Author Topic: Resurrection Wall  (Read 40735 times)

mynameismud

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #20 on: November 02, 2012, 11:50:13 AM »
Resurection is really good, a must do.

HB is fun, do not save it for last the are others that can wait
Here's to sweat in your eye

Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #21 on: November 02, 2012, 01:20:27 PM »
That looks amazing! I'm getting psyched.

Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #22 on: November 02, 2012, 02:11:54 PM »
Herschel Berschel is that 854 on this topo?
And Resurrection Wall is 857... Right?

JC w KC redux

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #23 on: November 02, 2012, 02:17:35 PM »
Herschel Berschel is that 854 on this topo?
And Resurrection Wall is 857... Right?


correct on HB 854

Resurrection Wall is 855 5.11a**
Reincarnation Variation 5.10a* is 856
857 is the Great Spectacular 5.12d A0* - book says that has never been freed despite numerous attempts
One wheel shy of "normal"

Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #24 on: November 02, 2012, 02:29:43 PM »
I've been contemplating trying out 857... the earlier post was a joke.
But I might have to use some glue-ons.

mungeclimber

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #25 on: November 02, 2012, 03:11:37 PM »
I thought I got the second ascent?

you followed on TR. I don't remember you leading it. mudworm lead it.  Did you lead it too? Memory could be faulty on my end.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #26 on: November 02, 2012, 06:00:33 PM »
you followed on TR. I don't remember you leading it. mudworm lead it.  Did you lead it too? Memory could be faulty on my end.

I lead it after mudworm.  The top out is spooky.

someone needs to lead 857.  heard that last pitch is really good and that the first pitch is better than is looks.
Here's to sweat in your eye

Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #27 on: November 02, 2012, 07:33:49 PM »
I'm going to check it out, but on Sunday now.

mynameismud

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #28 on: November 02, 2012, 09:55:48 PM »
sweet, look forward to hearing about this.  Take pics
Here's to sweat in your eye

waldo

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #29 on: November 03, 2012, 09:15:44 AM »
I climbed 856 with Jack.  He wanted to see what Higgins felt like climbing the second pitch free.  Getting to the belay atop the block was one of my more exciting passages at Pinnacles. Jack gave it the college try.  He tried climbing pitch two three times.  He'd get to the last bit of the overhang and run out of gas.  I'd lower him all the way back down.  He'd rest until he could give it another go.  Try number three was his best, but he came on just short of the 5.8 section. 

Herchel Berchel?  Only if you want to die young.  I once (1987?) went sixty feet up the first pitch and got nothing in that would hold close to body weight. My best piece was likely slung moss. I'm with Brad.  It's last on my list.

Brad Young

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #30 on: November 03, 2012, 09:50:25 AM »

Only if you want to die young.


If you change the capitalization and the punctuation, I've been real close on that very route: "Only if you want to die, Young."

And, the funny thing is, to make sure I'd "done" the route, I've climbed it twice; I've led and followed each pitch clean. Yuck.

waldo

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #31 on: November 03, 2012, 10:53:06 AM »
You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din

er . . . Gunga Young

Brad Young

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #32 on: November 03, 2012, 11:52:10 AM »
You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din

er . . . Gunga Young


You know, that brought to mind the start of his other greatest poem - which, if anything, is even more applicable to Pinnacles:

"Oh, East is East and West is West, and never the twain shall meet,
Till Earth and Sky stand presently at God's great Judgment Seat..."

waldo

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #33 on: November 03, 2012, 02:28:52 PM »
Kipling forgot the High Peaks!

Aaron McDonald

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #34 on: November 03, 2012, 04:25:38 PM »


Gunga Young, was this the expression on your face during the first or the second assent?

Brad Young

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #35 on: November 03, 2012, 07:28:37 PM »
I wasn't that happy either time.

Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #36 on: November 03, 2012, 07:39:44 PM »
I talked to Greg Barnes, we've got he bolts we need to work on this thing. I still plan on investigating tomorrow. Will report back here when I have time. Going look at the one to the right too. I've been really curious about that one.

Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #37 on: November 04, 2012, 06:59:21 PM »
It went well with no falls.  I may have removed more loose lichen on this route than any other route I've ever done. But it was super fun and was a really great route. Plus I succesfully introduced 16 year old John Bolte to runout pinnacles climbing, may have another Mud Master in the making. Pictures will follow in the next few days.

Brad Young

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #38 on: November 04, 2012, 09:06:58 PM »
How'd the bolts look?

More Mud Masters are always welcome (after his homework is done).

Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #39 on: November 04, 2012, 09:24:29 PM »
The bolts were quite thrilling. There is a pretty good layer of rust and spinners. 20-25 bolts should be replaced. There is a mix of 1/4", 3/8" stud or split shaft, and a good amount of Star Drives. F4's report form before was right on. 8-9 to replace on pitch 1, 6 to 8 on pitch two if every other or third is replaced on the ladder. Two on  pitch three, and 4 on pitch  4. Plus 1-2 at each anchor and possibly a new anchor at the top. That's my vision, but that is up for debate.