Once Bitten, Twice Spanked - Rubine's Revenge

[JC w KC redux]

I logged my 50th onsight lead Thursday - Ordeal - a nice way for me and KC to celebrate our 15th wedding Anniversary. Ran up the Monolith's NE Corner after that and KC got her lead on via 1st Sis's Center Route.
Went back out Friday to try a couple of Rubine's moderate climbs. I took my first leader fall on Passion Play some months back - once bitten. Friday I made it up the 5.8 clean but got spanked by the 5.9 after hanging on my left hand too long trying to figure out the crux move with the sun directly in my face(no excuse). When KC said she didn't think she'd be able to pull off the crux, I issued myself a citation for aiding and abetting and got past the crux in poor style to finish the route so I could rap back down and clean it. Just wondering if anyone else has had similar experiences on Rubine's climbs.

[tjames]

Sounds like you guys have been getting all over the pinns! Rubine has put up some damn good routes. I was out on the East side on Wednesday and did Coyote Ugly. Awesome route! Definitely one worth doing. Beware though, you will get sunburned. Since its in the sun pretty much all day, you can't avoid it. By the way, the 10c section at the top now has a bolt. So either go for it, or know when you gotta move right for the mellow finish.

[Brad Young]

...after hanging on my left hand too long trying to figure out the crux move with the sun directly in my face(no excuse).

Oh to the contrary: that's one of the very best and very traditional excuses.

Not clear which Rubine's routes you were on after Passion Play?

[JC w KC redux]

Brad,
I was trying to keep their identity on the down low so as not to ruin any surprises for unsuspecting onsighters. I know many of the climbers on here are leading way above my level, but I also noticed that numerous Rubine routes are way above my skill level. I'm curious to know if his upper level climbs are as humbling as the moderate ones I've been on. The crux moves have been particularly tricky.

[JC w KC redux]

Sounds like you guys have been getting all over the pinns! Rubine has put up some damn good routes. I was out on the East side on Wednesday and did Coyote Ugly. Awesome route! Definitely one worth doing. Beware though, you will get sunburned. Since its in the sun pretty much all day, you can't avoid it. By the way, the 10c section at the top now has a bolt. So either go for it, or know when you gotta move right for the mellow finish.

it's on my star list but i think i'll be getting some more 8's and 9's under my belt before i tackle it...like the white whale...it beckons...

[mynameismud]

At the upper levels my experience has been mixed. 

When you start hitting 10's pay attention to the McCon routes.

[F4?]

When you start hitting 10's pay attention to the McCon routes.

PorQue?

It's always 1 more step up to that bolt!