Author Topic: Rap/Ground-up bolting at the Pinns  (Read 3118592 times)

clink

  • Meanderthal
  • ****
  • Posts: 4110
Re: Rap/Ground-up bolting at the Pinns
« Reply #140 on: September 30, 2014, 05:38:57 AM »
Quote
Who were the other "free stance" climbers that expressed this mentality Clink?  At pinnacles specifically?

 Walton, Holmgren, Bryant, Martin, Norris, Arthur and Cochran(me) were all subscribers to this sect.
 
 To explain why I have continued to "free stance" my answer would be Jack Holmgren's passion for it. He viewed it as a purist-one way style and practiced it as art.

 I am afraid that Aaron is convinced that stance climbers get double the virgins in the afterlife. He took to it last year with drive that reminds me of my predecessors.

 Catholics and Baptists, or today simmered down to with cream and sugar or black, I feel privileged to be part of the GU Mudncrud climbers.

 
Causing trouble when not climbing.

MUCCI

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 462
Re: Rap/Ground-up bolting at the Pinns
« Reply #141 on: September 30, 2014, 06:02:18 AM »
Right, I forgot many of those names.

Holmgren liked to snag FFA's in pins around the mid 80's, so there was a plus side to letting the hookers and aid climbers do the dirty work.

Bezerker route is one that comes to mind.

clink

  • Meanderthal
  • ****
  • Posts: 4110
Re: Rap/Ground-up bolting at the Pinns
« Reply #142 on: September 30, 2014, 06:08:11 AM »
Quote
hookers and aid climbers

Ha! Exactly Jack's sentiments.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5985
    • Mudncrud
Re: Rap/Ground-up bolting at the Pinns
« Reply #143 on: September 30, 2014, 09:11:21 AM »
Jim does stance when ever possible.  I think he does some hooking but goes mostly stance.  I was impressed to watch him stance drill from a shifting load stone with his feet 6 to 8 feet above the last bolt and that bolt was about 12 feet above a ledge.  He did the entire bolt standing on that one foot.  It was steep.  He limped for a little bit. 
Here's to sweat in your eye

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 6176
Re: Rap/Ground-up bolting at the Pinns
« Reply #144 on: September 30, 2014, 06:11:38 PM »
Jim is not human....he can drill from either hand...watched him gingerly hand over hand up the rope...no feet.

Then there's the crux bolt on Heritic...next to the key hand hold. The bold was drilled while his fingers held the hold and the bolt holder.
I'm not worthy.