J.C. and Counting Up to Triple Digits

[mynameismud]

I think you will do fine.  You have been on much worse

[Brad Young]

I think you will do fine.  You have been on much worse

As much as you've climbed with me, and as much as you've climbed at Pinns, that comment is a huge help.

I hope to get it this season (that would have to be in April).

[mynameismud]

It is nothing like fly's on a Pile, which I have not done but have heard a bit about it.

[Aaron McDonald]

Leading The Embarrassment of Riches.

As recently as one year ago I had six "sub-5.10" routes to do that scared the crap out of me. Embarrassment is the last one I still have to do. (The ones I've already done were Flake Don't Break - done with Gavin, Icarus and Pigeon Crack, both done with Cobbledick, and Arch - Up the Center and Flies on a Pile, both done with J.C.)

I was just talking with Kelly about this route and it is deffinately on my short list. Kelly recommends bailing at the rap station and not topping out.

[Brad Young]

I was just talking with Kelly about this route and it is deffinately on my short list. Kelly recommends bailing at the rap station and not topping out.

Yep, he's told me that too. But have you done the route if you bail off early?

Keep in mind that he was very careful to make sure that I put the route in the book as going to the top, and not to the Melvin rap station - to the top is the "real" route.

I won't consider that I've done it if I don't do all of "it."

[mynameismud]

once your at the rap anchors you've done the meat of it.

[Brad Young]

once your at the rap anchors you've done the meat of it.

I've heard that.

And Aaron, what I wrote is how I look at it, my own sense of style if you will. Others may not feel the same way.

[waldo]

I figure I've done something in great style if I get back to the beer under my own steam.

[JC w KC redux]

Crux Luv took these shots of me on pitch 1 of Going the Wong Way

[CruxLuv]

Really fun watching you - great job!

[clink]

Silly wabbit, you went the wong way.


Nice pics.

[waldo]

Clink, would you happen to know if the "Wong" way finishes around the back up the regular 5th Sister route, or takes a hand traverse back onto the south side?  Big cams would protect, but it's got to be 5.8/5/9. I've done it a couple of times the first way, but not the second. 

[mungeclimber]

back side?  I thought it went like JC climbed it. Step up onto the shoulder (south facing arête) after topping the streak. Least that's what I recall.

[clink]

 Waldo and Munge,

 I wouldn't know much about the sister's backsides, the views on the front side are better in my opinion.

[JC w KC redux]

Clink, would you happen to know if the "Wong" way finishes around the back up the regular 5th Sister route, or takes a hand traverse back onto the south side?  Big cams would protect, but it's got to be 5.8/5/9. I've done it a couple of times the first way, but not the second. 

Waldo - you can see the pedestal and the "improbable" looking traverse/crack in the first of those 3 pics I posted. It is very deceiving/unlikely looking. I had 3 cams in the crack. That is definitely the way and I found it to be quite fun. It is much better protected than the 5.6X route - although I also found a way to "protect" that one to a small degree - enough to keep you from going "all the way". I would give the GTWW route a star.

 

[mynameismud]

Waldo and Munge,

 I wouldn't know much about the sister's backsides, the views on the front side are better in my opinion.

I thought that was in the other thread.

[JC w KC redux]

I thought that was in the other thread.

Nice one Dmud!

I added a redpoint today after Brad and I finished the bolts on a new 5.9.
I think it may have been 10a for KC - it's slabby and thin with stretched-out footwork and reachy.
Yer gonna dig what we did clink

I got the first bolt in on a new one that may go as an onsight.
I downclimbed from the bolt to preserve that possibility.

[JC w KC redux]

Banged out a few more over the weekend - Where's Dave, Both Watchman with Adam and Jury Duty with Brad. I'm going to count Topsy Turvy as a route done but not an onsight - even though it was mostly jumaring. I think the reverse Houdini and fact that I had to be lowered kind of negated that one - not to mention all the instruction from Brad that I evidently wasn't listening to!

[mungeclimber]

Oh snap, jugs!

Let's go aid some shiz!

[JC w KC redux]

Got The Knight's Watch finished today and also got a sweet onsight of Heaven's Gate.
It seemed a little warm when we got to the base of the first climb but there was a nice breeze up high to drill the last bolt and again when straddling the arête on Heaven's Gate. Turned out to be a great day

JC tops out on The Knight’s Watch after getting the last bolt in





KC tops out on The Knight’s Watch





JC craning his neck for a “holy crap!” moment while looking up the arête on Heaven’s Gate





KC tops out on Heaven’s Gate and getting the buh-geezus scared out of her