Author Topic: Resurrection Wall  (Read 40739 times)

mynameismud

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #40 on: November 05, 2012, 05:51:10 AM »
We replaced a couple on the ladder a few years back.  Did those look ok?

did you get a chance to look at the route to the right?
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F4?

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #41 on: November 05, 2012, 07:50:41 AM »
As always what Clint and Mr Mud do is good (who can complain w 1 or 2 new bolts). I was happy to clip new bolts at the start of the 2nd pitch.

What did you think if clipping the bolts on the 2nd. Jim Mc said he free climbed to the right of the bolts and reached over. I tried, but was suckered back over.

And for accessing from the top...anchors would be needed, but since the "top out" is over to the climber left...they'd be useless after the clean up work....just a thought.
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CruxLuv

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #42 on: November 05, 2012, 08:58:29 AM »
Great pics on FB, Adam - whew!
The "best" climber is the one having the most fun.

Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #43 on: November 05, 2012, 11:42:47 AM »
I just stopped by Greg Barnes place. The ASCA has supplied all the accessories that are needed to make this thing happen. I now have a combination of 3/8" and some shorter 1/2" powers bolts. Also a handful of Glue ins for The Heat Seeker.

The two new bolts were a welcome sight at those two challenging sections. But obviously that was just a start. They were in good shape. Any clue how long those bolts are?

I will cross post the photos latter today. Along with Mike Bolte's shots from the other side of the valley with his 500mm lense


F4?

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #44 on: November 05, 2012, 11:57:08 AM »
I thought Mr. Jim Mc had replaced the crux bolts on Heat Seeking. But that might have been 2+ yrs ago.

If stainless, 3.5?

Maybe he'll post up...

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Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #45 on: November 05, 2012, 12:51:41 PM »
Some of the bolts were replaced on Heat Seeker
Jim sent me this:

Quote
The bolts are a mixture of old and older carbon steel with exception of the two stainless steel belay / rappel bolts placed by Tom Davis a few years back...
There are 3 original stud bolts remaining (1,3, 5) on heat seeker. 

Bolt 2 is a 1/4" button head - you should be able to pull and use the same hole drilled to the larger size. 

Bolt 4 was originally a 1/4" button head with fixed pin just below. Paul Gagner and partner a few years later placed a botched rawl stud a couple of inches to the left.  The then placed another a couple more inches to the left and scammed my pin.  In the mid 90s I pulled the 1/4" and replaced with a 5-piece carbon steel.  I also pulled the Paul bolt and that hole would be good to put the replacement in.  The botched one is too deep to use and I was unable to get any purchase to extract.

My brother replaced the 6th bolt (also previously a 1/4" button head) with a 5 piece carbon steel using the same hole.    This placement is in an embedded cobble.  Recommended putting replacement in rock nearby and try to avoid any placements in cobbles.


mynameismud

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #46 on: November 05, 2012, 01:44:13 PM »
They were in good shape. Any clue how long those bolts are?

3" I do not think they are stainless but they do not get a lot of water so they should be ok for a while.

Hey, while over on Heat Seeker maybe put a glue in on the 3rd(?) bolt of Future Shock.  the current bolt is in all the way but wiggles just a bit
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Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #47 on: November 05, 2012, 02:27:24 PM »
The Future Shock bolt is on the list. But I need a glue-in bolt mentor first. Thornburg is supposed to do it.

The Great Spectacular looked pretty wild, but I was little too spent mentally after my first time up the Resurrection Wall. I need someone strong like Mittens to put the draws up for me.

As for the Resurrection Rebolt I was think we would put in a new anchor at the top of the route, which would allow for rapping down to the variation anchors and then from there to the ground if they reach. I think it would reach with two 60M ropes. The walk off isn't very pleasant. I may have spotted a new line on the wall, but I need to look at it again with some binos.

mynameismud

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #48 on: November 05, 2012, 03:07:42 PM »
The Future Shock bolt is on the list. But I need a glue-in bolt mentor first. Thornburg is supposed to do it.

The Great Spectacular looked pretty wild, but I was little too spent mentally after my first time up the Resurrection Wall. I need someone strong like Mittens to put the draws up for me.

As for the Resurrection Rebolt I was think we would put in a new anchor at the top of the route, which would allow for rapping down to the variation anchors and then from there to the ground if they reach. I think it would reach with two 60M ropes. The walk off isn't very pleasant. I may have spotted a new line on the wall, but I need to look at it again with some binos.


many many kudos for all the rebolting.  Glue ins are pretty simple the bulk of the work is in drilling that friggin hole.

Get mittens up there dang it.

Hey man no jumping my lines!  :)
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F4?

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #49 on: November 05, 2012, 03:14:17 PM »
Quote
I may have spotted a new line on the wall, but I need to look at it again with some binos.

Ban him. I spotted it 1st, after Mungie did or was it Strum???

Yah, glue ins are sweet, but they take a huge arse hole.

Damn that Jim, I thought he had done the deed on Heat, but he musta not gotten back to it.

Maybe he can drill out the glue in hole with a "special" bit.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #50 on: November 05, 2012, 04:45:26 PM »
New line? Ooooooo, sweet!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #51 on: November 05, 2012, 05:44:48 PM »
Brad says the line is mine. He didn't say anything about reservations from any of you guys. This aint SPH...

I do plan on going out there on Wednesday and working on the anchor situation. I might stash my 70m static line up top for the duration of the project. I plan on possibly placing a new top anchor as the Manzanita on top is dead. And it truly is worth getting to the summit on this one. This seems like step one. Then I go down and start replacing the anchors.

I'm accepting strong (or just arms) for this project. This is an amazing route, on spectacular rock, up one of the coolest walls in pinnacles. I've already forgotten how terrifying getting to the first bolt was...

Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #52 on: November 05, 2012, 07:33:47 PM »

I recruited John Bolte, one of the local hard boys from The Edge.
I started my Mud-corruption of the 16 year-old John by taking him on his first West Pinns route.
It's funny how in the ten years since Stevi D the roles have changed... now I'm the leader.
It was 80 degrees in the parking lot at 9AM.




Ahhh Yess, the Resurrection Wall. I was initially drawn to it as training for a future installment of Mittens and I's Mega Linkups. And later realized one my heros, Rupert Kammerlander, did the FA. For scale Im the little yellow spec.




I'll skip the first 60 feet as much has been written here about the stuff that covers the rock.
Lets get to the business...
The Star Drivin' Belay.
Me giving a YOSAR approved rope management lesson.




John is sporting a Mull-Hawk, apparently its a substitute for a helmet. His dad Mike approved, but rest assured John wont forget his helmet again.




Entering the business of deciphering the first 11A crux.
You can't see the bolts, mentally they didn't really exist.




Mike Bolte is excellent at photographing birds. His lenses really come in handy for shooting climbing too.




The second 11A crux at the end of pitch 2




Proper technique for shooting photos while belaying.




And then I freed The Boot..... whoops wrong trip report.




John loves runouts, mostly to impress the girls, but I think he's trying to impress me too.  So I sent him up to link 3 and 4, which turned out to be a bad idea with a 60m rope.




Headwall glory




John offroute on some incredible rock at the top just before he belayed me off the dead manzanita bush, to avoid simulclimbing. We agreed in advance that this was a no fall operation. Trust was paramount.




Typical large Resurrection Wall knob, kind of like the Monolith with a lot more lichen.




A Rupert Kammerlander Special on the spectacular final 5.7 traverse. We're not going to replace that baby.




Everything seemed a lot prettier and excruciatingly vibrant when we reached the summit. Kind of like when John Muir summited Mt Ritter. or maybe it was just the scorching sun.  Either way we ate some M&M's and I proceeded to stumble down to the base, way more worked than after climbing The Nose. It turns out that Pinnacles is the real deal and can invoke pain and pleasure as well as any other local.




Not far off the trail a beautiful wall awaits, a sure experience in Licheneering that will cleanse you soul.


mynameismud

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #53 on: November 05, 2012, 07:48:42 PM »
pure envy ( from my perspective ).

really nice pics.
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Brad Young

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #54 on: November 05, 2012, 08:00:34 PM »
Great photos. It's funny too how the roles change over time isn't it? You seem to be doing a great job as the mentor. And good call on the helmet.

Atomizer

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #55 on: November 05, 2012, 08:26:33 PM »
Where is Mittens, is he seeing this?

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #56 on: February 24, 2013, 02:15:27 AM »
I was contacted by Ruppert Kammerlander's lover a few days ago. Today was his birthday. I plan on meeting with her when I return to hear stories, look through some old photos, and learn more about the man whose routes I've been obsessed with.

F4?

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #57 on: February 24, 2013, 04:10:59 AM »
Nice!
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Brad Young

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #58 on: February 24, 2013, 08:42:00 PM »
I was contacted by Ruppert Kammerlander's lover a few days ago. Today was his birthday. I plan on meeting with her when I return to hear stories, look through some old photos, and learn more about the man whose routes I've been obsessed with.

Ironic that I was talking to Joel about Rupert today. I lead Needle's Eye, the last of the Sew What Needles that I hadn't done. Joel couldn't believe how bold a route it was. I told him all I knew of Rupert's history, up to and including the hush puppy shoes (I woulda' been terrified in shoes like that on this route, ahmygodohmygod!!). At least one of the bolts on Sew What South is stamped with "RK," and Clint and I concluded that he must have done the FAs of at least Needle's Eye and Needle's Edge (they were never reported by him though).

JC w KC redux

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Re: Resurrection Wall
« Reply #59 on: February 24, 2013, 09:07:21 PM »
I lead Needle's Eye, the last of the Sew What Needles that I hadn't done.

You snuck in and did an onsight today?
Sounds like a hairy lead with only one bolt.
How many do you have left to tick off?
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