Author Topic: Ranger Bolts  (Read 7143 times)

Aaron McDonald

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Ranger Bolts
« on: July 22, 2012, 06:10:31 PM »
I attempted my first aid pitch on Ranger Bolts today.  The bolts are a wonderful history lesson and include the past 40 years of  bolting technology.  Leeper hangers with Star Dryvins, scary aluminum ring things with 1/4 inch bolts, SMC spinners and then finally a set of rap  chains which form a perfect 90 degree American triangle. You can actually see the the bolts move at the first belay station when you weight the anchor. Not to worry there was another Leeper/Star/Smiley face  for a backup at the belay station.  Very exciting stuff!  I think I would have felt safer hooking and hammering my way up. Any one have some recommendations for beginner aid practice at Pinns that is under A3?

Atomizer

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Re: Ranger Bolts
« Reply #1 on: July 22, 2012, 07:28:36 PM »
That was my first aid climb. I didn't know enough to be scared and I also didn't know about clipping in with lockers. At that point I only had one for my belay device. It is like a museum of bolts up there. That anchor is scary... but how can chain make an American triangle? Doesn't there have to be threes sides to a triangle?

I learned to hook by TR hooking up climbs at the Pinns. You can learn a lot about hooks in just one pitch.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Ranger Bolts
« Reply #2 on: July 22, 2012, 07:38:29 PM »
dude! Nothing like some good trauma for your first time out.
I just looked at FA for that one and it is 1973 w no RB listed.
Been reading some of Long's "anchors" today - including the section on bolts.
Thinking back to all the similarly coffin nailed climbs I've led in the last 7 months.
Sounds like you really hung your a$$ on the line on that one bro'.
Maybe we can find a PTSD therapy group in SC :)
One wheel shy of "normal"

Aaron McDonald

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Re: Ranger Bolts
« Reply #3 on: July 22, 2012, 08:03:36 PM »
..but how can chain make an American triangle? Doesn't there have to be threes sides to a triangle?

I exaggerated for effect . Very short anchor chains + my rappel device = triangle, only for a short time. Still the anchor chains were almost horizontally opposed.

Atomizer

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Re: Ranger Bolts
« Reply #4 on: July 22, 2012, 08:47:26 PM »
With those bomber bolts it might as well be an american triangle.

mungeclimber

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Re: Ranger Bolts
« Reply #5 on: July 22, 2012, 10:11:05 PM »
Son of Dawn Wall first pitch is a bolt ladder. Old bolts interspersed with good bolts. Clint did a nice job on that.


Regular Route on Balconies first pitch, but I haven't done it myself... yet.

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

skully

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Re: Ranger Bolts
« Reply #6 on: July 23, 2012, 07:19:51 PM »
Yer gonna die fer sure!(?) 
Just keep throwin' yourself at things. Seriously. Up mostly, though.............;D
Holy crap! oh, please little hook stay, please stay, that's right you're fine........And  Yes! off THAT manky shit. Whew.

Aaron McDonald

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Re: Ranger Bolts
« Reply #7 on: July 24, 2012, 07:17:36 AM »
I didn't know enough to be scared and I also didn't know about clipping in with lockers.

Atomizer,

Sorry if this is an obvious question but could you please explain? Are you suggesting using lockers instead of quick draws?

Atomizer

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Re: Ranger Bolts
« Reply #8 on: July 24, 2012, 09:32:12 PM »
When I did that route I got to the midway anchor and clipped two quickdraws into the anchor and clipped both of them in my belay loop. But now that I have climbed a lot more I would never get caught doing this. What if one bolt blew (which is possible) I would have been clipped in with one non locking point. I only anchor in with lockers now. Whether I am tied in with the rope, daisy, or PAS depends on the situation, but there will always be a locker at my main attachment point which should be equalized via sling or cordelette. You say the chains were horizonatlly opposed? You need to Equalize those points with slings long enough to allow a shallow 60 degree or less angle. Which would allow the bolts to share your weight and also protect from shock-loading in case of a failure of one point.

Earlier you talked about an american triangle, which is different than what you saw on Ranger Bolts. You had two bolts with chain at a large angle. Larger angles increase the force on each bolt exponentially, a 120 degree angle would 2x the force on each bolt. The triangle is when one piece of webbing is threaded through both bolts and then down to what apears to be an equalized point, Almost like an equilateral triangle, which increases the force on both bolts dramatically It is eas yto tie from rap stations but should only be used when both points are bomber!

If this stuff is new I recommend getting John Longs Anchors book. Or taking Pacific Edge Anchors Class.

Aaron McDonald

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Re: Ranger Bolts
« Reply #9 on: July 25, 2012, 01:55:20 PM »
If this stuff is new I recommend getting John Longs Anchors book. Or taking Pacific Edge Anchors Class.

Now I understand. I thought you had a trick to somehow make scary bolts more secure with a locker.  :)

Not that I am an expert but I have read Climbing Anchors and Advanced Climbing Anchors and have had a class on the subject.

I actually spoke with Tom Davis about the first anchor and the moving bolts. He told me that he put those up and that it was OK if the bolts did move because they are wedge style anchors and not going anywhere.