I promised a TR so here it is:
We spent Day one of the unofficial Autumn Rockpile on the Unmentionable, Pipsqueak and the Carousel.
I led the Un and then everyone else followed. Aaron trailed a rope so he could TR the 5.9 (Erectile Dysfunction). KC and I didn't watch or climb it since I would rather go back and onsight it another day. I was a bit disappointed when I looked up the FA later and saw that it was bolted on rappel - oh well...nefarious methods didn't keep us from enjoying Costanoan, so I guess you just have to let some stuff slide. One of my West Valley students (Chris) came out to join us for the day and he did his first lead on the Un! Scared the crap out of me and Aaron when he slipped a little just before making the last move up to clip the bolt. I was belaying and we were both watching and coaching him closely. Aaron and I talked later and decided maybe that wasn't the wisest choice for a first lead!
It was Pipsqueak next, where Aaron onsighted Rightfoot while KC led the Reg Rte with me belaying her. She and I'd been up there once before, but it was a long time ago, so it was still like an onsight lead for her. I didn't watch Aaron and he promised not to tell me anything - so I could get that one onsight too. Almost everyone (including Chris!) led the Reg Rte. It was good to see Crux get her lead back on after such a long hiatus. I onsighted what I thought was Little Pipper and then onsighted Rightfoot. You should have seen me stem out before that first bolt - whew!
We hiked down and did a couple of the toprope problems on the Carousel after Pipsqueak. I had a pointy stick/branch do a venipuncture on my left arm on the way down from Pipsqueak - bizarre! It looked like a bad stick at the phlebotomist.
I managed to clean the 5.10b on the Carousel. KC couldn't quite figure out how to get to the first pocket - she gave it a helluva try though!
We all had a fun night camping even though no fires were allowed.
I tried to get them to go for a moonlight hike to the West side via Old Pinnacles but couldn't get everyone onboard.
Sunday - Crux and hubby split and Aaron, KC and I headed for Marmot. Aaron spearheaded the approach and did a great job finding the way when it got a bit tricky after turning left above the slabs. We got up there and explored around a bit before starting up Marauder 5.7*. I led, then Aaron led and KC followed. We did Brad's Dead on the Shoulder 5.8* route next - again - I led, then Aaron led and KC followed. Those were both really cool routes. We prowled around a bit - Aaron wanted to scope out the Regular Route and we also found Furry Marmot Substitute while we were back there. We ended up coming back out and I led Marmot with a Hand Grenade 5.8*. I'd had my eye on it in the book but was a bit intimidated when we first got up there - especially since the bolts were so widely spaced. I just about popped off the crux move and then ran it out to bolt two, where I stepped up to clip and then stepped back down for a short rest. I think I veered right a bit sooner than what the topo shows - after a big rectangular block. I wanted to try the last part of the water chute, but it was a bit overhanging, devoid of the nice chunky hand holds found elsewhere on the line and I was already uncomfortably high above bolt 2. I ran it out to the ledgy area below the final headwall and started looking for bolt 3. I looked everywhere and could not find it! I remembered the topo showing the path go left to the bolt and around the end to go up. I slung a small knob below what I perceived as a more sensible and direct line to the top but I was determined to look for that bolt some more and wanted to honor the original FA path. I traversed left over thick moss with crusty scaly rock above. No bolt. As I called down for slack so I could move around and gain the summit, I remember thinking - "No one would put a bolt here - the climbing is too easy!" I had another surprise at the summit. We could see the anchor slings from the other climbs, but we didn't know one of the bolts was a joke! It looks like 3/16" hardware store junk with an aluminum spoon hanger! Aaron and KC both took the "Direct Finish" - which I'd like to submit as an alternate finish to the route. I'd also like to add a bolt somewhere in the vicinity of the small sling knob. Aaron and KC both looked for the 3rd bolt on the way up - to no avail. We had an awesome day and a great weekend!!!
here's my modified topo and Direct Finish proposal
i put a ? by the 60 feet since we were just shy of the middle mark when i summited - i didn't measure how much rope was left when we finished the rappel - oops...
and the guidebook photo
and the hideous anchor bolt and hanger (the other bolt looks okay except not stainless) - and I guess this should go on the rebolting thread too!
JC with the 3 star salute after leading the Unmentionable
Aaron leading Marauder
KC following Marauder
JC entering some serious runout on Marmot with a Hand Grenade
