Is it Pinns Season yet?

[JC w KC redux]

BY, to JC after JC places a long, stainless 3/8" bolt in bullet granite: "Well, does that increase your confidence in properly placed bolts?"

JC: "uh, well... I guess."

P.S. he did subsequently use said bolt

in my defense:
1) the professor in me thought it might be a trick question?
2) i answered as if i was trying to represent the average American?
3) i am so conditioned by Pinnacles that i don't fully trust any bolt?
4) i had a mini stroke from increased blood flow brought on by the endorphin rush of my first trad lead on granite?

[mungeclimber]

1) the professor in me thought it might be a trick question?
2) i answered as if i was trying to represent the average American?
3) i am so conditioned by Pinnacles that i don't fully trust any bolt?
4) i had a mini stroke from increased blood flow brought on by the endorphin rush of my first trad lead on granite?

too good, so I'm writing these down for future use.

[F4?]

Hoses this is a pinnacles thread.

More pictures

[JC w KC redux]

request granted Factor. KC and I did a redux day at the Pinns today. we got recognized by two different parties - it's all about the shirts!!! shout out to Trevor and Ryan - and a compadre from SLO that we'd talked to on several previous occasions - maybe they'll post up too...

so today was all about having some fun and gettin' in some pitches before KC leaves for a bidness trip back East coupled with a girlie gathering in the New River Gorge for some heinous sandstone climbing next weekend...

we decided to laze in the shade and warmed up on Corona followed by a romp on Dos Equis...i'd only led XX once before and forgot how much fun it is!

working the final crux moves above the last bolt...





KC following XX and showing some cut through the crux





the sun crested the Machete just as i touched back down and we decided to go cruise Chockstone - it was there we met an old aquaintance from SLO with a couple newbies Walking the Plank. KC wanted to get her lead on, so she jumped on the Regular Route...

check out those lats!





we ran a lap on Big Bad West on the way out - KC led it, dropped the rope when she was done and i followed free solo to clean and wrap it up...sweet as usual...

it was only 106 in the parking lot when we headed out around 2:30

just as a heads up - the West side ranger has asked if we'd all start signing the log on the back of the sign by the restroom...

[tjames]

Good meeting JC and KC and Arron and Creedence yesterday!

Hot hot day on the west side. I took my buddy up Costanoan and he loved it.

If anyone ever needs a partner, let me know!

[cobbledik]

I would think that more would sign the climber's log if it wasn't hidden from site on the other side of the infographic. Even putting a sign above the infographic the has a down arrow that says "Climbers sign in back here" would help.

Otherwise, I can't see how anyone is supposed to know about it without randomly coming across it on accident?

[JC w KC redux]

I would think that more would sign the climber's log if it wasn't hidden from site on the other side of the infographic. Even putting a sign above the infographic the has a down arrow that says "Climbers sign in back here" would help.
Otherwise, I can't see how anyone is supposed to know about it without randomly coming across it on accident?

good point. i'll mention that suggestion to her next time we see her.

[el pirata]

hey jc and kc! it was good to talk to you again by the chockstone! i ended up taking one buddy up toogs alligator, what an adventure! scary bolts though. we did rat race on tourist trap this morning, what a wild ride! grab your cams and do it next time you're out, it's well, well worth it!

you've got me all excited on coastanoan, too. that sounds like a lot of fun!

[JC w KC redux]

hey jc and kc! it was good to talk to you again by the chockstone! i ended up taking one buddy up toogs alligator, what an adventure! scary bolts though. we did rat race on tourist trap this morning, what a wild ride! grab your cams and do it next time you're out, it's well, well worth it!

you've got me all excited on coastanoan, too. that sounds like a lot of fun!

Right on! Nice job on the Alligator - we'll have to get back over there and try that one - was there no PO hazard?
Did you finish on the Terror?- the answer to that must be yes unless you guys did the Direct.
Well it sounds like all the Toog's bolts are garbage then - except those up top on the 5.9 Gallery Direct Finish - they're modern - nice and shiny.
Yes, I've had my eye on Rat Race for quite some time - it reminds me of the 1st climb I ever tried back in KY at the Red. Now that I am getting some all trad leads under my belt, I am sure we'll give it a run this season. There are several other routes on that buttress that I want to try as well.

Don't forget about Ordeal - SWEET! We talked to the guys that had been up on Costanoan on our way out - they baked! If you do it soon - jump on it early so the sun isn't directly in your face on p1 and then just enjoy the roast!

1st climb I ever tried at the Red River Gorge KY - Vector Trouble 5.10a**
This is one of my old climbing buddies - Gerrell Goodpastor - every time I look at Rat Race it reminds me of this...

[el pirata]

yeah, we did terror to finish the route. that slung tree was probably the most bomber piece the entire climb! strange to hand jam between tree and rock, though!

rat race DOES look just like that route! i found great gear on it, too. lots of nuts, cams under the roof. was a bit warm when we did it, which was probably why i was sweating so badly afterwards...ahem...

also checked out ordeal in the book. looks like fun! next time i'm out there for sure!

i gotta climb in kentucky sometime, i hear you get lucky in kentucky!

[JC w KC redux]

yeah, we did terror to finish the route. that slung tree was probably the most bomber piece the entire climb! strange to hand jam between tree and rock, though!

rat race DOES look just like that route! i found great gear on it, too. lots of nuts, cams under the roof. was a bit warm when we did it, which was probably why i was sweating so badly afterwards...ahem...

also checked out ordeal in the book. looks like fun! next time i'm out there for sure!

i gotta climb in kentucky sometime, i hear you get lucky in kentucky!

no doubt about the pro on Toog's!
gotta go hit the "race" and a few others over there on a Friday soon.
i had my share of good and bad luck in Kentuck...
the Red has some really nice routes - if you plan a trip back there and want some recs let me know - check out latest issue of Climbing! the New and Seneca Rocks in W VA are super sweet too...too bad the weather back there is so finnicky - right now is typically their best couple of months...

[JC w KC redux]

Aaron and I had fun yesterday on Elephant Rock, thrashed ourselves (we both got worked) trying to pull the crux on Sombrero - 5.8 my arse! and then we went around the Flumes backside and I led Rumbling Rampart and Aaron tried and took a spanking on Once Around the Backside - looks like we have two West side test pieces to work on now!

Aaron on top after a solid lead up Elephant Rock's Regular Route - nice job brudda! - I was astounded when I looked at the FA and saw it was 1940!