Author Topic: Resurrection Wall  (Read 23752 times)

Atomizer

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Resurrection Wall
« on: November 01, 2012, 09:24:39 PM »
Anyone done this?  If so what level of mindset and physicality do I need to bring to the table?

JC w KC redux

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #1 on: November 02, 2012, 07:26:27 AM »
i look at that wall and cringe...
i know Brad made some comments on here a while back about Herchel Berchel having the worst quality rock in the monument and thinking he was going to die - but that probably has no bearing on the RW line.
RW looks like a cool climb on the topo other than the 5.11 sections :)
One wheel shy of normal

Brad Young

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #2 on: November 02, 2012, 07:37:48 AM »
Save Herschel Berschel. Let it be the last climb you're going to do at Pinnacles.

F4?

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #3 on: November 02, 2012, 07:58:38 AM »

The 11a route....(I still need to upload my picture)..

Bring a free mind for the regular route....Imagine Rupert running it out....That and a bolt kit since you'll be up there. If you don't mind???

It's a sweet route.

The 1st pitch is 5.9, right at the belay. It was in the sun and just felt odd. At lest Clint had replaced the bolt for the crux.

The 2nd 5.11. I had a devil of a time getting the moves and really didn't feel like I freed it. Everyone says the moves pull you to the right of the bolts....but I kept getting suckered to following the bolts. Ugh! (I would love to see every-other bolt replaced, but some thought will need to be put into the project as the current bolts will need to be snapped off).

The 3rd, amazing, use small cams/ nuts. The belay is on top of a huge chalkstone. One of the belay bolts could be replaced. That will help future efforts to rebolt the 2nd.

3rd, akward...but fun.

I'll try to get some pictures up tonight.
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Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #4 on: November 02, 2012, 09:06:28 AM »
F4, Thanks for the info. I would love to see some pics. I'm starting to train for the Westside mega linkup. Sounds like I need to bring a whole rack of screamers and stretchy rope for this one.

I need a re-bolting clinic. Any takers for tomorrow at The Pinns? I'd lead this classic!!!

Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #5 on: November 02, 2012, 09:09:28 AM »
My guidebook is MIA at the moment, any chance someone would email me the topo for Resurrection wall?

Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #6 on: November 02, 2012, 09:46:30 AM »
I've received the topo. Thank you! I will leave you anonymous for Brad's sake.

mungeclimber

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #7 on: November 02, 2012, 09:52:05 AM »
Save Herschel Berschel. Let it be the last climb you're going to do at Pinnacles.

or, you could skip it entirely and live a fulfilled life of quality climbing at Pinns without it.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mungeclimber

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #8 on: November 02, 2012, 09:53:54 AM »
Le Petite Mort coveted second lead ascent awaits!

It's an impertinent little climb.  watch for the loose mud at the top.

The muds have pics on their smugmug if they can post.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #9 on: November 02, 2012, 09:56:07 AM »
I've received the topo. Thank you! I will leave you anonymous for Brad's sake.

Why leave them anonymous? I would have got it to you myself but I've been wrapped up too much at work. Guidebook information is for the benefit of climbers; if you want to make photocopies or faxes or the like, have at it. You're welcome to any information I've got, or that I've put out there in any form and at any time.

And I'll gladly do some rebolting of that route with you if we can find time to do it. I'm very good at replacing and carefully patching, and we could do several bolts on that route in a day, or more than that in two days. Do you have any time during the week of November 12 to 16?

mungeclimber

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #10 on: November 02, 2012, 10:00:49 AM »
Guidebook information is for the benefit of climbers; if you want to make photocopies or faxes or the like, have at it. You're welcome to any information I've got, or that I've put out there in any form and at any time.


Except wholesale copying of the book into an electronic medium and redistributing electronically, yes?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #11 on: November 02, 2012, 10:15:04 AM »
Can't do that week Brad. I have all next week free, but than I will be gone for three weeks or so in Zion, The Creek, and Cochise!!! So stoked. Let get some West-side re-bolting done in December and early January. I was just laid off so I have tons of time now and my arms are stronger than I can remember plus my breasts are getting much bigger too....

I am thinking of heading out tomorrow with John Stein, and doing this thing to analyze what should be replaced. I might replace a bolt on the anchor as suggested but I don't have a tuning fork. I'm in SJ today, anyone in the area have one I could borrow today and use tomorrow?

Brad Young

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #12 on: November 02, 2012, 10:17:00 AM »

Except wholesale copying of the book into an electronic medium and redistributing electronically, yes?


That's an interesting question. As you know, I spent just over $38,000.00 to self publish the book and to thereby make sure it stays out of the hands of for-profit corporations. That's 38,000.00 that I spent out of pocket. By way of sales of the book to date, I've recovered enough that I'm only out of pocket about $12,000.00 now.

I think I deserve a reasonable chance to recover that money, which I feel I spent for the good of the climbing community. I think that wholesale conversion of the book into electronic format and distribution in that form would eliminate that chance and that it would therefore be unfair.

So, yeah, I guess you've made a good point, and that my comment above does have restrictions. Act within reason.

Brad Young

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #13 on: November 02, 2012, 10:20:29 AM »
Can't do that week Brad. I have all next week free, but than I will be gone for three weeks or so in Zion, The Creek, and Cochise!!! So stoked. Let get some West-side re-bolting done in December and early January. I was just laid off so I have tons of time now and my arms are stronger than I can remember plus my breasts are getting much bigger too....

I am thinking of heading out tomorrow with John Stein, and doing this thing to analyze what should be replaced. I might replace a bolt on the anchor as suggested but I don't have a tuning fork. I'm in SJ today, anyone in the area have one I could borrow today and use tomorrow?

I might be over there Tuesday and Wednesday of next week (if the passes across the Sierra are closed), and I might be able to get over there Thursday for the day even if the passes are open. Could you work a day in next week? (That wall is frigid by December).

Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #14 on: November 02, 2012, 10:23:40 AM »
Brad, You name the day(s) and I'm in. I need to work just one day in SJ.

Brad Young

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #15 on: November 02, 2012, 10:25:29 AM »
Brad, You name the day(s) and I'm in. I need to work just one day in SJ.

Nice. Are you OK with short notice? Could you PM me a phone number and/or email?

Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #16 on: November 02, 2012, 10:35:28 AM »
That's fine by me, I will keep my plans vague and open for mid-week. Check your mlode address for my info. Let me know if it didn't get though.

F4?

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #17 on: November 02, 2012, 11:33:59 AM »
Okay, okay, I can't stand it...
It was something like 114 degrees that day. We were pretty worked as the lower section was in the sun. I was done after the 2nd...

Here you go:

1st Pitch- LandShark



2nd Pitch off the belay..


2nd pitch, farther out...


4th Pitch going into the akward section...


4th Pitch belay anchors (you don't see them from below!)


I'm not worthy.

mungeclimber

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #18 on: November 02, 2012, 11:45:11 AM »
Atom, I have two tuning forks with keeper cables you're more than welcome to use. They are at the house, so you would have to swing by this evening while I'm packing for 108.

email me at my sph address or pm me to square up on the time this evening if North SJ (880 and Montague Expressway generally) isn't too far for you with traffic and all that.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #19 on: November 02, 2012, 11:47:45 AM »
Le Petite Mort coveted second lead ascent awaits!

It's an impertinent little climb.  watch for the loose mud at the top.

The muds have pics on their smugmug if they can post.

I thought I got the second ascent?
Here's to sweat in your eye