In penance for my lack of posting, I pulled up a TR post that my former partner made last year.
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Pinnacles doesn't have much of a selection in terms of quality crack climbs, but Kev and I have discovered a few gems lately. I lead Swallow Crack, 5.6, a few weeks ago, and I liked that mostly because it was solid and less crumbly than normal Pinnacles. Still, that was more face climbing with pro in the crack than anything else.
First up yesterday Kevin tried out this roof and felt a little creeped out by the fixed angle nailed in upside down and plugged in some more gear along the way (both the burden and benefit of being an aid climber: seeing a piton upside down that any other climber would think was "solid" just because it's iron... but also having a quadruple rack to plug more gear). The sling on the second angle was also worn and nearing the end of its life. Kevin got to the crux and it was wet. Boo! Particularly excellent footwork I could see from my view from the ground. I wouldn't expect anything less from the man who followed my first slab lead using no hands.
After that was Ordeal, a "meh" climb...
Then we jumped on Jorge's Crack 5.9, on Discovery Wall. A short, fun and true crack climb that Kevin floated up, despite it being a biiiiiiiit heads up at parts. Liebacking and fingerlocks required.
The best part was feeling like I could reach up at any point and have a solid place for fingers/hand lock, like climbing Crescent Arch in Tuolomne. My favorite climb on the planet - something magical about it that makes you feel like you're magic.
Other things of note: condors flying super low, peanut butter and honey sandwiches are our favorite, and hella boyscouts chill in Pinnacles when the weather's nice!
