM »
quick TR...

Supply Side Hamster to Crampster
Direct Route on Mono
TR Terranean
Wave Rider
Upper North Face Mono
Sinbad
Crack to right of Wee Little One.
Why

5 of these were new leads for me.

Wave Rider is pretty fun
Upper North Face of Mono has great rock and knobs, but is a bit heady. After clipping a piton on PP, sling a good knob at the first headwall. Then up, slightly left to keep it 5.6. Clip bolt, and finish the steepness above going directly up. Good knob climbing.
Sinbad direct start is not 5.8 any more, least not without using the tree.
Crack to right of WLO, is actually not bad. Haven't been on that in 20 years. It's cleaner than I remember, and it still has some questionable rock/blocks.
Why? is seriously jacked up. Not recommended. Looks intimidating, but it is relatively ok for someone with a long wingspan. Use a #3 or 4 camalot to protect the lean across to the first bolt. I don't clip the upper third bolt on Why, and instead traverse left clipping the last bolt on PickPocket.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mungeclimber

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #11 on: May 04, 2012, 10:28:36 PM »
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mungeclimber

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #12 on: May 04, 2012, 10:29:16 PM »
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

CruxLuv

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #13 on: May 05, 2012, 06:50:35 AM »

Why? is seriously jacked up (understatement). Not recommended. Looks intimidating, but it is relatively ok for someone with a long wingspan (not me!).


My main motivation to clean this route, besides the obvious need to get Rob's stuff off, was that he said I couldn't talk trash about it if I didn't climb it.  (although it's piece of shitness was obvious from afar)  I don't think I've ever dropped so many F Bombs in my life.

Okay - enough negative...and to be fair, the tree that mucks up the beginning moves was prolly no more than a glimmer in an acorn when the route was put up.

Yesterday freaking ROCKED!!  Quite possibly my favorite day so far - which I seem to say every time I'm there.

It was great to climb with Rob for the first time, especially to start out on one of his routes.  I seriously considered leading it but half way up on second was very glad I didn't.  It needs way more traffic to clean off the crud.  I did lead Crampster which was easy and fun.

By the time we hiked back and packed up, Bob came up the trail - perfect timing!

The weather was stellar even though driving thru rain for most of the way there had me concerned.  Happily the roads and sky started drying a few miles near and a little breeze kept the day from overheating.

All the routes were new to me except Sinbad and Direct.  And I loved them all (save one).  Most of them were interesting and challenging enough.  Not just straight up a face.

Great line up that I would highly recommend.  The climbing partners were icing on the cake.

Thanks fellas-
The "best" climber is the one having the most fun.

Gavin

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #14 on: May 05, 2012, 12:40:26 PM »
Glad to hear folks made it out yesterday. I'm just reading the topic now, and was away from PINN yesterday. Anyone in the area this weekend?

mungeclimber

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #15 on: May 05, 2012, 09:21:15 PM »
Up in Sonora now Gavin. Sorry.

Crux n Waldo, solid day!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

CruxLuv

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #16 on: May 06, 2012, 10:18:03 AM »









top o' sinbad


view of mono's upper north face - fun stuff!
The "best" climber is the one having the most fun.

F4?

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #17 on: May 06, 2012, 03:53:45 PM »


Nice!

Good to see you top out on top rope wall.
I'm not worthy.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #18 on: May 06, 2012, 04:16:18 PM »
I don't remember that bulge at the top of Sinbad...
One wheel shy of "normal"

JC w KC redux

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Re: Need Pinnacles Partner for tomorrow 5/4
« Reply #19 on: May 06, 2012, 07:39:49 PM »
had a banner day last weekend collecting stars.
yesterday we rambled to the highest peak with lofty aspirations
but turned away at the sign that said fine
even though i knew it was nein
i could not convince my sweet fraulein
and so we retreated and sidestepped to pose for pretty pictures atop a classic*** before the descent...and went...
for an adventure of sorts...
we scrambled and bushwhacked through brambles and deadfalls...
scratching and clawing, sinking and slipping back, until we did spy the long awaited prize
only to realize it was long neglected and sparsley protected we heard yet another buzzer ring...
with dejected looks - we skied the rotten slope and abandoned our packs further down and off the beaten path
to skitter and boulder lightly across another long scramble - only to be denied yet again by the ringing sound
that kept us still on the ground - knowing that we'll return another day to collect those elusive stars
we'll travel light and at the bases of those routes our resolve will reunite us without the tinnitus!
One wheel shy of "normal"