J.C. and Counting Up to Triple Digits

[CruxLuv]

Whoosh, boink, wham

The sickening silence that followed was interminable and one which I hope to never have to endure again. 

Without being able to see, I was convinced I'd heard JC hit the dirt rather than KC hitting the wall.  I held my breath and gripped the rock until finally everyone said they thought they were okay.  Whew-  still gives me chills to think of it.

Luckily we were able to end the day on a better note!  Thanks again guys. 

[mynameismud]

Good to hear everyone is ok and that you got some good climbing in.

[JC w KC redux]

Good to hear everyone is ok and that you got some good climbing in.

thanks Mud!

[Brad Young]

While I am sure that Burtons Below is solid 5.9 (now), I don't think it was a sandbag at 5.8 when we put it up in the early 90s.

I hadn't been on it since the early 90s until two seasons ago, when I went there with Joel. He led it and thought it was 5.9. I was quite surprised that it felt solid 5.9 when I followed it. And 5.9 in two places (where J.C. fell and pulling over the top).

Do you suppose that holds may have broken off in 12+ years?   

I recall that the bolts that we placed were long and solid. The last bolt was in especially solid rock. I'm very glad the second one (in particular) was in good rock too.

[JC w KC redux]

While I am sure that Burtons Below is solid 5.9 (now), I don't think it was a sandbag at 5.8 when we put it up in the early 90s.

I hadn't been on it since the early 90s until two seasons ago, when I went there with Joel. He led it and thought it was 5.9. I was quite surprised that it felt solid 5.9 when I followed it. And 5.9 in two places (where J.C. fell and pulling over the top).

Do you suppose that holds may have broken off in 12+ years?   

I recall that the bolts that we placed were long and solid. The last bolt was in especially solid rock. I'm very glad the second one (in particular) was in good rock too.

Brad - it honestly looked like a fun route to us at the start and I knew you were one of the FA'ers. I've been on a few of your other routes that have been excellent and not underrated - e.g. Dead on the Shoulder, Sinbad and Scragglepuss.

My tr description may have been misleading - with regard to where I peeled off. I was one move below the second bolt. I modified the language. You are absolutely correct - the hardware was solid and so was the climb - I still can't figure out what happened. KC says no rocks came down - just me! The image of me whizzing by her may be forever in her memory. I don't want to give anything away regarding the holds for anyone looking to onsight. I'll give it another shot but probably with an equal weight belayer and definitely with a single locking biner on bolt one. There is a booty biner on it for now - one I retrieved from Mama Bear. KC says easy come easy go!

[squiddo]

I love that area on the HP. Flatiron is such a nice place to hang out, have some lunch and pull some mud. Burtons did indeed feel like 5.8+/5.9 no doubt. Need to get back up there as that 5.10+ on the back looks worthy of some hang time:-)

[JC w KC redux]

I love that area on the HP. Flatiron is such a nice place to hang out, have some lunch and pull some mud. Burtons did indeed feel like 5.8+/5.9 no doubt. Need to get back up there as that 5.10+ on the back looks worthy of some hang time:-)

Yes I was hoping to get several onsights as an almost anniversary thing since the Regular Route was my first lead ever. Unfortunately sometimes shit happens. No worries, I can still get some onsights there and redpoint Burton's.

The count is at 85 after this past weekend!

[mungeclimber]

Brad, I thought we corrected Scragglepuss in the FA Info doc?

[Brad Young]

Brad, I thought we corrected Scragglepuss in the FA Info doc?

Not clear what you're asking?

[JC w KC redux]

Brad, I thought we corrected Scragglepuss in the FA Info doc?

Scraggle shows you and Brad, Munge.

[mungeclimber]

Sorry, let me clarify, JC's post that the route was 'yours' reminded me about having a directional bolt at the top, and that we talked about it being a good thing. The FA list in the book shows Brad, Munge, David and Doug L. in that order.

I seem to recall it being me that did the final redpoint, in addition to some of the bolt lifting, and I think the top directional one, but that part is what I can't recall clearly.

The FA info doc that you sent me, shows it Munge, Brad, David and Doug L. (with track changes I made, to add the specific date, not just the month in 01).

Probably just got mixed up between the versions/transcription.

[JC w KC redux]

I'm up to 91! I know what I want to do for my 100th...

[Brad Young]

I'm up to 91! I know what I want to do for my 100th...

Spill the beans then. What route? Or... your own FA? You could call it "The Race to the Century."

[JC w KC redux]

Spill the beans then. What route? Or... your own FA? You could call it "The Race to the Century."

Maybe you and I could bolt that 5.5 arete along the bio trail for 101 and call it Turn of the Century.
I thought dedicating #100 to someone who has been an inspiration to my climbing would be appropriate.

[JC w KC redux]

I thought dedicating #100 to someone who has been an inspiration to my climbing would be appropriate.

I didn't mean to be evasive Brad - I just thought it might be more fun as a surprise...besides I still have to get 8 more onsights...and the way things have been going with my explorational/adventure route choices - that may take a while...unless I go out climbing with you again!

[JC w KC redux]

3 more onsights yesterday.
Beak Peak Regular Route, Beak Easy and Punctuation Pinnacle - my first X in the Pinns.
A condor flew over two different times while we were up there - maybe the same one.
We finished the day with Aaron onsighting Photographer's Delight. 

94 and counting.

We were gonna go back out today but KC's wrist is acting up again.

Forecast looks good for the coming weekend.

Aaron leading Photographer's Delight - ending the year on a 3 star classic!





JC on the eastern summit of Beak Peak

[Brad Young]

J.C. it sounds like you'll hit 100 before the end of January. And then you'll be working toward 100 in Joshua Tree and 100 on Sonora Pass Highway, and...

Well you get the picture. Fun isn't it?

I've never been able to climb very hard, but I've had great fun with such numbers.

I just finished one of my long New Years day traditions that lets me have this type of fun. On New Years day I recount all my routes by area and put the summary in my climbing journal. To "count" a route I must have led it in redpoint or better style, unless the climb only exists as a toprope, and then I must have climbed it with no hangs or falls (very few routes only exist as topropes; for example, my Idyllwild and Joshua Tree totals include one toprope route each). To count a multi-pitch route I must have led the crux or one of the cruxes.

I count the areas where I've done most of my climbing, omitting from my totals "once-in-a-great-while" places like Calaveras Domes.

Here are my total (lifetime) numbers as of this January 1st:

[JC w KC redux]

J.C. it sounds like you'll hit 100 before the end of January. And then you'll be working toward 100 in Joshua Tree and 100 on Sonora Pass Highway, and...

Wow that is fun to look at!
Thanks for sharing.
For me you can add:
Alabama Hills - 12
SPH - 8
Red Rocks - 4
JTree - 11

[Brad Young]

For me you can add:
Alabama Hills - 12
SPH - 8
Red Rocks - 4
JTree - 11

Nice. And all in what, a year and two or three weeks?

[MUCCI]

Very impressive list Brad, and Jc is on the way....