Author Topic: things that make ya go hmmmm...  (Read 5746 times)

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6634
  • my density has brought me to you...
things that make ya go hmmmm...
« on: July 01, 2012, 02:59:14 PM »
is 4th class climbing considered a lead? e.g. Kermit, Tiburcio's X Backside

how 'bout onsight solos of boulder problems - e.g. routes on bouldering rock?

One wheel shy of "normal"

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6634
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: things that make ya go hmmmm...
« Reply #1 on: July 01, 2012, 06:15:58 PM »
so nothin'? really?
One wheel shy of "normal"

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6868
Re: things that make ya go hmmmm...
« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2012, 06:37:37 PM »

is 4th class climbing considered a lead? e.g. Kermit, Tiburcio's X Backside

how 'bout onsight solos of boulder problems - e.g. routes on bouldering rock?


Your question doesn't have one, single answer.

I think this is a question of style, and one that matters only to those of us OCD/meticulous enough to keep track of such things as the number of routes we've done in good style. I'll offer two thoughts of my own on the subject:

1. Those older class two, three and four routes are in the current guidebook for two reasons. First, they've been in a continuous series of Pinnacles guidebooks as routes from the start of Pinnacles guidebooks. I think the historical continuity is cool (they wouldn't be in a guidebook if they had been first climbed in the last 30 or so years). Second, most (but not all) of these "non-fifth class" routes go to the top of independent pinnacles, which provides just a little more justification for listing them as "routes."

2. For what it's worth, my personal style is to mark off as a "lead" any listed route that I have done not-on-toprope (I use the same method regarding the High Sierra where I mark off as a "climbed route" anything listed as a route in the guidebook, from class one to 5.10). For the specific Pinns "route," Bouldering Rock, I spent about two hours bouldering every iteration of it I could find, from fourth class to easy 5.11 and then claimed I'd "done" the route.

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5992
    • Mudncrud
Re: things that make ya go hmmmm...
« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2012, 07:08:58 PM »
I agree with Brad on this one.  It just depends, really it is up to you.
Here's to sweat in your eye

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6634
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: things that make ya go hmmmm...
« Reply #4 on: July 01, 2012, 08:25:29 PM »
thanks guys!

i like that answer!!

One wheel shy of "normal"

MUCCI

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 462
Re: things that make ya go hmmmm...
« Reply #5 on: July 02, 2012, 03:17:06 PM »
Pinnacles 4th, either on a route or as a route of it's own, is down right scary.

4th usually means no pro, where as 5.0 might mean something totally different.

I count all the lines that if you were to die whilst ascending, they wouldn't say "He was scrambling"

Oh, and if it's in the brown book, it is most certainly a route :)

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6634
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: things that make ya go hmmmm...
« Reply #6 on: July 02, 2012, 05:07:21 PM »
Pinnacles 4th, either on a route or as a route of it's own, is down right scary.

4th usually means no pro, where as 5.0 might mean something totally different.

I count all the lines that if you were to die whilst ascending, they wouldn't say "He was scrambling"

Oh, and if it's in the brown book, it is most certainly a route :)

belly laughin'
One wheel shy of "normal"