Author Topic: I'm Done/Let it Snow  (Read 292884 times)

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #40 on: November 16, 2012, 04:05:28 PM »
Well, Dave Harden led it and thought 5.9, and he's 60 years old now. (I can't believe he's 60!! I've been climbing with him since he was 35.)

In my experience rating climbs, there are two people who's opinions are almost always (maybe even always) the same as my own. Dave's one of them. Rob is the other. I can't really recall ever differing with either about how hard a given climb is.

in my defense - yes he may be 60, but think about how long he has been climbing and leading compared to me. i have a hard time with ratings but i am getting better. lately when i thought something was harder than listed - jut for fun - i checked Rubine's rating and found some to be a grade higher. i also make sure i look at the FA info on those to see if they are old school climbs - definitely keeps things interesting!
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mungeclimber

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #41 on: November 16, 2012, 04:14:02 PM »


So, has the groove, right of the corner gone? If not, you should do that!  Features!


I'm still trying trying to speculate about where it is. The pines on top are throwing. Has the feel of Burst, but what I think is an oak forest below looks like Enchanted Valley.

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Brad Young

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #42 on: November 16, 2012, 04:38:00 PM »

So, has the groove, right of the corner gone? If not, you should do that!  Features!

I'm still trying trying to speculate about where it is. The pines on top are throwing. Has the feel of Burst, but what I think is an oak forest below looks like Enchanted Valley.



Here's the route to the right (which, surprisingly, is harder than The Source):

B.  The South Fork Subway  5.10a ** The flared crack right of The Source.  Pro:  many micro and small, and one six inch piece.

Rob, this whole area is in the book now, and you'll have the most recent draft of that on Sunday. But the name of this route should give you some ideas.

And where is the Enchanted Valley?


J.C., here's a list of routes that you'd enjoy in the same area. All are on a different formation across the canyon from Beyond the Yellow Brick Road. These are on absolutely bullet granite and all are 65 to 75 feet long:

B.  Playing Chicken  5.7 *  Climb up and left on a very easy, knobby face 35 feet to a bolt (it’s near a black knob).  Continue up and left and then straight up past three more bolts.  End at a two-bolt anchor 75 feet up.

C.  The Unfergettin’  5.8 **  This route looks blank, and yet holds appear every time they are needed.

D.  Memory Loss  5.9 **

E.  Forget Me Not  5.9  **  Very fun, well protected knob climbing.  Pro: a few small pieces (for the crack up high).

F.  The Pro-Fessional  5.6 **  This is an excellent crack for leaders new to placing protection.  After finishing, move left to the Forget Me Not anchor.  Gear: small to three inches.

G.  About Face  5.9 ***  A clean slab route with fun knobs.  The first bolt is 20 feet above and slightly right from the ledge belay bolt.    

H.  Forget Me  5.10c  Move left at the second bolt, then continue up to join About Face.

I.  Giant Purple Gorilla  5.9 **  This route starts 20 feet right of the single belay bolt.  

J.  Slab in the Face  5.8 ***  This is an unusual and fun slab route in that its first half is defined by a series of scoops in the granite.  

K.  Just Say No  5.7  There are four cracks/crack systems just to the right of Slab in the Face.  This route starts in the (clean) third crack from the left.   After about 40 feet traverse left on a knobby slab.  Continue moving left past a left facing corner before finishing straight up to the Slab in the Face anchor.

L.  Busko Rides Again  5.10a *  (Not shown on topo.)  Start 20 feet right of Just Say No.  Six bolts lead up and slightly left to the top of the slab.  Move ten feet left to belay at the Slab in the Face anchor.





mungeclimber

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #43 on: November 16, 2012, 04:54:00 PM »
hrm, that doesn't leave me much time to figure it out.

I've scanned the entire length below the lake, so I'm thinking it's up. Now the question which side, and how far up.

hrm... will return to this after dinner
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Brad Young

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #44 on: November 16, 2012, 04:56:06 PM »
What Lake?

And, where's Enchanted Valley?

JC w KC redux

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #45 on: November 16, 2012, 05:37:06 PM »

J.C., here's a list of routes that you'd enjoy in the same area.

I'll gladly pay you Tuesday for a guidebook today!

you're killin' me! makin' me wish i'd spent every remaining weekend in the Pass.

we've had tons of fun over the last few months though - no regrets coyote.

i recorded my 77th onsight at Pinns in my climbing log today.

can't wait to get on some of those sweet SPH routes.

that is a most excellent list! definitely. fer sure.

i can warm up on a 6 and then tick off a 7, some 8's and some 9's - all starred!! almost too good to be true!!!

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mungeclimber

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #46 on: November 16, 2012, 06:14:17 PM »
is this it?

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #47 on: November 16, 2012, 08:05:18 PM »
You answer my questions and then I'll answer yours  ;D

Brad Young

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #48 on: November 16, 2012, 08:32:14 PM »
J.C., here's a photo of the first ascent of one of the routes I listed for you:




That's a pretty wall. And here's one of a different crag, the start of a 140 foot long 5.8 crack on South Fork Slabs - Center (there's a good argument on this one that the start is 5.9 - but it's stayed at a 5.8 rating and is super well protected):


JC w KC redux

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #49 on: November 16, 2012, 09:00:07 PM »
J.C., here's a photo of the first ascent of one of the routes I listed for you:


those look and sound really nice! thanks for sharing.

i just added in my onsights from Alabama Hills, Red Rocks and SPH bringing my total onsight tally to 99.

Kat stepped out of her comfort zone again last weekend and led Dos Equis -woohoo!
Photobucket is tweakin' right now or i'd upload a shot...
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mynameismud

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #50 on: November 16, 2012, 09:29:14 PM »
Looks sweet
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #51 on: November 16, 2012, 09:37:47 PM »
PC Lake

Enchanted Valley is a euphemism F4 used for down on WW area.


The recent pics are telling the story. It's on the south side of the river, upstream.


edit- maybe not south side after all if the shot was in the morning.

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Brad Young

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #52 on: November 16, 2012, 09:48:00 PM »
There's a lot of rock there on both sides of the river. Should I post the intro text from the book, or wait to hand it to you on Sunday?

Brad Young

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #53 on: November 16, 2012, 10:17:28 PM »
Actually fair is fair, you answered my questions and, as must be obvious now, you nailed South Fork Slabs - Left (and the route The Source) on Google Maps (as far as I can tell you did anyway).

It's a nice area. Here are some of the intro texts:


South Fork Stanislaus River

   The South Fork Stanislaus River originates near Cooper Meadow in the northern Emigrant Wilderness.  From Cooper Meadow it flows through a deep and wild canyon all the way to Pinecrest Lake.  Large slabs of granite line much of this canyon; these extend from below Burst Rock/The Gianelli Edges to below Frankensteins (which looms above Pinecrest Lake). The rock here is almost all excellent quality granite.  The setting is definitely one of the prettiest on the whole Sonora Pass Highway. The area is also relatively low in elevation.  On hot days, the crags here (especially the southeast-facing South Fork Slabs) get quite warm.  However, the close presence of the river can make up for this; a dip in the ice cold water provides immediate and wonderful relief.

   Climbs here are more than two miles upriver from the reservoir. Although it is possible to hike around Pinecrest Lake and then up-canyon, a more practical approach is made from easily accessible, dirt Gooseberry Road.  Gooseberry Road connects the Burst Rock/Gianelli Trailhead area to Dodge Ridge Ski Resort and Dodge Ridge Road (it can also be used as an alternative driving route to Burst Rock as shown on the Herring Creek Road chapter map at page xxx). 

   Drive to Gooseberry Road by exiting Highway 108 on Pinecrest Lake Road (to the right when driving east/toward Sonora Pass).  This exit is 1.9 miles past the Crabtree Road exit.  Drive on Pinecrest Lake Road 0.3 miles before turning right on Dodge Ridge Road.  This road continues uphill toward Dodge Ridge Ski Resort.  As Dodge Ridge Road approaches the resort it becomes a one-way, loop road (this change occurs 3.3 miles from Highway 108).  Gooseberry Road leaves Dodge Ridge Road near the end of this loop, so reaching it requires driving to and through the actual ski resort (to do this, turn sharply left at the start of the ski resort parking lot).  At 4.1 miles from the highway, dirt Gooseberry Road appears on the right (the Forest Service road designation, Road 4N34 appears on a post 50 feet up from the pavement). Continue uphill, through many curves (good bouldering is found among these curves, especially on the left, seven-tenths of a mile up this road). At 6.5 miles from the highway, (2.4 miles from Dodge Ridge Road) follow a dirt side road to the left.  This leads in 50 feet to a large, flat, open area on the right.  Park here (GPS for parking:  N38 11.816, W119 56.105).   

   It takes about 30 minutes to hike from parking to Ski Lift Cliff - Left, and five to ten more minutes to walk down and around to the center and right parts of this formation.   The South Fork Slabs are 35 to 40 minutes from parking. Start the approach by walking east on the dirt side road. The road quickly passes a closure gate and then curves left and starts steeply downhill (in the winter, this part of the road is part of Dodge Ridge ski run #8).  After one third of a mile on the ski run/road, arrive at the run’s bottom lift and first aid hut.  Continue just past these structures, then turn left and walk north through a dense aspen forest (this can be marshy early in the season).  The forest ends at a low granite slab about 100 yards from the lift.  Go up the slab and onto the top of a low, open granite ridge.  Once on top of the granite ridge, turn right (northeast); walk 300 yards along the ridge top (the river and the South Fork Slabs come into view during this walk, Ski Lift Cliff is below, to the left, facing the river).  After 300 yards, drop slightly down and left to arrive at the northeast end of Ski Lift Cliff (identify this northeast end by locating Cheyenne and Sierra, two very noticeable, 20 foot high crack routes on the end of the cliff). 

Ski Lift Cliff

   Ski Lift Cliff is the river side of the low granite ridge that makes up the last part of the approach to the area (it is down and to the left when walking northeast along the granite ridge top). The cliff faces northwest (toward the South Fork Stanislaus River). Most of the climbing routes on Ski Lift Cliff are in the shade most of the day....



South Fork Slabs

   The longest and best routes in the South Fork canyon are found on the right (northwest) side of the river (“right” is measured as the river flows.)  Approach them by walking down easy, open slabs from the northeast end of Ski Lift Cliff (from near the short crack routes Cheyenne and Sierra). Crossing the river is a critical part of this approach and may not be possible until at least mid-season.  Although these slabs get all-day sun and can get hot, the river is only a few feet away from each slab and relief from the heat is therefore quick, easy and fun....


It's a wonderful place and there is still untouched rock there. One formation in particular that has nice rock and, as of yet, no routes, is 1/4 mile west of Ski Lift Cliff (Ski Lift Cliff - West?). I've got at least two steep slabs I want to do on already-climbed formations that will be in the 5.11 range. Jim and Alan and I have a hard ass crack that we've tried too on South Fork Slabs - Right that we still need to get clean (and Alan and Steve have a sick crack project that I think they'll get next year which is in the "easy" 5.12 range). The offwidth Heavy Mettle is also on South Fork Slabs - Right.

And all the bolts on all the routes are 3/8" stainless steel.

We'll get down there as early as next season allows (if any of you are willing to go).

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #54 on: November 17, 2012, 07:27:24 AM »
Nice
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squiddo

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #55 on: November 17, 2012, 07:44:27 AM »
Brad-place sounds really great and i think and beside wifey having son --#2 my Summer plans are starting to build. Looks like a good spot
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mungeclimber

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #56 on: November 17, 2012, 09:50:16 AM »
Please! Would love a tour!

Tim and I kept threatening to explore the other side of the river. Nothing to see tho, move along. :)
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JC w KC redux

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #57 on: November 17, 2012, 10:05:38 AM »
Well, last weekend totally shifted my mind to Pinns climbing.
Although it'll be after Thanksgiving before I can get down there again.

That'll work since it looks like it's going to be a climbless weekend.

It's raining cobbles and flakes with no clearing in sight.

Maybe it's a good weekend to go onsight Wet Kiss, Wet Paranoia or Wet Willie...

Other good choices might be any of the water chute routes or anything with big polished slopers :)
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Brad Young

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #58 on: November 17, 2012, 10:52:56 AM »

Please! Would love a tour!

Tim and I kept threatening to explore the other side of the river. Nothing to see tho, move along. :)


Yes, a tour early next season. But a tour presents a difficult question: do we do a "first tour" with or without a bolt kit?

It's interesting that the South Fork canyon can be seen plainly when driving up Highway 108. Massive amounts of granite are visible to the naked eye. But it all looks low angle; in fact all of the stuff is very low angle, except for the cliffs close to the river, and those can't be seen from any distance away, anywhere.

And to the extent there is curiosity about what's there, the hike in looks so damn long as to not be worth it. Not even close (it's a long hike up from Pinecrest Lake - Tricia and I did the hike in reverse last July 4th and it took over three hours - and she isn't a slow hiker).

In June or so of 2011, Tim asked me if I knew of anything up in that canyon. I told him, truthfully, all that I knew about it then: that Jim had gone in there and done three or four lower angle crack routes. That's what Jim had told me. And he was being truthful with me too. Casual in his comments, but truthful. The story is that his girlfriend Leslie had been looking for a backpack destination for her and her dogs and had hiked down in there through horrible, horrible brush and talus. Looking for a less desperate way out, she'd stumbled upon the ski lift and runs, and voila (!), she found easy access. That same summer she and Jim went in there and did a few of the easier crack routes. Then she moved away and two summers later (August 2011), Jim took Joel and I there. Now, by rough count, there are 50 routes and counting.

Rob, you'll want to review the FA list too about some of the crazy stuff Jim's done down there, onsight, first ascents, free solo, without anyone even knowing that he was out climbing. He gets into this zone sometimes where he is like Superman in his strength and concentration, but it also scares me. As an example, he did the first ascent of the route Slab in the Face onsight, free solo, and all alone. He asked me to bolt it later, which I did on the second ascent (I left it a little spicy to respect his FA). This route starts up a gorgeous set of scoops that positively ask to be climbed. Then, 35 feet up, the wall goes blank. There is one knob that allows a crux move, and then, once a climber is on top of the knob, there's another crux on a blank slab, now 40 feet up. And a fall from either crux would have resulted in a ledge hit at the start of the route, and then a 100 foot tumble down class four to a vertical 30 foot cliff! The debate about the route is whether it is 5.8 or 5.9 (it's as hard as 5.8 can get). It's also three stars for sure.

Some more photos, showing first a good chunk of the South Fork Slabs from the top of Ski Lift Cliff (but, significantly, the river is mostly invisible due to the Ski Lift cliff-line):




The river in late season, directly out from South Fork Slabs - Left:




mungeclimber

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Re: I'm Done/Let it Snow
« Reply #59 on: November 17, 2012, 11:30:43 AM »
without kit, for my part. You've supported many of my FAs. I should return the favor.


my screen shot was the opposite side. you can see it in your later pic, if you know what to look for.

Even though it's a ways in from the lake. Early season overnight trips on the south facing stuff could be amazing!

That effectively could cut Pinns season by a couple months, depending on the snow line, and how much ice is on the trail on the SE shore of the lake.

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge