Author Topic: Is it Pinns Season yet?  (Read 34528 times)

F4?

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #20 on: September 03, 2012, 06:48:54 PM »
Ugly pinns bolter at work...
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waldo

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #21 on: September 03, 2012, 08:24:31 PM »
As it happens, I led Drop Zone on Saturday.  I was mildly upset after bolt three.  Gazing up at bolt five, I took it for bolt four.  Folks my age should not have to concentrate for so long just to clip a bolt.  Imagine my joy when I discovered that four really was hidden!  The runout at the top?  I kind of knew it was going on, but I was surprised by just how far it turned out to be when I reached the belay.  I couldn't see my last clip below the bulge. 

tjames

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #22 on: September 04, 2012, 06:26:04 AM »
Nooo don't add another bolt to Drop Zone. Sure, it has a good section of run out on choss rock that could  pop out at any grab, but that is what the Pinns is all about!

JC w KC redux

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #23 on: September 04, 2012, 04:54:29 PM »
As it happens, I led Drop Zone on Saturday.   

what time were you out there? i got on Bandit Bench around 10 and the Zone probably around 11:30 - didn't check. i think we were back in the parking lot around 2:30. i couldn't see #4 either and after the last bolt it was "hell and gone from Cartagena" but easy.
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waldo

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #24 on: September 04, 2012, 05:56:17 PM »
The three of us got on Bandit at about 8:15 and got to the upper tier a couple of hours later, very leisurely.  We then walked over to the West Face rappel, a good thing or we would have dropped a ton of rocks your way trying to rappel the route.  We were at the cars by noon.  It was most pleasant in the shade of Machete.  I didn't work up a sweat until about halfway out.  A photo or two may be on the way.  I can't figure it out, but Aaron and Creedence have promised to help me.  Another bolt?  I'll have to think about it.  It's quite dirty and a fall toward the top would go ninety feet, but the run is not unusual for Pinnacles. 

JC w KC redux

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #25 on: September 04, 2012, 06:27:55 PM »
The three of us got on Bandit at about 8:15 - Aaron and Creedence.

so did Aaron and Creedence climb with you?

i can't believe we didn't hear you guys above us.

i do remember hearing something fall when we were getting ready but wasn't sure if it was a rock or a bird in the trees.

no worries - we always don our helmets when we get near the base - never know when a whistler might come down!


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waldo

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #26 on: September 04, 2012, 06:40:16 PM »
Oops!  I got days mixed up.  My wife just reminded me that we climbed on Sunday.  It would have been tough for us to drop a rock on you.

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #27 on: September 04, 2012, 06:53:06 PM »
Oops!  I got days mixed up.  My wife just reminded me that we climbed on Sunday.  It would have been tough for us to drop a rock on you.

mystery solved!
no worries.
i have heard and seen rocks come off the wall when no one was around.
one day at Destiny Wall i think it was the wind...or just gravity.

what do you think about the pro on Alias Bandit Bench esp p1? total garbage except the one new bolt on the crux move - smc death hangers (one with a 1/4 inch bolt), one homemade POS and lots of Leepers on p2 - leader must not fall!

these are the ABB p1 beauties in order...

#2 thin smc with patina and 1/4" stud





#3 homemade rusted POS





and last but certainly not least - #4 full on patina
...the smc's are the thickness of a quarter - i drilled a hole in a quarter and carry it on my wrench sling to check thickness...i've started documenting all perceived worthless fixed pro...





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mungeclimber

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #28 on: September 04, 2012, 08:59:58 PM »
JC, did you add this to the rebolting thread?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

waldo

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #29 on: September 04, 2012, 09:19:20 PM »
I decided not to fool with the tree.  I clipped the one at the end of the ledge and one more.  Then I went up.  I like having some of those old bolts and hangers around, not for protection, but for history's sake.  It might make sense to leave the old ones in place (with caveats!) and draw a modern exit with one or two new bolts. 

mungeclimber

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #30 on: September 04, 2012, 09:30:04 PM »
I decided not to fool with the tree.  I clipped the one at the end of the ledge and one more.  Then I went up.  I like having some of those old bolts and hangers around, not for protection, but for history's sake.  It might make sense to leave the old ones in place (with caveats!) and draw a modern exit with one or two new bolts. 

totally agree with that.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #31 on: September 05, 2012, 06:52:05 AM »
JC, did you add this to the rebolting thread?

i didn't.
i figured it's been that way since 1972 and as an approach climb that probably sees decent traffic no one obviously has a problem with it. i'm just way more aware now.

not sure what you guys mean by the tree.

KC was questioning whether the bolt i show as #4 was for ABB or Trident. She thought i went too far over - i don't think so - esp if you look at the topo - it's a decent ways from #3 to #4. i think to get to the Trident bolt you'd actually have to duck under some branches - am i wrong?

just to confirm - i count the bolt at the crux/start as #1(it's fine) - then the smc w light patina #2 is not far/start of the grassy ledge - then the homemade rusty POS #3 as you prepare to leave the grassy ledge - and last the full on patina #4 is a decent length away but visible as you leave the ledge and traverse over and up a little.

is the bolt for Trident actually under the tree branches?

as far as i could tell i didn't traverse over any farther than i needed to and i didn't see any other bolts - unless it's easy to miss. i've only done the climb once before.
i didn't remember the moves up from #4 being so hard and neither did she - it only shows 5.6 on the topo but the moves seemed harder than that to us. maybe i was just unnerved after clipping what i perceived as crap.
i may also have selective memory of my onsight ascent - so jazzed by making some wild moves through the crux and surprised by the ease and abundance of bolts on p2 that i forgot the other parts!
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waldo

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #32 on: September 07, 2012, 06:37:58 PM »
Before the tree became so healthy, I remember traversing past another bolt (now leafy) to a couple of more in an incipient chute.  I'm not sure this squares with Brad's topo.  I'd trust him rather than my memory, however.  His drawings are by far the most accurate of any Pinnacles guide. 

F4?

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #33 on: September 10, 2012, 06:40:27 PM »
So this "guy" calls me and asks to go to the Pinnacles to rebolt one of his classic routes...



Some say he's done a few routes on the Balconies....


Others were out:



The master at work...


The end..

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JC w KC redux

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #34 on: September 10, 2012, 06:51:00 PM »
So this "guy" calls me and asks to go to the Pinnacles to rebolt one of his classic routes...

Dude! we met and climbed with him on SPH this past weekend!

Others were out:

That's JC leading and KC at the belay on ABB!!
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Brad Young

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #35 on: September 10, 2012, 08:19:53 PM »
So this "guy" calls me and asks to go to the Pinnacles to rebolt one of his classic routes...

Dude! we met and climbed with him on SPH this past weekend!

Others were out:

That's JC leading and KC at the belay on ABB!!


It's all about the shirts.

Brad Young

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #36 on: September 10, 2012, 08:32:10 PM »
Here's a photo that includes the same three climbers that are in Factor's photos. It was taken one week later and on SPH, not at Pinns. Anyone recognize the shirts?


mungeclimber

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #37 on: September 10, 2012, 08:54:03 PM »
OMG, don't let John bolt, even I won't be able to reach the clips!!! ;)
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #38 on: September 10, 2012, 09:05:17 PM »
OMG, don't let John bolt, even I won't be able to reach the clips!!! ;)

We made sure that these bolts could be clipped by less-than-six-foot-tall people:




No the real reason to not let John bolt is that he may not understand the process and the results. Here's the conversation that took place (verbatim):

BY, to JC after JC places a long, stainless 3/8" bolt in bullet granite: "Well, does that increase your confidence in properly placed bolts?"

JC: "uh, well... I guess."

(P.S. he did subsequently use said bolt - as part of a pair - for a rappel and toprope anchor.)

JC w KC redux

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Re: Is it Pinns Season yet?
« Reply #39 on: September 11, 2012, 07:09:10 AM »

JC: "uh, well... I guess."


he evidently has the mental capacity of a small soap dish!
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