J.C. and Counting Up to Triple Digits

[Brad Young]

Nicely done. Good numbers.

I assume the Crux of The Knight's Watch was down by the low bolts at 5.8?

And I haven't been on Heaven's Gate since we put it up. Are all the bolts as "unrusty" as the one in your photo? That looked pretty rust free.

Gorgeous up here, although we've been forced to climb on good quality granite.

[F4?]

Bolt needs to be moved out to the arête.

Still a **** route.

[JC w KC redux]

Nicely done. Good numbers.

I assume the Crux of The Knight's Watch was down by the low bolts at 5.8?

And I haven't been on Heaven's Gate since we put it up. Are all the bolts as "unrusty" as the one in your photo? That looked pretty rust free.

Gracias.
Correct - toughest moves down low - KC concurs 5.8.
Bolts on HG look good.
Bolts 5 and 6 seem oddly located - tricky getting to 6 on lead but still doable unless you're a shrimpo.
Should get at least a star for position and exposure - nice line - induced a "gulp" response when moving past bolt 3 - shoulda anticipated the angled bend there with a long runner. Definitely the superior line for getting on top of lil' sis.

[Brad Young]

Bolts 5 and 6 seem oddly located - tricky getting to 6 on lead but still doable unless you're a shrimpo.

Yeah, that's what Bratton is saying - it wasn't oddly located when we placed the bolt, but, alas, the holds have changed (I know, SHOCKING).

Is that bolt number 6 in good shape? Is it worth moving it?

I may have to do that route again one of these days.

[JC w KC redux]

Yeah, that's what Bratton is saying - it wasn't oddly located when we placed the bolt, but, alas, the holds have changed (I know, SHOCKING).

Is that bolt number 6 in good shape? Is it worth moving it?

I may have to do that route again one of these days.

All the bolts appear to be in good shape. Kat asked me if I'd ever repeat the route and I certainly would. Once I was on the arête it didn't make sense to move left to get to those bolts - it was more fun staying on the arête. There are still a lot of holds on both sides. 5 is a bit of a reach and 6 is way out. I hung off my right hand - from a good hold on the right side of the arête and stepped onto a prominent knob with my left foot on the left side of the arête - stetching to my limit to make the clip for 6. I imagine that knob I had my left foot on may have been part of the stance. You guys probably stood on that with your right foot and maybe whatever you used for the left foot is gone. I was afraid Kat would have difficulty getting the draw off 6 but she made it look easy.

[F4?]

The route has changed.

It was fun yarding on the knob. But now you use the Arête.

We could add back the key hold back by getting a hold from the gym. The stud would have to be a glue in.

Just paint the hold tan.

Ask tom if he has an old hold.

Edited for more humor.

[JC w KC redux]

The route has changed.

It was fun yarding on the knob. But now you use the Arte more.

So the route has improved.

Was my yellow sling still there?

Musta been a yard ape that tore the knob off
Did you sling a knob with yellow? I didn't see anything.

[F4?]

Yellow sling was on top.

[JC w KC redux]

Yellow sling was on top.

Anchor has been replaced (see rebolt thread). Two bolts with chains. Lead bolt on the 5.6R has also been replaced. I led up the 5.2R to the 5.6R a while back and it was fun - not as exciting as the arête but pretty cool from an old school perspective and definitely worth doing.

[Brad Young]

Well, that proved decisively that I am not currently in shape for 5.11, granite cracks.

(But I'm closer after that burn than I was at this time yesterday.)

[mungeclimber]

random granite post?

[Brad Young]

Kinda related to the post above:

...Gorgeous up here, although we've been forced to climb on good quality granite.

And not worth its own thread. Have to keep it short here - the forearms are throbbing   

[JC w KC redux]

Have to keep it short here - the forearms are throbbing   

What's that? I can't hear you. My calves are screaming!

[clink]

the forearms are throbbing

Poor little granite man.





5.8 cracks would destroy me for starters.

[Aaron McDonald]

What about the right variation on the watchman JC?  No on site?

[clink]

Jc is waiting for me to do the right side

[clink]

What are the final moves rated?

[Aaron McDonald]

10a mantel. Kind of like Stupendous Man.

[Brad Young]

All right, all you "year-rounders" and early posters have me thinking about the imminent Pinns season. Even though it still seems early.

As we get rolling, could we get an update on J.C.'s numbers please? Feel free to include more than just yours Pinns information too. And, would you add in the amount of time you've been climbing? I'm prepared to be impressed again.

[JC w KC redux]

Onsights           redpoints
Pinnacles   218        8
Alabama Hills 85   
Lover's Leap 8   
SPH   63                5
Red Rocks   4   
Castle Rock 3        1
ttl   381   

Looks like the total done in good style is 395.
I did my first lead ever on 12-23-11 - at Pinns of course 2 years, 9 months and 2 days
Kind of embarrassed by how much I've slowed at Pinns but I had some set backs - physically and mentally.
On the plus side I got a bunch of new routes on the Pass - "shhhhhhhh...Pinns will hear you!"
and I got clink to stop bugging me about gettin' CRSPy in the mountains